FiTech EFI system

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When you swap to the mopar dizzy do you leave the fitech set to vrcoil? If this is the case then then to fitech isnt seeing the msd dizzy for some reason

If you switch to fitech timing. The msd dizzy plugs into to wires from the back of the fitech. Purple and green ones then you need to switch couple of other wires. Unfortunately im not around my direction sheet right now.
 
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The handheld is set to VRCOIL which is what the instructions specify for the Fitech to control the timing. And the Fitech purple and green dizzy wires/plug do go to the MSD.
 
Husker said:
The handheld is set to VRCOIL which is what the instructions specify for the Fitech to control the timing. And the Fitech purple and green dizzy wires/plug do go to the MSD.
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Ok then you need to check the other wiring. Its wired a different way to run tach signal (engine timing) as opposed to fitech timing.

From the 6 pin you use the black wire not the blue one when running fitech timing
 
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Is there a way to set the the Fitch to 2500-2800 for initial start on a new build?
I have the 30002 go efi 600
 
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There is no way I'd start "cold" with an unknown EFI. I'd recomment you take a carb and conventional distributor and fire it up. Referring to your startup and I'm assuming cam break-in
 
Husker said:
The handheld is set to VRCOIL which is what the instructions specify for the Fitech to control the timing. And the Fitech purple and green dizzy wires/plug do go to the MSD.
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There is a black wire coming out of the FiTech that goes to the white (points trigger) on the MSD. this is what triggers your 6AL. Again the 2 pin purple and green wire connector from the FiTech connects directly to your distributor and the small black wire goes to the white points trigger wire coming out of your 6AL.
 
I've been having a hot start issue lately. This just showed up. When I crank it hot it wont fire unless I crack the throttle a bit. I didn't used to have to touch the throttle. I noticed after shut down all four bores are dribbling fuel until the pressure bleeds off, I guess. (4 leaking injectors)? I figure that it's flooding and needs a bit of throttle to start. Has anyone noticed fuel running after shut down. My IAC is set between 3 & 10. I probably have 4000 km on the system.
 
LJ67barracuda340 said:
I've been having a hot start issue lately. This just showed up. When I crank it hot it wont fire unless I crack the throttle a bit. I didn't used to have to touch the throttle. I noticed after shut down all four bores are dribbling fuel until the pressure bleeds off, I guess. (4 leaking injectors)? I figure that it's flooding and needs a bit of throttle to start. Has anyone noticed fuel running after shut down. My IAC is set between 3 & 10. I probably have 4000 km on the system.
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Try cracking the rear throttle plate adjustments open a bit. Worked for me.
 
I had my EFI unit 30002 all set up on my basically stock 318 that was freshly rebuilt (cam is essentially stock, maybe a notch above; it's built to be a driver). The unit ran fine through the winter when I drove it a total of about 15 miles to and from the various local shops to get aligned, vert top installed, etc. Then last month, it kept blowing one of it's internal fuses and the car wouldn't start, so I had to ship it back to FiTech for them to replace the ECU. I reinstalled it last week, and the car runs strangely. It idles fine for about 3 seconds, then falters, then idles fine, then falters, etc. I have a 15 second video clip with the sound here (along with a shot of my handheld), if anyone has time to listen to it and tell me what you think:



I have reset the learn, adjusted the IAC to roughly 3-6, and adjusted the AFR to 13.0 since I took this video, but nothing has helped. The problem seems to alleviate a bit (but not completely) once the engine warms to full operating temp, but while warming up and/or sitting at a stop light, this is what happens. With the weekend here, I'd like to play with it a bit, but of course, tech support isn't open again until Monday, so I'm hoping for some suggestions here. Anyone else have this issue or know what to try?

Also, fault codes 74 and 36 were showing when I took this vid two days ago, but since I have reset the learn, only code 74 shows, if this helps.
 
ChrisN68 said:
I had my EFI unit 30002 all set up on my basically stock 318 that was freshly rebuilt (cam is essentially stock, maybe a notch above; it's built to be a driver). The unit ran fine through the winter when I drove it a total of about 15 miles to and from the various local shops to get aligned, vert top installed, etc. Then last month, it kept blowing one of it's internal fuses and the car wouldn't start, so I had to ship it back to FiTech for them to replace the ECU. I reinstalled it last week, and the car runs strangely. It idles fine for about 3 seconds, then falters, then idles fine, then falters, etc. I have a 15 second video clip with the sound here (along with a shot of my handheld), if anyone has time to listen to it and tell me what you think:



I have reset the learn, adjusted the IAC to roughly 3-6, and adjusted the AFR to 13.0 since I took this video, but nothing has helped. The problem seems to alleviate a bit (but not completely) once the engine warms to full operating temp, but while warming up and/or sitting at a stop light, this is what happens. With the weekend here, I'd like to play with it a bit, but of course, tech support isn't open again until Monday, so I'm hoping for some suggestions here. Anyone else have this issue or know what to try?

Also, fault codes 74 and 36 were showing when I took this vid two days ago, but since I have reset the learn, only code 74 shows, if this helps.
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Run the data logger and you will see whats going on.
 
ChrisN68 said:
I had my EFI unit 30002 all set up on my basically stock 318 that was freshly rebuilt (cam is essentially stock, maybe a notch above; it's built to be a driver). The unit ran fine through the winter when I drove it a total of about 15 miles to and from the various local shops to get aligned, vert top installed, etc. Then last month, it kept blowing one of it's internal fuses and the car wouldn't start, so I had to ship it back to FiTech for them to replace the ECU. I reinstalled it last week, and the car runs strangely. It idles fine for about 3 seconds, then falters, then idles fine, then falters, etc. I have a 15 second video clip with the sound here (along with a shot of my handheld), if anyone has time to listen to it and tell me what you think:



I have reset the learn, adjusted the IAC to roughly 3-6, and adjusted the AFR to 13.0 since I took this video, but nothing has helped. The problem seems to alleviate a bit (but not completely) once the engine warms to full operating temp, but while warming up and/or sitting at a stop light, this is what happens. With the weekend here, I'd like to play with it a bit, but of course, tech support isn't open again until Monday, so I'm hoping for some suggestions here. Anyone else have this issue or know what to try?

Also, fault codes 74 and 36 were showing when I took this vid two days ago, but since I have reset the learn, only code 74 shows, if this helps.
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I'm wondering why a lot of people are running AFR's in the 13's at idle. That seems really rich especially with a stockish engine.. I run my 340 222/226 cam aluminum heads 10.2cr at 14.7. Idles good once I get it started (post #1514) and even drips water from the tailpipes. No black soot. Chris your AFR trim is reading way higher than mine does.
 
fklskv said:
They will also read your logged data file if need be.
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This is helpful, thank you. I won't get to call tech today, but it's good to know they are open on Saturdays. I'll run the data logger and see what's going on, and at least I'll have something to share with tech if they ask.

As for the AFR, by default it was in the mid 13's on my unit. I have not really played with adjusting that much yet, and given the above problem, I was hesitant to start moving numbers around. I do agree it seems rich, so maybe I'll try making some adjustments downward and see how it runs. Could that be causing the stumbling problem referenced above?
 
ChrisN68 said:
As for the AFR, by default it was in the mid 13's on my unit. I have not really played with adjusting that much yet, and given the above problem, I was hesitant to start moving numbers around. I do agree it seems rich, so maybe I'll try making some adjustments downward and see how it runs. Could that be causing the stumbling problem referenced above?
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To correct the above, I meant adjust upward to make it leaner. :)
 
ChrisN68. As recommended put your idle af at 14.7. See what that gets you. One change at time as you probably know. Check your plugs too make sure they are not fouled

Sounds like your iac steps are not happy and hunting.
 
Rule out the usual suspects first:
-Vacuum leaks? I had a lean pop through the throttle body once and it blew the big pcv cap off. Make sure everything is sealed up.
-Exhaust leaks before the O2 sensor?

And don't be afraid to reset everything and start over, focusing on the IACs first and only after the engine is above 170 which is the default break point.
 
LJ67barracuda340 said:
Tanks Inc. LS9904-KIT. $71 at Summit. Get the kit it comes with the fittings, I connect to AN6 after that. Mounted it right over the diff. (the engine side isn't connected yet in the pic) LarryView attachment 1715146917
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Those of you running this filter/regulator, why does the outlet fitting move in and out once pushed in? It doesn't seem right, and it allows it to move side to side. Should it be pushed in and secured somehow?
 
12E4B059-757A-4731-BC19-9ABDC2DCDC10.jpeg
You should have the barb that pushes into the push lock
 
This piece pushes into the outlet side, once it snaps in I can still slide it in and out a quarter inch or so, it's locked in though.

20180528_092823.jpg
 
All garter spring fittings do that.........move around. I don't really like them, tho "they seem to work"
 
Unable to Edit fans to disable. Any suggestions?
 
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You ca
matthon said:
Unable to Edit fans to disable. Any suggestions?
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You cant cycle the function on and off or it wont stay on off?

If it wont stay on off you have to turn the ignition off after you select “off” for it to take hold. The numbers need to go blank on the handheld for it to take effect.
 
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