FiTech EFI system

-
Seriously considering doing this in late June for my 520 hp 408 stroker. Tired of having it warm up for 5 minutes and mpg isn't the best depending on how hot or cold it is outside. Thinking about the following the Easy Street (P/N 30005 - FiTech Easy Street 600 HP Self-Tuning Fuel Injection Systems 30005). I don't need all of the special features, just basic fuel injection. I currently have a stock gas tank with a Holley Blue external fuel pump and an MSD Ready-to-Run distributor. I've been drooling over FiTech ever since they came out.

Ideally, I'd like to go to a Tanks Inc with a fuel pump in the tank, but I'm not sure I have the funds to do so.
 
Just bought a used system. Attempted to connect the USB port to computer, and got a timeout error. Is there anything about that hookup that is different than simply popping the memory card into the computer directly?
 
Just bought a used system. Attempted to connect the USB port to computer, and got a timeout error. Is there anything about that hookup that is different than simply popping the memory card into the computer directly?

What kind of memory card are you refering to?
 
What kind of memory card are you refering to?

The one in the controller...........the menu says "open mass storage" which "I guess" is what they are targeting. Also I installed the laptop software and the so called "K line adapter driver" but so far have seemingly not been able to connect (the laptop) to the ECU

The controller to ECU seems to work fine Bear in mind this is not in a car. It's all connected on the bench (no distributor) with a 14V bench supply
 
The Fitech handheld is what I think you are trying to hook the laptop to download data? The handheld just needs to plug into the usb with a cable. No 12v supply is needed. It picks power from the usb. If we are still not on the same page I apologize
 
The Fitech handheld is what I think you are trying to hook the laptop to download data? The handheld just needs to plug into the usb with a cable. No 12v supply is needed. It picks power from the usb. If we are still not on the same page I apologize

1 That is what I started..........only the handheld, only USB to my W7 laptop. Won't connect get "timeout" error

2...Found a post someone had posted the software, downloaded that and installed. Installed the "K-line" adapter driver after finding the note on the Yellow Bullet telling where to find

FiTech EFI Pro Software

Cannot get the handheld "alone" or connected to the ECU to connect to the computer, and I don't think the computer software is connecting with the ECU
 
My car is in hibernation. Tomorrow Ill go hunt up my handheld and see what happens when i plug it into my laptop. I used it only on my desktop and it was a matter of just plugging it in.

Does the screen light up at all for you when plugged in? Or can you charge a cell phone through the usb on the laptop (if you have one)?
 
Last edited:
My car is in hibernation. Tomorrow Ill go hunt up my handheld and see what happens when i plug it into my laptop. I used it only on my desktop and it was a matter of just plugging it in.

Does the screen light up at all for you when plugged in? Or can you charge a cell phone through the usb on the laptop (if you have one)?

Yep, powers up. With a laptop, W7 OS, and USB cable, thing lights, displays FItech logo, then goes to a menu says "Handheld Mode"

Three choices are:

OPEN USB Mass Storage

Change to K-Line Adapter

Offline Mode

The first is supposed to get the computer to open up into the handheld and does nothing except show a timeout error on the handheld

The second changes the screen to show "K-Line Adapter Mode" and only way I can get out of that is unplug the cable which powers it down. Does not do anything else

The last gets you into the menu you see when hooked to ECU, to change settings, etc
 
I tried to pm you 67dart273 but your inbox is full...so..

So I got my handheld, plugged it in, screen lit up and I hit "open usb mass storage" It says communicate. At that point the screen now says "usb storage mode". At this point, on your laptop, you click on the USB drive that show ups where your handheld is. USB drive:(e) or f wherever it is. You should then see data. I tried it on my wifes laptop (don't tell her) it worked and has that laptop has never seen the Fitech. My desktop same thing, but that's where I have the Fi Cal pro software so I was sure that would work

If you can't get to this point try to download from another USB device. Camera maybe and see if that will work. Seems like that's where you issue is.
 
Nothing wrong with my computer. I use the USB ports all the time with various devices, DVD, thumb drives, I have even used a floppy. No idea at this point. I may not actually NEED it if all it does is turn the thing into a card reader. One reason is of course trying to get the laptop software to connect, the other is to see if there is anything stored in the handheld that is not on the card
 
If you record to the handheld you can only see the logged info if you download it to a spreadsheet. All the functions recorded by the second are there to look at. No guessing. Did you record any info to the handheld? Sorry if Im stating the obvious here

It needs to work if FiTech puts out and update.

I would try and hook the handheld to another computer and see what happens.
 
Ok problem "sort of solved." Just got back from........the thrift stores of course......with another handful of various cables LMAO

Turns out the FItech handheld did not like that particular cable. It works fine with my phone and a camera, but won't with the Fitech

Both the thrift store cables work fine

..........and.........after all that........all that it accesses is the plug in card. I'll try later on and see if the software hooks, but no reason why not at this point
 
Also make sure you twist the wires coming from your distributor to the throttle body and as an added measure slide braided steel mesh over it and ground the one end of the mesh.
 
Also make sure you twist the wires coming from your distributor to the throttle body and as an added measure slide braided steel mesh over it and ground the one end of the mesh.
Funny you say that. I had a knock off dizzy in my car and I upgraded to msd. Now my tach jumps up and down randomly. I did the twisted wire, separated the wires to the box added the grounded shield wire and still not fixed.

Calls to msd results in someone talking down to you. No help whatsoever. Ok Msd expert tell me why the knock off works fine. No answer.

just wondering if the fitech is seeing that same tach signal
 
Funny you say that. I had a knock off dizzy in my car and I upgraded to msd. Now my tach jumps up and down randomly. I did the twisted wire, separated the wires to the box added the grounded shield wire and still not fixed.
Yes they both work the same way. I thought that the noise was coming in on the tach wire but then after all of the shielding and wire twisting I still had a RPM Nose Fault. I then (because of my electronics background) figured that it must be coming in on 12 volt supply wire so I made that filter. The problem hasn't returned. It's easy to make.

Calls to msd results in someone talking down to you. No help whatsoever. Ok Msd expert tell me why the knock off works fine. No answer.

just wondering if the fitech is seeing that same tach signal
 
Funny you say that. I had a knock off dizzy in my car and I upgraded to msd. Now my tach jumps up and down randomly. I did the twisted wire, separated the wires to the box added the grounded shield wire and still not fixed.

Calls to msd results in someone talking down to you. No help whatsoever. Ok Msd expert tell me why the knock off works fine. No answer.

just wondering if the fitech is seeing that same tach signal
Yes they work in the same manner. They both use a magnetic pickup distributor to trigger the ignition timing. After several attempts at shielding and twisting the wires with no success I decided (because of my electronics background that the noise must be coming in on the 12 volt supply line. So I made the filter, it's easy to make with the total cost being only a few dollars.
 
What type of filter?

As I read and learn more about computer controlled systems I see that resistor plugs should be used in these applications. Ill be switching to resistor plugs.
 
Last edited:
What type of filter?

As I read and learn more about computer controlled systems I see that resistor plugs should be used in these applications. Ill be switching to resistor plugs.
I agree on the resistor plugs any radiation of EMI can cause issues with the throttle body trigger signal. My filter is for any noise that might be coming in on the 12 volt supply line (from the alternator brushes etc). It helped eliminate the noise issues with my FitFiT.
 
2-Step Control Spark Cut Feature
-----------------------------
Just installed this new update on my 1200PA. There is absolutely no Fitech documentation on how this works. But basically you install the new firmware (T198i) on the ECU, new software on the handheld. Wire a 12v switch/button to the AC lead on the 4 pin extra connector that comes on the Power Adder models to trigger the spark cut. I've only briefly tested it with a temp switch and it seems to work, cutting spark and keeping the RPM down.
IMG_7906.JPG
IMG_7907.JPG
 
2-Step Control Spark Cut Feature
-----------------------------
Just installed this new update on my 1200PA. There is absolutely no Fitech documentation on how this works. But basically you install the new firmware (T198i) on the ECU, new software on the handheld. Wire a 12v switch/button to the AC lead on the 4 pin extra connector that comes on the Power Adder models to trigger the spark cut. I've only briefly tested it with a temp switch and it seems to work, cutting spark and keeping the RPM down.
View attachment 1715154208 View attachment 1715154210

OOOooo. Thats getting my pulse up! Typical FiTech though. Turn over rocks to find info
Thanks Subcom!!
 
2-Step Control Spark Cut Feature
-----------------------------
Just installed this new update on my 1200PA. There is absolutely no Fitech documentation on how this works. But basically you install the new firmware (T198i) on the ECU, new software on the handheld. Wire a 12v switch/button to the AC lead on the 4 pin extra connector that comes on the Power Adder models to trigger the spark cut. I've only briefly tested it with a temp switch and it seems to work, cutting spark and keeping the RPM down.
View attachment 1715154208 View attachment 1715154210
Nice feature, I have a 600 PA and as far as I know that 2 step feature isn't there. I am not using a supercharger this time around so I just removed the plug from the throttle body in preparation for my new NA 418 stroker. By the way did yours start right up? Did you get any "RPM Noise errors?
 
Nice feature, I have a 600 PA and as far as I know that 2 step feature isn't there. I am not using a supercharger this time around so I just removed the plug from the throttle body in preparation for my new NA 418 stroker. By the way did yours start right up? Did you get any "RPM Noise errors?
You may need the latest update for your particular model. I gather there isn't a universal firmware, but rather specific to your model.
RPM Noise- yes, I used to get it and then I insulated everything with that Velcro backed shielding/insulation wrap. No more RPM noise related fault codes.
 
-
Back
Top