FiTech EFI system

[superchargeddrt]

You may need the latest update for your particular model. I gather there isn't a universal firmware, but rather specific to your model.
RPM Noise- yes, I used to get it and then I insulated everything with that Velcro backed shielding/insulation wrap. No more RPM noise related fault codes.

Good job, I have to get some of the Velcro shielding this time around. I used aluminum foil encased in black woven wire casing last time, it was effective but not as pretty as I would have liked. Keep us informed and good luck.

 

[Coyote Jack]

You may need the latest update for your particular model. I gather there isn't a universal firmware, but rather specific to your model.
RPM Noise- yes, I used to get it and then I insulated everything with that Velcro backed shielding/insulation wrap. No more RPM noise related fault codes.

Where did you get the Velcro shielding from. I see some on Ebay but I'm not sure it's the right stuff. How much did you use?

Jack

 

[subcom]

Where did you get the Velcro shielding from. I see some on Ebay but I'm not sure it's the right stuff. How much did you use?

Jack

I used the Ebay stuff. I think this one. Metallic Heat Shield Sleeve Insulated Wire Hose Cover Wrap Loom Tube 3/4" 6 Ft | eBay

I covered as much as possible. The entire length of the O2 lead cable, and the ignition cable going to my distributor I wrapped with that HVAC tape and then wrapped with wire loom. Not sure what ultimately cured the error code ills but after I wrapped those two items the fault codes went away.

 

[Coyote Jack]

Thanks, got some ordered.

Jack

 

[SalC]

May have found the answer to the 90 deg connectors many have been requesting of FiTech. Found these on Digikey's website and ordered a few. The power connector is a bit longer and sticks out but it's better than original for those seeking a 90 deg solution...

 

[matthon]

Those look perfect, do you have the Digi-key part numbers for those?

 

[SalC]

Those look perfect, do you have the Digi-key part numbers for those?

10-02132 Tensility International Corp | Cable Assemblies | DigiKey

CA-2196 Tensility International Corp | Cable Assemblies | DigiKey

 

[MuuMuu101]

I've got the money to make a jump on a Fitech in June, but I have some questions before I make the leap. This is what I got or am planning on getting. I even have a friend who is willing to give me a helping hand.

Engine:
408 Stroker with Forged internals. Camshaft is a custom hydraulic roller with either a 238/242 or a 242/246 (cam specs were lost). Milodon road race pan. Engine Quest heads ported by IMM. Edelbrock LD4B intake that's port matched to the Engine Quest heads. 1-inch carb spacer. MSD Ready-to-Run Distributor. 34 degrees of total timing. Not sure how much vacuum but I don't think it's much because I couldn't run the vacuum advance on my MSD distributor. Engine made 523 hp and 522 ft-lbs of torque on the engine dyno.

My first question is, for a Fitech Fuel Injection system, should I switch out my LD4B for my Mopar M1 single plane intake? I will mostly be doing street/highway cruising but will autocross and road race the car. I know single plane intakes, generally, is meant for higher rpm operations, but I've heard of some people having trouble with the TBI fuel injections and dual plane intakes. Can the LD4B be a little too restrictive for my engine and do you think my 408 stroker would be more happy/forgiving with the M1 intake? A Fitech Rep told me that if I'm running 5-6" of vacuum I may need a laptop tune and that a single plane intake "may be more forgiving." I may be able to run the 1" spacer with the M1 intake.

My next set of questions is with regards to the parts I was planning on purchasing:
Fitech MeanStreet (800HP)
Tanks Inc EFI Tank
JakeFab Fuel Puck
Aeromotive 11540 In-Tank Fuel Pump (340gph)
Tanks Inc Sending Unit

Am I missing any other parts I need to get? What do you guys recommend for fuel lines?

 

[famous bob]

What type of filter?

As I read and learn more about computer controlled systems I see that resistor plugs should be used in these applications. Ill be switching to resistor plugs.

---------------------------------------------------^^^^^^^^---------------------------------------------

I have just figured this out to, but my non resistor plugs are working fine ! (fast 2.0 )

 

[Frank Mopar]

---------------------------------------------------^^^^^^^^---------------------------------------------

I have just figured this out to, but my non resistor plugs are working fine ! (fast 2.0 )

So here is my update. When I switched to aluminum heads I forgot I put resistor plugs in so thats not my problem. DARN IT!!

 

[subcom]

I've got the money to make a jump on a Fitech in June, but I have some questions before I make the leap. This is what I got or am planning on getting. I even have a friend who is willing to give me a helping hand.

Engine:
408 Stroker with Forged internals. Camshaft is a custom hydraulic roller with either a 238/242 or a 242/246 (cam specs were lost). Milodon road race pan. Engine Quest heads ported by IMM. Edelbrock LD4B intake that's port matched to the Engine Quest heads. 1-inch carb spacer. MSD Ready-to-Run Distributor. 34 degrees of total timing. Not sure how much vacuum but I don't think it's much because I couldn't run the vacuum advance on my MSD distributor. Engine made 523 hp and 522 ft-lbs of torque on the engine dyno.

My first question is, for a Fitech Fuel Injection system, should I switch out my LD4B for my Mopar M1 single plane intake? I will mostly be doing street/highway cruising but will autocross and road race the car. I know single plane intakes, generally, is meant for higher rpm operations, but I've heard of some people having trouble with the TBI fuel injections and dual plane intakes. Can the LD4B be a little too restrictive for my engine and do you think my 408 stroker would be more happy/forgiving with the M1 intake? A Fitech Rep told me that if I'm running 5-6" of vacuum I may need a laptop tune and that a single plane intake "may be more forgiving." I may be able to run the 1" spacer with the M1 intake.

My next set of questions is with regards to the parts I was planning on purchasing:
Fitech MeanStreet (800HP)
Tanks Inc EFI Tank
JakeFab Fuel Puck
Aeromotive 11540 In-Tank Fuel Pump (340gph)
Tanks Inc Sending Unit

Am I missing any other parts I need to get? What do you guys recommend for fuel lines?

I run the dual plane RPM Air Gap on my 1200PA with a single Turbo. My motor is no where near as powerful as yours N/A but I think the dual plane works fine with the Fitech and I find mine has very streetable manners. I will be switching to a single plane Victor 340 that I have on the shelf, but that's just to see if it improves at the track (1/8 mile). Not sure if it will hurt street manners or not.

On your shopping list, make sure you run plenty of feed and return line. I have 1/2" (8an) feed and return on mine. They both terminate on an Aeromotive regulator. Good luck with the project.

 

[MuuMuu101]

I run the dual plane RPM Air Gap on my 1200PA with a single Turbo. My motor is no where near as powerful as yours N/A but I think the dual plane works fine with the Fitech and I find mine has very streetable manners. I will be switching to a single plane Victor 340 that I have on the shelf, but that's just to see if it improves at the track (1/8 mile). Not sure if it will hurt street manners or not.

On your shopping list, make sure you run plenty of feed and return line. I have 1/2" (8an) feed and return on mine. They both terminate on an Aeromotive regulator. Good luck with the project.

Thank you for your response. Yeah, I'm still on the fence about the intake swap. Do you have a link of some of the line you use?

 

[subcom]

Thank you for your response. Yeah, I'm still on the fence about the intake swap. Do you have a link of some of the line you use?

I originally did both feed and return with 1/2" Aluminum line and AN fittings from Speedway.

Aluminum Fuel Line, 1/2 Inch O.D.

Fitech says not to use aluminum line, but the Speedway stuff has a thick wall and can handle up to 250psi. I recently replaced my feed line with ptfe stainless braided 8an 'cause I needed to re-position my fuel pump nearer my sump but I still have the aluminum return line.

 

[MuuMuu101]

I originally did both feed and return with 1/2" Aluminum line and AN fittings from Speedway.

Aluminum Fuel Line, 1/2 Inch O.D.

Fitech says not to use aluminum line, but the Speedway stuff has a thick wall and can handle up to 250psi. I recently replaced my feed line with ptfe stainless braided 8an 'cause I needed to re-position my fuel pump nearer my sump but I still have the aluminum return line.

I'm thinking I'll leave the intake alone when I first start. That way I won't have to fiddle with timing or anything.

Cool! Thanks for the link.

 

[subcom]

I'm thinking I'll leave the intake alone when I first start. That way I won't have to fiddle with timing or anything.

Cool! Thanks for the link.

Yep, I would do the same. I had a ready to run distro on mine also and was really happy with it. I eventually went with a msd knock-off distro that I now control from the fitech. Good luck!

 

[goldduster318]

No need for 1/2" line with EFI until you get into the 650-700hp range. Mine made 470hp and I have 3/8 feed and return and there is no issue. Look at a factory production car, I can only think of the Hellcats having 1/2" line OE.

I wouldn't use aluminum line on a street car since it is much easier to damage. Steel, or if that's too hard to bend, you can just do braided extruded teflon (aeroquip is the best). I used a reproduction 3/8" feed line for the feed and made my own section of return (and used the aeroquip braided teflon on the remaining sections where flex is needed). I doubt I'll ever have to mess with any of it.

Also, you can pull the intake with the distributor in, or you can just mark it and stick it back right where it was, which is easy because of the screwdriver tip:

 

[wireweld]

I am using the rpm dual plane on a 416 with 1200 pa. Dynoed at 600 hp and 585 tq. 8 AN feed and 6 AN return, Ptfe hose.

 

[famous bob]

No need for 1/2" line with EFI until you get into the 650-700hp range. Mine made 470hp and I have 3/8 feed and return and there is no issue. Look at a factory production car, I can only think of the Hellcats having 1/2" line OE.

I wouldn't use aluminum line on a street car since it is much easier to damage. Steel, or if that's too hard to bend, you can just do braided extruded teflon (aeroquip is the best). I used a reproduction 3/8" feed line for the feed and made my own section of return (and used the aeroquip braided teflon on the remaining sections where flex is needed). I doubt I'll ever have to mess with any of it.

View attachment 1715165341

Also, you can pull the intake with the distributor in, or you can just mark it and stick it back right where it was, which is easy because of the screwdriver tip:
View attachment 1715165342

I elected to run my lines inside the frame rail and thru the frame connectors, instead of going thru the tire well like the pic above. It was a *****, cause I didn`t plan it that way to start with, wish I had.

 

[Husker]

I have a 1971 360/automatic with a GoEFI 4 600hp, non-power adder. I went with the Tanks Inc fuel injection tank and Walbro in tank pump (255lph), 3/8 -6AN for supply and full return to tank. I have the Fitech white/ignition wire connected to the electric choke wire in the original harness. It runs well (much better than 750 Holley carburetor!) with the stock/original electronic ignition – with an Accel coil. I now want to make the switch for the Fitech to control the timing. I have a MSD 2-wire (part 8534 with mechanical advance locked out), MSD adjustable rotor, and MSD 8.5 plug wires. Now for the questions I have after reading the 60 previous pages of this post… All stem from the fact that replacing the dizzy requires ‘something’ to be the brains. It could be a 6AL, a ready-to-run, or in this case the Fietch, but I haven’t found clear instructions for the stock-to-Fitech conversion.

1) The Fitech has the leads and connector to go into the new MSD dizzy – what do I do with the original dizzy wires that came from the ECU (orange box)?

2) What do I do with the ballast wires (start/brown and run/blue)? Some say splice these wires together to go to the coil+, but other say don’t or you will fry the stock coil. Since I have the Accel coil will a splice cause the coil to burnup? I need 12v power to the coil+ at least during startup. Also these wires go to and from the bulkhead – implications of splicing?

3) What do I do with the voltage regulator. It has one wire from the alternator and the other to the blue/run wire of the ballast.

4) What do I do with the ECU? Part of the answer will come from #1 above, but the ECU also has a wire to the coil-, a wire from the alternator, and a wire to the blue/run side of the ballast.

I prefer to retain the existing wiring harness (as much as possible) and splice/jump wires as opposed to removing completely.

I appreciate your time…

 

[67Dart273]

1) The Fitech has the leads and connector to go into the new MSD dizzy – what do I do with the original dizzy wires that came from the ECU (orange box)?

Unplug and "safe" them off or unwrap the harness and trace them back and pull them out of the harness. If it's a five wire, you will have "the fifth" wire going to one terminal on the 4 pin ballast.

You will have two wires for the distributor pickup

One will go direct from the ECU to the coil NEG

The remaining will branch into the "blue" "ignition run" same point as your choke

 

[67Dart273]

2) What do I do with the ballast wires (start/brown and run/blue)? Some say splice these wires together to go to the coil+, but other say don’t or you will fry the stock coil. Since I have the Accel coil will a splice cause the coil to burnup? I need 12v power to the coil+ at least during startup. Also these wires go to and from the bulkhead – implications of splicing?

Depends on what ignition you are running. That is, coil + whatever ignition box.

If you have a GM HEI module, or other "coil negative switch" type ignition, you don't need a ballast for "some." EG I run a stock Mopar coil with a GM HEI and no ballast. So, "it depends."

MSD is completely different. They are a CD ignition, and do not run current through the coil. So, no ballast

 

[67Dart273]

3) What do I do with the voltage regulator. It has one wire from the alternator and the other to the blue/run wire of the ballast.

It must remain connected. The blue is what powers the VR and the voltage sensing to tell it how much to output

 

[Husker]

Thank you x3.

1) dead-end the original 2-wire plug that came from the original ECU to the original dizzy - easy
2) regarding the ignition.... If I go with the GM HEI, I remove the ECU and the ballast -correct? I think the coil - and + are easy enough - they are the "B" and "C" terminals of the HEI. But the HEI terminals "W" and "B" that would typically go to the dizzy now go where? It sounds like you have a similar HEI setup - just with the stock dizzy instead of the MSD 2-wire I have.
3) original Alternator voltage regulator must remain connected. One wire to alternator, the other is for power and presently goes to the ballast. If the ballast is removed, does the power come from the HEI "B" which also goes to the coil+?

 

[dusted]

This is the -6 and -8 line I use on my duster and the truck. It’s from a hydraulic shop and I use a combination of AN and pushlock fittings. Stuff is cheap. Like $1.85 foot

 

[Husker]

So I stabbed in the new MSD and connected it to the Fitech leaving all other wiring connected - alternator voltage regulator, ECU, coil, and ballast. Changed the Fitech to VRCoil for the ignition. Car won't start... No signal to the coil. For giggles, I plugged the original dizzy wires to the original Mopar and just set the dizzy on top of the engine. It fires right up! I time it with a timing light to 10 advance at idle, play with handheld, and let it idle and rev for 10 min, and it sounds great. Disconnect the original dizzy and the car dies - no spark from the coil to the MSD.

So it appears I need to ask some of my same questions again...

1) What do I do with the original dizzy wires that came from the ECU (orange box)? It appears I cannot just "safely" end them.

2) What do I do with the ballast wires (start/brown and run/blue)? It seems to run fine(?) with the ballast as is, but I still don't understand the GM HEI discussion above as I didn't think the Fitech could run the timing with the HEI module. Will toss this if I go with the 6al.

3) What do I do with the voltage regulator. It has one wire from the alternator and the other to the blue/run wire of the ballast. If I go with a 6al and remove the ballast, does the blue connect to the small red (switched ignition) of the 6al?

4) What do I do with the ECU? Thinking of tossing it in favor of a 6al...