FiTech EFI system

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Per instructions for initial setup: go to Fan 1 Setup, 03 Option Fan1, change to Disable.
I select Edit and nothing, can't change it to Disable
 
Got it, Edit button doesn't do it, must use joystick
 
Started a few days ago, ran very well, last night disconnected battery to change motor mount, ground wire at mount, reconnected and will not start. Figured I should have checked everything before I tried to start, so I went back into the initial set-up menu and went through the entire process again. Everything was the same and correct except Fan1 was enabled, so I disabled (no electric fan), send to ecu. Turned key on/off a few times, primed pump, waited for injectors to click-
Still will not start.
After several attempts, checking everything, left it alone last night and placed battery on charger.
Reconnected battery this morning, went through and checked everything again, no start.
In tank pump working, fuel injectors clicking, tach signal, have spark, no error codes (I forget what they are called exactly).

It cranks fine, fires intermittently, but does not run.

I rewired this entire car, checked and rechecked everything, white wire has power at ignition and run, no timing control, ready to run, no fans, new fuse box, almost all the wiring is a straight shot through the old bulkhead connector, I only left the wiper motor and headlight wiring stock, relays for headlights, everything is grounded to a common hub, then grounded to battery, then to motor, then to body, ground wire directly to FiTech mounting stud as well.

Was going to adjust the IAC next as it started with one quick shot of the starter when warm, but cold it took a little more effort, but now I can't even get it started - and last night the car was still warm from driving it after I changed the motor mount!

Anyone have any ideas?

Could trying to start it with Fan1 enabled messed something up?
Should I clear everything and start over? Not sure how to do that yet.
 
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matthon said:
Started a few days ago, ran very well, last night disconnected battery to change motor mount, ground wire at mount, reconnected and will not start. Figured I should have checked everything before I tried to start, so I went back into the initial set-up menu and went through the entire process again. Everything was the same and correct except Fan1 was enabled, so I disabled (no electric fan), send to ecu. Turned key on/off a few times, primed pump, waited for injectors to click-
Still will not start.
After several attempts, checking everything, left it alone last night and placed battery on charger.
Reconnected battery this morning, went through and checked everything again, no start.
In tank pump working, fuel injectors clicking, tach signal, have spark, no error codes (I forget what they are called exactly).

It cranks fine, fires intermittently, but does not run.

I rewired this entire car, checked and rechecked everything, white wire has power at ignition and run, no timing control, ready to run, no fans, new fuse box, almost all the wiring is a straight shot through the old bulkhead connector, I only left the wiper motor and headlight wiring stock, relays for headlights, everything is grounded to a common hub, then grounded to battery, then to motor, then to body, ground wire directly to FiTech mounting stud as well.

Was going to adjust the IAC next as it started with one quick shot of the starter when warm, but cold it took a little more effort, but now I can't even get it started - and last night the car was still warm from driving it after I changed the motor mount!

Anyone have any ideas?

Could trying to start it with Fan1 enabled messed something up?
Should I clear everything and start over? Not sure how to do that yet.
Click to expand...

I had a problem that the ign would default back to vrcoil. Is it set on tach if running engine timing? You use the joyStick to cycle that function
 
I always had to cycle my ign 3x on cold start. Are you losing power from a compromised wire like as soon as the car fires the power drops out?

Do you see the tach rpms on the handheld?
 
I tried turning the key on and off multiple times, and tried cranking multiple times. Each time before I turned it to start, I would let the fuel pump cycle on/off and wait for the injectors to click. When cranking it almost fires, sometimes multiple times one after the other, but does not start. If it were carburetors and not efi, I would squirt some fuel into it, that kind of almost start. There is fuel initially at start, pulled air cleaners to check, and I squirted a small amount of fuel into it just to make sure, made no difference.
Unable to locate any compromised wire, I only jacked the motor up a few inches to change the mounts, did not stretch any wires out or crush- checked them after it wouldn't start. Checked the coil wires as well and connections, no issues found there.
No bulkhead power connector or old fuse box, power directly from new modern fuse box, new charge wire from alternator. Power hub next to battery so everything isn't connected to the battery terminal.
Rpms on handheld, coil new, I know new electrical parts can fail, but it sparks.
For what it's worth, whenever I disconnected/connected the battery there were no sparks, I would attribute that to no more crappy wiring and poor grounds, all fuses good.

I started it last night w/o issue, disconnected battery, changed the rubber motor mounts out for polys, took me no time, motor still warm even though it wasn't running very long. Completely stumped.
 
fklskv said:
I always had to cycle my ign 3x on cold start. Are you losing power from a compromised wire like as soon as the car fires the power drops out?

Do you see the tach rpms on the handheld?
Click to expand...
When you crank it over, and it momentarily runs, does it show tach on the handheld? sounds like it fires, then loses tach signal.
 
Called FiTech, went through a few q&a's, suggested a reboot. I am not with the car now, asked me to call back, I asked if he could tell me so I can write it down (as I have a job), he e-mailed it to me. So in under 5 minutes I called and received the procedure via e-mail - nice!
I'll triple check everything tonight, reboot, and redo the initial set up procedure.
 
Johnny Mac said:
When you crank it over, and it momentarily runs, does it show tach on the handheld? sounds like it fires, then loses tach signal.
Click to expand...

I'll check it again later when I get back home. It was showing tach, both in the selection and the actual tach rpm reading.
To be clear, it doesn't run then shut off, it fires intermittently, sometimes in succession.
I'll make sure to take note of the rpms on the handheld and when/if it shows a value.
 
Reset it, sounded like it was going to go, backfired thru the exhaust, started checking everything, pulled the plugs, wet with gas but not bad, then, well see pic.
Accel discontinued the cap/rotor, have 1 spare left and a new MSD. This broke after I shut it off then went to start it 30 minutes later.

20180601_175149.jpg
 
2 of the contacts in the cap can turn, the mold doesn't cover them, no loose black plastic pieces found, trouble waiting to happen

20180601_182128.jpg
 
No, I believe I moved the wires slightly to get the front plug out, which may have been enough to turn one of the wires on the cap, since nothing was preventing it from spinning
 
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Is there a way to calculate how much vacuum s/b present at the throttle body ports?
I hooked up my factory Performance Indicator gauge and it doesn't work, it did with the carbs. I pulled the hose off and the idle didn't change, put my finger over the port and it doesn't feel like it's pulling a vacuum at all. I remember when I installed there seemed to be some distance between the manifold opening and the port, but there was a long channel in the bottom of the throttle body.
Now I'm thinking my vacuum advance would suffer from the same issue.
I'll check it with a gauge when I get home, but I'm thinking if I pull the throttle body, the gasket will show the port channels, and I can drill holes down thru the intake into the plenum. It is a tunnel ram and there is enough material there. At idle it's sucking gobs of air thru the air cleaners.
I just want to sort this out before I start fine tuning, as I discovered already, cover the basics first.
 
Ah, directions.
It appears I have the Performance Indicator connected to the rear top ported nipple, doesn't work there.
There is an un-ported nipple in the rear as well, and my distributor is connected to the front nipple which appears to be un-ported as well.
The instructions state to use the rear ported nipple for distributor advance.
I have read that for the distributor, use ported for an emissions controlled engine, and un-ported for a non-emissions controlled engine.

Is this correct?
Which should the Performance Indicator be connected to?
 
All,

Has any one with the FCC modded it to delete the needle valve and floats and converted it to a straight up return system? If so how has the FCC and the FiTech handled the mod?

Thanks,
Marion
 
I finally got my 1200 PA system up and running on top of my 6-71. I have only driven about 10 miles so far but all looks good so far. I found the throttle response was to touchy so I made a few adjustments to my linkage to slow down the opening rate and now it is much easier to drive. Speaking of throttle response, all I can say is WOW. This thing is now acting like I always wanted it to. Scary fast. I will post a few pics after the rain stops here.

Jack
 
Here are the pics I was talking about. I took these today after a 20 to 25 mile cruise that was uneventful other than me getting on it a couple of times.

Jack

RUNNING001.JPG


RUNNING002.JPG


RUNNING003.JPG


RUNNING004.JPG
 
Coyote Jack said:
I finally got my 1200 PA system up and running on top of my 6-71. I have only driven about 10 miles so far but all looks good so far. I found the throttle response was to touchy so I made a few adjustments to my linkage to slow down the opening rate and now it is much easier to drive. Speaking of throttle response, all I can say is WOW. This thing is now acting like I always wanted it to. Scary fast. I will post a few pics after the rain stops here.

Jack
Click to expand...

Nice! And like the pics, thanks. You have me sold.
 
Did you make that throttle linkage, or buy it?
Does it use the stock throttle cable?
I have the same on a tunnel ram, the current setup is hurting, and l'm having difficulty finding inline linkage that is good quality.
 
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