FiTech EFI system

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rednesss said:
Would it be better to run these throttle bodies on a regular intake instead of an Air Gap? The only reason I put an Air Gap on was for the carburetor to try to stay cooler. That's not really such an issue with TBI with pressurized fuel at 58 psi going to it.
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I was thinking the same thing...
 
rednesss said:
Would it be better to run these throttle bodies on a regular intake instead of an Air Gap? The only reason I put an Air Gap on was for the carburetor to try to stay cooler. That's not really such an issue with TBI with pressurized fuel at 58 psi going to it. I'm just wondering if the longer runners and intake volume is good or bad.
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While you won't really have hot start fuel boiling issues, you will also not have to worry about heating it up with a TBI either.

Since it's a TBI, the runners and intake volume would be like a carb as it's still a wet-runner intake. It's likely a bit better atomized than with a carb, especially cold, but seriously, the air gap is a good manifold. Hughes even makes one for the magnum engines with port EFI.
 
With the TBI its going to be exactly like a carb, single plane vs dual plane, long or short runners etc.With MPFI its a different story, runner length is what builds torque instead of duel plane.

Also, a cool manifold is better for both carb and injection, thats why they have an air temp sensor in intake runner...cooler air is denser air.
 
rednesss said:
Or single plane vs. dual plenum?
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Changing the manifold will have the same affect on power as it did when you had the carb on it. All you did was swap your carb for a electronically controlled fuel atomizer. I'd keep the Air-gap. Test after test has proven it to be one of the best street/strip intakes made
 
Finally got mine so I could try it. Lots of bumps in the road but mostly my own doing in trying to keep it a clean install plus ended up having a bad mechanical fuel pump that took me a bit to track down so went back electric pump.
I can't seem to get mine to idle with out working the throttle and seems to be running fairly rich. I am running a pretty big street/strip solid mechanical cam (.598/.620). I will give them a call on Monday to see if they can help me out.
 
63Belvedere said:
Finally got mine so I could try it. Lots of bumps in the road but mostly my own doing in trying to keep it a clean install plus ended up having a bad mechanical fuel pump that took me a bit to track down so went back electric pump.
I can't seem to get mine to idle with out working the throttle and seems to be running fairly rich. I am running a pretty big street/strip solid mechanical cam (.598/.620). I will give them a call on Monday to see if they can help me out.
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I have zero experience with this unit but I was reading another EFI companies tech pages last night and they discussed not having 7 lbs of vacuum or more being a problem.
 
63Belvedere said:
Finally got mine so I could try it. Lots of bumps in the road but mostly my own doing in trying to keep it a clean install plus ended up having a bad mechanical fuel pump that took me a bit to track down so went back electric pump.
I can't seem to get mine to idle with out working the throttle and seems to be running fairly rich. I am running a pretty big street/strip solid mechanical cam (.598/.620). I will give them a call on Monday to see if they can help me out.
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Played around a little today and finished the install. Got it idling much better but will still have to tinker a little and hope we get some nice warm days to get roads snow/salt free so I can get some street miles on it to let it self learn. Throttle response is killer and from a dead cold (although in my heated shop) it fires right up without touching the throttle.
A couple things I think they should address are; the O2 sensor wiring is way too short to properly run the wires and keep them away from heat (I added about 25" to mine), I would also like to see a longer main power wire and heavier gauge). I had to run a heavier power wire anyway because of my battery in the trunk but still would like to see it come with longer and heavier even if my battery was up front. There was another suggestion but can't think of right now. Overall happy with the quality and ease of installation/wiring.
I will attach a couple pics; now you see it. now you don't :D
 

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63Belvedere said:
Played around a little today and finished the install. Got it idling much better but will still have to tinker a little and hope we get some nice warm days to get roads snow/salt free so I can get some street miles on it to let it self learn. Throttle response is killer and from a dead cold (although in my heated shop) it fires right up without touching the throttle.
A couple things I think they should address are; the O2 sensor wiring is way too short to properly run the wires and keep them away from heat (I added about 25" to mine), I would also like to see a longer main power wire and heavier gauge). I had to run a heavier power wire anyway because of my battery in the trunk but still would like to see it come with longer and heavier even if my battery was up front. There was another suggestion but can't think of right now. Overall happy with the quality and ease of installation/wiring.
I will attach a couple pics; now you see it. now you don't :D
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How about a ground wire?
 
Is anyone using the FITECH to control the timing? Curious how you set it up and how it works - I'm guessing it probably would be an improvement.
 
I've emailed them with a couple of questions that I had, that was a month ago-no response.
 
QMopar said:
Is anyone using the FITECH to control the timing? Curious how you set it up and how it works - I'm guessing it probably would be an improvement.
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I'll gladly take calls at work for anyone interested in the fitech unit, or has questions about the timing control setup. Send me a PM for my desk number if you want.
 
Got the EFI and the fuel center all mounted up this week. Will plumb it all once the new gas tank is installed.
 

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If anyone is curious about bigger cfm versions I emailed the following to FiTech

"what are your options for large displacement (535 ci) naturally aspirated motors in the 750 plus horsepower range. After looking at your web site it seems that I would have to go to the dual 4 type set up, which i can not do because of intake limitations. do you plan on offering a bigger cfm version (hopefully in the 1000-1200 cfm range) with the 4500 bolt pattern? if so any idea when it would be available?

Thanks"

There response:

"Our throttle bodies do not flow that kind of cfm, but beginning of next year we should have a bigger cfm dominator flange unit with the capability for your application."
 
All I have read here and else where everybody appears to be happy with their Fitech system when they first get them...now that many of you have had them for a while how are they on the road, ease of tune & driving plus fuel consumption wise.... I'm thinking of importing one into Australia for my 318 powered Dodge ute....with our lower dollar and impending GST tax on personal imports it will be an expensive item....need to think carefully!! feed back please.....
 
Well, unfortunately winter has arrived for me in Winnipeg, so my opportunity to put many miles on is limited.

I have still been attempting to drive my car once a week, or at least start it up. I find it is easy to tune by the handheld. It starts and runs smoothly, no matter the temperature that it is. This weekend, the temperature is expected to drop to -26 Celsius at night with a high of -20 during the day. That should dry the roads up and I will be taking it out for a spin then.

Small hesitations off idle have been correctable with minor changes to accel pump settings and Idle air count adjustments. I use the timing control as well, and enjoy being able to make minor timing changes in seconds.

Hope that helps!
 
ken5124 said:
Well, unfortunately winter has arrived for me in Winnipeg, so my opportunity to put many miles on is limited.

I have still been attempting to drive my car once a week, or at least start it up. I find it is easy to tune by the handheld. It starts and runs smoothly, no matter the temperature that it is. This weekend, the temperature is expected to drop to -26 Celsius at night with a high of -20 during the day. That should dry the roads up and I will be taking it out for a spin then.

Small hesitations off idle have been correctable with minor changes to accel pump settings and Idle air count adjustments. I use the timing control as well, and enjoy being able to make minor timing changes in seconds.

Hope that helps!
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I am in the same boat as ken5124. Just got mine up and running but in the middle of winter so not a whole lot of opportunity to get some street miles on mine even though it has been a fairly mild winter. I do have some small issues with mine; seems really rich at idle and although it will start in cold temps I do have to tickle the throttle slightly for a few seconds. Not sure I should be adjusting anything until I get some street miles on it??
Unless ken5124 or others have some suggestions??
 
63belvedere, I can just press my start button and once it starts, no touching of the throttle at all. Runs about 1050 rpm, then works down as it warms up.

Mine likes 13.5 a/f at idle. Runs really roughly at anything over 14.3

I have my idle speed set to 760 rpm. MY idle air counts IAC are 9 in neutral when warm.
(you very lightly adjust the primary butterfly to adjust the IAC. the more closed your butterflies are, the higher your IAC count will be. ( you probably already know that, but just in case.)

I increased the warm up fuel settings Warm up 20F and warmup 65F slightly( i think by 10 )-- cause my winter sucks--- LOL

Your settings close?
 
ken5124 said:
63belvedere, I can just press my start button and once it starts, no touching of the throttle at all. Runs about 1050 rpm, then works down as it warms up.

Mine likes 13.5 a/f at idle. Runs really roughly at anything over 14.3

I have my idle speed set to 760 rpm. MY idle air counts IAC are 9 in neutral when warm.
(you very lightly adjust the primary butterfly to adjust the IAC. the more closed your butterflies are, the higher your IAC count will be. ( you probably already know that, but just in case.)

I increased the warm up fuel settings Warm up 20F and warmup 65F slightly( i think by 10 )-- cause my winter sucks--- LOL

Your settings close?
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My a/f is approx 13.6 at idle. I set my idle at 950 rpm on the programmer. Left the factory setting of 700 at first startup and would not idle at all cold or warm. So changed it to the 950 rpm taget idle and screwed in idle screw about a half turn. I got a pretty big cam though (.598/.620 lift, 263/271 dur @.050). I'm no techy guy thats for sure so no idea what my IAC is at. Will the programmer tell me that??
I also noticed once I input my specs into the programmer all is good but if I happen to go back in and look at it the factory settings are displayed. Is that normal??
 
Just wanted to say Johnny was a big help in getting my questions answered - thank you!

~Q
 
Probably a dump question but.... If it's self tuning, why are you having to make all the adjustments to get to run right?
 
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