FITECH EFI TUNING tips, info sharing, ideas, settings, etc...

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71duster06

71duster06

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Now that a decent number of members have purchased a FiTech unit I thought it would be nice to have a common thread where we could discuss specific tuning / adjustments that we have made along the way. Yes this unit is pretty darn close out of the box but I think all of us have made some alterations to work out any quirks specif to our motors. Anyways, I saw the following breakdown on a Mustang forum and thought it was a neat concept. Feel free to use the following to copy and paste so we have common formate. something like this would be helpful for anyone considering this for their Mopar too.

ENGINE SIZE:
FITECH SETUP USED:
ENGINE VACUUM:
CAM SETTING (1,2,3, or 4) AND YOUR CAM SPECS:
IAC COUNTS @ idle and cruise
TIMING CONTROL: Y/N?
IDLE RPM:
TARGET IDLE AFR:
ANY ADJUSTED PARAMETERS AND WHY?:
 
I'm interested in this as well. I will post up my information shortly.
 
I was hoping this thread would take off too, I was thinking of creating the same thing. Next time I'm out in the garage I will grab the settings that I changed and enter them on here. For now everything is working great, I had a hot restart stumble, but it appears to have tuned itself out.
 
I ll start!! Installed last August.

ENGINE SIZE: 318 30 over
FITECH SETUP USED:Go 4 Power adder, FCC for fuel supply.
ENGINE VACUUM: 15 inches at idle
CAM SETTING (1,2,3, or 4) AND YOUR CAM SPECS: 2 212/218 duraction at 50
IAC COUNTS @ idle and cruise 7 at idle, cruise.. will add later
TIMING CONTROL: Y/N? Yes, with MSD 6AL, using Mopar performance distributor , Mallory style guts. Base 14, Idle 21 degrees, cruise 39, WOT 33.9 degrees
IDLE RPM: 840
TARGET IDLE AFR: 13.55
ANY ADJUSTED PARAMETERS AND WHY?: where to start.... Upped all accel parameters, regular and fast accel, to get rid of lean spikes . DFCO cutout and return moved down to almost 20 and 24 respectively, ( to reduce decel backfiring through the pipes), Loop up and down at 33 each, ( to aid in quick return to idle) FCC low power reduced to 38.6 %( runs much cooler now).

Had issues with my o2 sensor wiring, self inflicted.. set wires up to tight to the firewall, damaging some lines ( seems better now that I got some slack at the throttle body--- we will see ) If o2 sensor wiring affected it will throw code 105 and 134. 105 fault will display until sensor is hot BTW) Replacement sensor Bosch 17014, if you need.
 
Ok, here's my set up. I've been working on it off and on. Currently, I'm having an issue with cold starts (same when it was on carb), spray some starting fluid, and it starts/runs...

ENGINE SIZE: 273
FITECH SETUP USED: Go EFI 4 600hp
ENGINE VACUUM:
CAM SETTING (1,2,3, or 4) AND YOUR CAM SPECS:
IAC COUNTS @ idle and cruise
TIMING CONTROL: Y/N? No
IDLE RPM:
TARGET IDLE AFR:
ANY ADJUSTED PARAMETERS AND WHY?:

I'll fill in the rest when it's running well.....
 
I will be running the car at the drag strip soon to compare how it runs now vs the previous thermoquad. Once I have those times I am going to swap intakes as I traded a friend for an RPM air gap so I can shed some light on the LD340 vs Air Gap intake comparison. EFI should allow for a true performance comparison I would think.

ENGINE SIZE: 340 (4-speed with 3.23s, LD340)
FITECH SETUP USED: Go EFI 4 600hp
ENGINE VACUUM: I will look at this next time driving the car
CAM SETTING (1,2,3, or 4) AND YOUR CAM SPECS: (3) Lunati Cam 60403
IAC COUNTS @ idle and cruise: I will look at this next time driving the car
TIMING CONTROL: Y/N? Yes, but I have another ready to run Pertronix Flamthrower III dizzy that I want to try as well. I will then determine which ignition setup I like best
IDLE RPM:850rpm
TARGET IDLE AFR: 13.6
ANY ADJUSTED PARAMETERS AND WHY?: No adjustments yet, will fine tune once I determine what ignition route I stay with. I do have the slight popping in the exhaust on decal which can be adjusted out. I will also slow the throttle to idle speed as the motor cut out a couple times when I pressed the clutch coming up to a stoplight. Minor adjustment again.
 
ken5124 said:
I ll start!! Installed last August.

ENGINE SIZE: 318 30 over
FITECH SETUP USED:Go 4 Power adder, FCC for fuel supply.
ENGINE VACUUM: 15 inches at idle
CAM SETTING (1,2,3, or 4) AND YOUR CAM SPECS: 2 212/218 duraction at 50
IAC COUNTS @ idle and cruise 7 at idle, cruise.. will add later
TIMING CONTROL: Y/N? Yes, with MSD 6AL, using Mopar performance distributor , Mallory style guts. Base 14, Idle 21 degrees, cruise 39, WOT 33.9 degrees
IDLE RPM: 840
TARGET IDLE AFR: 13.55
ANY ADJUSTED PARAMETERS AND WHY?: where to start.... Upped all accel parameters, regular and fast accel, to get rid of lean spikes . DFCO cutout and return moved down to almost 20 and 24 respectively, ( to reduce decel backfiring through the pipes), Loop up and down at 33 each, ( to aid in quick return to idle) FCC low power reduced to 38.6 %( runs much cooler now).

Had issues with my o2 sensor wiring, self inflicted.. set wires up to tight to the firewall, damaging some lines ( seems better now that I got some slack at the throttle body--- we will see ) If o2 sensor wiring affected it will throw code 105 and 134. 105 fault will display until sensor is hot BTW) Replacement sensor Bosch 17014, if you need.
Click to expand...

Update: Changed dfco cutout and return to 32 and 35 respectively.. Got some advice from a guy on the Chevelle forum ( fitech info). The decel backfiring in the exhaust is from having too much fuel when backing off the throttle.. seems to have worked well. It now cuts the fuel out earlier.

Took the side of the throttle body off last night to check my o2 sensor wiring, yes, was still having some fault codes 134 and 105. Checked continuity of the 5 wires in that harness and Could not find any visual issue.
Fitech apart.jpg



The wires that exit out the back,travel along where the red line is, a channel on the throttle body. They were bunched downward close to the linkage as shown in the red circle and i "think" under hard throttle the linkage may have been pulling the wires a bit. I didn't find any cuts or anything but who knows? Seems the wire was very close to part of the throttle linkage, so i repositioned it. Will see if that fixes the glitch.. Undid the four bolts holding the ecu in place on the front and moved the plate out a 1/4 inch, but there is no way I will be able to take it right apart. If my o2 sensor keeps throwing the code, it will have to get sent back to California for them to check. :( That will have to wait until winter.

Also adjusted the secondary linkage a wee bit, as the secondary's were not moving at the exact time the primary were.

It will go back on tomorrow and see if I put it back together correctly LOL

Ken
 
well no luck.. codes are pretty well constant.. I was unable to get the codes cleared no matter how much fiddling i did. even got a new fault code a 53 and occasionally a 36.
Waiting for my RMA to ship the Throttle body back for assessment/repairs. Dam!
 
Trying to get some idea of inlet air temperatures, what temps are you guys seeing with your systems? My engine compartment is pretty tight with a 383 stuffed in there, the air cleaner is riding tight up against my hood. Wondering if re-positioning wouldn't be a bad idea, something like a cold air intake type system. It's been a pretty hot summer in the midwest this year.

Thanks...
 
SalC said:
Trying to get some idea of inlet air temperatures, what temps are you guys seeing with your systems? My engine compartment is pretty tight with a 383 stuffed in there, the air cleaner is riding tight up against my hood. Wondering if re-positioning wouldn't be a bad idea, something like a cold air intake type system. It's been a pretty hot summer in the midwest this year.

Thanks...
Click to expand...

Mine is typically a little bit higher than outside air temp but I have a sealed six pack hood on my duster. When I changed from the original steel hood and open element air cleaner the car had a noticeable improvement in overall engine response. I'm sure I was in the mid 100s of intake temp prior. There are some good threads on the intake/air cleaners too
 
I got 1200 power adder it's installed waiting on my o2 extension because I have a rear mount set up I will let you know how it goes after Wednesday. I have been reading a lot LOL!
 
No issues so far, running great. Very happy. Peels the pavement from a dead stop :). Running about a week and a half so far, burned a tank and a half of gas. Gathers interest at the cruise nights I've been to this week, lots of lookers and questions asking about it.

ENGINE SIZE: 383 - 2800 stall - manual shift rev valve body - 4.11 gear
FITECH SETUP USED: Go EFI 4 600hp
ENGINE VACUUM: 8.5-9" (Idle)
CAM SETTING (1,2,3, or 4) AND YOUR CAM SPECS: 2 Edelbrock #7194 238/246 duration at 50
IAC COUNTS @ idle and cruise: idle 9-10, cruise TBD
TIMING CONTROL: Not yet
IDLE RPM: 880
TARGET IDLE AFR: 13.6
ANY ADJUSTED PARAMETERS AND WHY?: Fast Accel settings (all 3) ~26 - very slight hesitation while rolling with a quick stomp on the pedal
 
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SalC said:
No issues so far, running great. Very happy. Peels the pavement from a dead stop :). Running about a week and a half so far, burned a tank and a half of gas. Gathers interest at the cruise nights I've been to this week, lots of lookers and questions asking about it.

ENGINE SIZE: 383 - 2800 stall - manual shift rev valve body - 4.11 gear
FITECH SETUP USED: Go EFI 4 600hp
ENGINE VACUUM: 8.5-9" (Idle)
CAM SETTING (1,2,3, or 4) AND YOUR CAM SPECS: 2 Edelbrock #7194 238/246 duration at 50
IAC COUNTS @ idle and cruise: 9-10
TIMING CONTROL: Not yet
IDLE RPM: 880
TARGET IDLE AFR: 13.6
ANY ADJUSTED PARAMETERS AND WHY?: Fast Accel settings (all 3) ~26 - very slight hesitation while rolling with a quick stomp on the pedal
Click to expand...

When you adjusted the IAC did you only use the front screw or did you adjust the front and back at the same time?
 
71duster06 said:
When you adjusted the IAC did you only use the front screw or did you adjust the front and back at the same time?
Click to expand...

The back one (secondaries) was backed off all the way, from what I read it's supposed to be. I only adjusted the front screw...
 
SalC said:
The back one (secondaries) was backed off all the way, from what I read it's supposed to be. I only adjusted the front screw...
Click to expand...

Made a few IAC adjustments and felt a noticeable bottom end improvement. My previous IAC was very high so I adjusted and set a factory reset. So far its running well.

IMG_9804.JPG
 
71duster06 said:
Made a few IAC adjustments and felt a noticeable bottom end improvement. My previous IAC was very high so I adjusted and set a factory reset. So far its running well.
Click to expand...

I too was running a very high IAC count, I just calibrated mine but haven't been out driving since I did. I'm curious to see if there is a difference. I've noticed the idle is back down to around where I was when I had the carb on.
 
Little thread bump for a great thread idea.

Just got my FiTech 1200. Still missing a few pieces before starting it up but will report back here with my tune. Mine is a 360 single turbo on E85. Haven't found much on the interwebs as far as parameters for a similar tune, so I might be a guinea pig.

image.jpeg
 
subcom said:
Little thread bump for a great thread idea.

Just got my FiTech 1200. Still missing a few pieces before starting it up but will report back here with my tune. Mine is a 360 single turbo on E85. Haven't found much on the interwebs as far as parameters for a similar tune, so I might be a guinea pig.

View attachment 1714963040
Click to expand...

Yes sir I like mine and you will too I've only drove mine about 20 mile and it's seen boost already.
 
Anyone running a radical (290 duration) cam with the Fitech? I've got a Lunati Bracketmaster II in my 340 auto. Looking into this EFI to make mine behave on the steets a little better. Lots of stalling on hard stops and constant idle adjustments.
 
Morning! Expecting my Throttle body back this week. They have replaced the ECU with all included wiring, tested it out and given me a 6 month extension on my warranty. They advised the new ECU's have heavier guage wiring on the 6 wire connector than the original I bought last summer.

Word of warning regarding the wiring and harnesses. I took a chance and attempted to find my own wiring problems which were causing o2 sensor fault codes.. I cut 1 wire by mistake.. I had also cut off the fitech distributor 2 wire connector to wire in my mopar 2 wire distributor.

Cutting off the harness or cutting a wire by mistake VOIDS your warranty. The new ECU cost me 335 installed, US Funds.. After shipping and Canadian Conversion, my " venture" cost me 488 Canadian.

Lesson learned.. Still can't wait to get it hooked back up and running again.. Especially since I was dealing with the o2 sensor codes since last fall.
Ken
 
Whay are you guys running such a rich Idle at 13.5? Would it not be better to run a slight lean idle like 15:1? curious.
 
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