Flashers 67 barracuda

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tekslk

tekslk

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When I flip the toggel I have no flasher, but with the toggel flipped and I turn signal up or down the front lights flash like the 4 way should. Where do I begin with this to get the 4 way working, correctly.
 
You have two separate flasher units.........one for 4 way and one for turn

Find them, try switching them around, or bypass with a piece of wire. Then your 4 way "toggle" should bring on all 4 lamps steady.

Fiddling with the turn sig. switch is giving you results which are irrelevant. The TS switch must be centered for the 4x to work properly.
 
Your always the man. Thanks its bed time now but I will give it a shot tomorrow. Are the flashers relatively the same, just diffrent locations?
 
67-9 Barracuda - One flasher (hazard, 4-way) is to the left of the steering column and attached to column via clip. The other flasher (turn signal) is to the right of the ashtray receiver also by clip.
 
Rocky I got the speedometer changed thanks for your instructions.
 
I didnt no about the relay where can you get one if needed are they just standard relays?
 
I read about relay in another thread. So your telling me just start with working on the flasher. I didnt no there was a relay.
 
The flasher itself is a relay. Turns the lights on and off. When you get your new flasher unit, get the electronic version with the loud click. It will be much more steady and easier to hear.
 
rob_robinson87 said:
The flasher itself is a relay. Turns the lights on and off. When you get your new flasher unit, get the electronic version with the loud click. It will be much more steady and easier to hear.
Click to expand...

A flasher module isn't a relay. Totally different animals. Relay contains electrically activated magnetic contacts signaled either open or closed. Flasher module has a thermally activated contact that opens and closes on its own.
 
Im starting to get the picture, and as soon as I take care of my dog Im goona start looking into this, I will let youguysno whats up, or down.
 
The simple answer is, "there is no relay." Not as such.

"Basic" that is original flashers (and also the voltage 'regulator' / limiter for your gauges) work on a little heater element, wrapped around a bi--metal strip. You turn on the turn signal, current goes through the flasher and bulbs

The heater element heats, the bimetal warps, and breaks the electrical contacts. This disconnects all current including the heater, shutting off the bulbs.

The bimetal strip cools, warps back and makes contact, and "we" start all over as the bulbs light up once again.

There ARE heavy duty "truck" flashers, that contain a relay. And some vehicles (Old Ford Couriers) used relays in the signal system

This one, with the cover removed, is one. Nothing like this ever came in these cars

flasher1106.jpg
 
ok I found some old flashers in my tool box, One of them at least makes the flasher turn on but only the front ones, could that flasher be week and maybe thats all I need or do I have further problems.
Anybody recommend a certain type flasher?
 
Do your rear left and right turn signals work?
 
Yes with turn signals, but no with flashers. All turn signals work fine.
 
I think your TS switch is all broken up inside. The older switches were complicated enough, but Ma added the 4x flasher switch into the turn signal switch, so now it has even MORE contacts inside.

The sure fire deal is to bypass the 4x flasher, just insert a length of wire into the flasher socket. With the turn signal switch centered, and the 4x flasher on, all lights should come on. If the rears do not, but yet they do work in turn or brake, then it HAS to be in the column switch.
 
Ma Mopars flasher wiring is a hoot..

If memory serves me,, if you have the key off,, turn on the radio, wipers, and heater , I believe,.. then step on the brake and turn on the 4 way flashers,,,

everything activates with the flasher,,.. lol .. on/off - on/off.. disco.. lol
 
I think it would have to be the switch or the flasher its self, by the way I have seen your cuda at the lickity split in Lewisburg its nice, I live in white deer good luck
 
I got it working, I kept trying diffrent flashers I have laying around and got it to work once, when I shut it off only front lights worked, than I shut it off three more times and it worked every time, Could the toggel switch in the dash maybe be partially to blame or should I just go get a good heavy duty flasher?
 
OH HELL I'm AFU here!!! Somehow I was thinking you have a later model car. (4x switch in the column)

OK, man!!!

Here's how the dash mount 4x flashers work.

First, your column signal switch outputs all 4 corners, left, right, front rear, on FOUR separate lines.

BUT the TS switch WHEN CENTERED connects both the REAR conductors together so that both brake lights work. That is, when you mash the brakes, the TS switch routes power to both rear bulbs when the switch is centered.

So at the instant that you flip your switch for 4x, you should have the switch centered, and you have essentially (electrically) THREE wires

Now the 4x switch has 4 terminals

When off, NONE of the terminals are interconnected

When on, ALL of them are connected together.

The switch receives power from the 4x flasher on one terminal

The other three go to

left front

right front

the brake lights power going INTO the turn signal switch

So now, when that switch is on, the flasher feeds power to all three of the above.

MAKE CERTAIN that your brake lights are properly working. If so, and IF only some of the lamps are lighting, then it's either bad connections to the 4x flasher switch, or a bad 4x switch
 
All lights including the 4 way flashers are working right now. I dont no if trying all those old switches knocked rust off the terminals or using the switch a few times since it probably wasnt used in 10-15 years. Im still gonna get another flasher and if that doesnt fix things permanently I will be looking for a switch. Is the 4 way flasher switch something special or just a toggel switch. 67 barracuda
 
I would certainly check for bad connections in this system, and the switch could very well be the culprit. But you can CHECK the switch.

With the switch on, all 4 terminals should have the same voltage.


This would be a relatively special and expensive switch. You are as likely to find an original replacement as an aftermarket toggle. It would be called a "3 pole, single throw," or 3pst, or maybe, TPST for "triple pole, single throw"

I guess you could also do this with a simple SPST (2 post) switch and 3 diodes
 
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