Flickering or pulstating Headlights

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I put a jumper on the alternator ground, did nothing. I was wondering also why the pulsation goes away 1500 to 2000 rpm range, then starts bouncing again at idle?
Thanks
See post #52of this thread.
It's one other reason the manufacturers did not install voltmeters.
Another is probably the fact that they would have to explain to owners that anywhere from 13.5 to 14.8 Volts was normal, depending on rpm and load.

If you are using an regualtor with electronic guts, and the alternator is good, then probably all you're seeing is the regulation in action or the ripple.
As the engine speeds up the alternator can produce more power and it also the ripple frequency increases so its no longer as noticible.
 
Faulty voltage regulator will cause that. The condition suddenly appeared in my volt gauge needle a few days after I switched from amp gauge to volt gauge. I suppose I would have seen it in headlights, etc., also if I hadn't replaced the regulator right away.

I have been fighting this for a long time. I have every modification from this forum that I know of. It has improved, but I just can't get rid of the pulsation altogether. I could try another regulator, I have the old style, maybe there is one out there better than the others. Thanks a lot for reply...
 
I have been fighting this for a long time. I have every modification from this forum that I know of. It has improved, but I just can't get rid of the pulsation altogether. I could try another regulator, I have the old style, maybe there is one out there better than the others. Thanks a lot for reply...
Mine is the late model regulator that was transplanted from a 73 donor. It just up and crapped out. I had a new one here so I simply swapped without any diagnosing.
 
Mine is the late model regulator that was transplanted from a 73 donor. It just up and crapped out. I had a new one here so I simply swapped without any diagnosing.

Don't you need an adapter plug to do that?
See post #52of this thread.
It's one other reason the manufacturers did not install voltmeters.
Another is probably the fact that they would have to explain to owners that anywhere from 13.5 to 14.8 Volts was normal, depending on rpm and load.

If you are using an regualtor with electronic guts, and the alternator is good, then probably all you're seeing is the regulation in action or the ripple.
As the engine speeds up the alternator can produce more power and it also the ripple frequency increases so its no longer as noticible.

Yes and yes on the regulator and alternator, and so this is normal with the voltmeter? Thanks
 
I transplanted the entire charging system from the 73 to the 67 so that's where the harness connector came from. My volt gauge needle doesn't twitch.
 
Don't you need an adapter plug to do that?


Yes and yes on the regulator and alternator, and so this is normal with the voltmeter? Thanks
I dont know. I haven't hooked up an analog voltmeter while driving or at idle. I have seen the digital meter jumping around a bit at idle. I'll see something similar on the ammeter at idle - especially with a revised squareback. I think its the battery surface charge coming off (discharge) and then alternator making up for it (light charging).
It could be the dead zone @KitCarlson was explaining here.
Anyone Running A Mechanical Voltage Regulator 67 Dart 273 2bbl
Probaby need an oscilliscope or someone with experience.
 
I transplanted the entire charging system from the 73 to the 67 so that's where the harness connector came from. My volt gauge needle doesn't twitch.

Well, if the all lights flickered on the stock charging system for a 66 they would not have sold very many. I could live with the volt meter bouncing if the lights weren't . Something is causing the bounce, just have not found it. Thanks for all the input and help!!
 
If it hasn't been said before, make sure your regulator is grounded well to the fender/firewall.
 
Well, if the all lights flickered on the stock charging system for a 66 they would not have sold very many. I could live with the volt meter bouncing if the lights weren't . Something is causing the bounce, just have not found it. Thanks for all the input and help!!
What headlamps are in your car and what alternator? Not quite sure what your seeing but it seems similar to what I've seen.
I think the difference is in the non 1966 equipment.
When coming to a stop, the lights would dim slightly, especially with wipers on. The ammeter would often show slight discharge. Pull away and it would recharge. That was the norm and we all accepted it.

If you want to try an experiment, install a set of 6012 lamps. They had a rated low beam power draw of 40 Watts or a later H6014 H6017, or H6024 all of which I believe have a low beam draw of 35 Watts (except GE's nighthawk H6025NH).

And the other thing would to test using an alternator with a rotor that only draws around 2 amps.

I say this because in my experience the light flickering is most noticible with revised squareback alternator and HB2/H4 type lights. Both draw much more current than original - and I do remember original! LOL. We had a new '69 Belvidere - which we still had when I was old enough to pay attention to such things, and I drove '75 valiant for a long time, a long a few other A-bodies I had for shorter periods of time. The Belv was the most trouble free electric system. Only thing I recall going out was the starter. Lights were OK - not great in the wet. Didn't dim noticbly at stops as my A_bodies.
 
If it hasn't been said before, make sure your regulator is grounded well to the fender/firewall.

Thanks, it is grounded, I even have a braided ground strap from the VR mount to the back of the left cylinder head. Thanks for your interest.
 
What headlamps are in your car and what alternator? Not quite sure what your seeing but it seems similar to what I've seen.
I think the difference is in the non 1966 equipment.
When coming to a stop, the lights would dim slightly, especially with wipers on. The ammeter would often show slight discharge. Pull away and it would recharge. That was the norm and we all accepted it.

If you want to try an experiment, install a set of 6012 lamps. They had a rated low beam power draw of 40 Watts or a later H6014 H6017, or H6024 all of which I believe have a low beam draw of 35 Watts (except GE's nighthawk H6025NH).

And the other thing would to test using an alternator with a rotor that only draws around 2 amps.

I say this because in my experience the light flickering is most noticible with revised squareback alternator and HB2/H4 type lights. Both draw much more current than original - and I do remember original! LOL. We had a new '69 Belvidere - which we still had when I was old enough to pay attention to such things, and I drove '75 valiant for a long time, a long a few other A-bodies I had for shorter periods of time. The Belv was the most trouble free electric system. Only thing I recall going out was the starter. Lights were OK - not great in the wet. Didn't dim noticbly at stops as my A_bodies.
I have the H6024NH bulbs with a headlight relay wiring harness kit installed early 2018.. The lights on or off have no effect on the voltage fluctuating.. Thanks for reply
 
Well, if the all lights flickered on the stock charging system for a 66 they would not have sold very many. I could live with the volt meter bouncing if the lights weren't . Something is causing the bounce, just have not found it. Thanks for all the input and help!!
The lights flicker a bit on my 66, my 70 not as noticable if at all. I just chalk it up to 50+ year old electrical system and connectors. I did replace the voltage regulator once upon a time with a electronic version but when the regulator case wasn't properly grounded the system overcharged, burned out my ammeter, boiled the battery dry, and blew a bunch of light bulbs out. When I fixed all the damage and put the original points type regulator back on all has been good.
 
Lights changing from bright and dim with engine rpm isn't the same condition as flickering/pulsating. With that condition a twitch in amp gauge needle came only with turn signal operation.
I hesitate to mention the mechanical instrument voltage regulators. I suppose a fault in that circuit could show in charging system/gauge even though I've never witnessed. I aint seen it all.
That regulator is supplied by the same wire from ignition switch that feeds charging system and ignition.
 
I might check the brushes. With the key off, remove the brushes. Check for corrosion and brushes hanging up in their holders.

Disconnect the neg. battery terminal. Remove and clean the terminals behind the ammeter. Reconnect and test.

With the engine running and the ammeter twitching, wiggle the bulkhead connector while someone watches the ammeter needle.
 
I might check the brushes. With the key off, remove the brushes. Check for corrosion and brushes hanging up in their holders.

Disconnect the neg. battery terminal. Remove and clean the terminals behind the ammeter. Reconnect and test.

With the engine running and the ammeter twitching, wiggle the bulkhead connector while someone watches the ammeter needle.

No ammeter, MADD bypass, the alternator is the second rebuilt in the car, charges fine. The flickering smooths 1500 rpm and above. thanks for your input...
 
That will work, I used to do it that way when I had the old style voltage regulator. I switched to the new style regulator for better stability.

I hate to bug you again, on the relay installation, but my car's coil wiring comes from the Street Fire P/N 5520 ignition box direct, it has no ballast resistor and I ended up with 3 wires on the incoming and 2 on the outside. Thanks for your time!
 
I hate to bug you again, on the relay installation, but my car's coil wiring comes from the Street Fire P/N 5520 ignition box direct, it has no ballast resistor and I ended up with 3 wires on the incoming and 2 on the outside. Thanks for your time!
You're definitely not bugging me. I am more than happy to help. I am not sure what the street fire wiring harness looks like but all you have to find is a wire that is hot while the engine is running. Use that to power the relay coil and then use a second wire to supply the relay contacts. One side of the second wire will go to the battery or starter relay big stud and the other will go to one side of contact on the relay. The other side of the contact will feed your regulator.
 
The car has the relay installed and runs fine, except for the pulsating voltage. I have the old style regulator installed and the relay is installed per that diagram. Where I am confused is I now have five wires where there were four in the connector that replaced the ballast resistor. Should one the original wires be capped? Thanks again!
 
The car has the relay installed and runs fine, except for the pulsating voltage. I have the old style regulator installed and the relay is installed per that diagram. Where I am confused is I now have five wires where there were four in the connector that replaced the ballast resistor. Should one the original wires be capped? Thanks again!

If the original wires are not being used then yes they should be capped or better yet snipped off and tapped. As long as your car is running fine and the alternator is charging then you should be fine. Sometime in the future (if you are running a isolated field alternator) you might want to consider switching to an electronic regulator as it will help give you a more stable voltage.
 
If the original wires are not being used then yes they should be capped or better yet snipped off and tapped. As long as your car is running fine and the alternator is charging then you should be fine. Sometime in the future (if you are running a isolated field alternator) you might want to consider switching to an electronic regulator as it will help give you a more stable voltage.

I had just left the other side of the ignition wire R5 in at the firewall connection, that is where the extra wire came in. Took care of that, still pulsates of course. Thanks
 
I had just left the other side of the ignition wire R5 in at the firewall connection, that is where the extra wire came in. Took care of that, still pulsates of course. Thanks
No problem, If you ever decide to switch to the newer regulator I am here to help. Check out these 2 nighttime burnout videos of my car. Notice how bright my lights are (they are being fed by relays as well).


 
No problem, If you ever decide to switch to the newer regulator I am here to help. Check out these 2 nighttime burnout videos of my car. Notice how bright my lights are (they are being fed by relays as well).


 
Nice car, my first new car was a 69 Swinger 340 4 speed !!!
 
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