I meant to tell you that your headlights are very bright, what type of bulbs are you using? I have a headlight relay system also, with Night Hawk H6024nh bulbs, not as bright as yours. I am going to tear into my wiring after cruise season is over, the ignition circuit and the instrument panel. Also would the G6 wire from the oil pressure sending unit have any effect on the charging system if just the G5 wire from ign. switch is on the lamp, and the other one is buried in the harness in the engine compartment? Thanks
Flickering or pulstating Headlights
- Thread starter MileHighDart
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I meant to tell you that your headlights are very bright, what type of bulbs are you using? I have a headlight relay system also, with Night Hawk H6024nh bulbs, not as bright as yours. I am going to tear into my wiring after cruise season is over, the ignition circuit and the instrument panel. Also would the G6 wire from the oil pressure sending unit have any effect on the charging system if just the G5 wire from ign. switch is on the lamp, and the other one is buried in the harness in the engine compartment? Thanks
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Believe it or not, those are actually just the same halogen headlights that I put in in 1985, still working!
To add to the confusion, in 1976 Chrysler made 4 alternators that looked the same [square back]. 41 to 65 amps. They also made a 100 amp that looked different [no fins].
They also made 2 different size pulleys [~2 1/2'' and ~3'' diameter].
The full field draw for the square backs is about 5 amps. The full field draw for the old style is 3 amps.
I think the flickering is due to the regulator going from full field to a lesser current and back again. In the past, I'd drive around with the lights on to lessen the flickering.
They also made 2 different size pulleys [~2 1/2'' and ~3'' diameter].
The full field draw for the square backs is about 5 amps. The full field draw for the old style is 3 amps.
I think the flickering is due to the regulator going from full field to a lesser current and back again. In the past, I'd drive around with the lights on to lessen the flickering.
My lights flicker when on, dome light also when door is open, volt meter bounces 13 to 14 volts, relay installed to VR. As I understand it, the problem is from the ignition switch contacts. I am going to tear it down this winter and see if I can find anything. Thanks for input...
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
The flickering comes from the voltage at the ignition (I) terminal of the regulator varying. Most of the time I find that it's due to the ignition switch contacts being worn or dirty. This is why I feed the regulator (I) terminal from a relay. I disconnect (cut) the wire from the regulator (I) terminal (typically blue) and use it to supply the coil of the relay. I then supply 1 side of the relay contact from the starter relay battery stud (the big stud that goes directly to the positive post of the battery) and then connect the other side of the relay contact to the (I) terminal of the regulator. This will assure a solid and stable voltage at the regulator and will keep your lights from flickering. Additionally the newer style regulator will be more stable than the older style.
I will go back and look at my relay installation, the wires are different colors, but the relay numbers were the same. I put a new starter switch in a while back and the wires on the connector side looked good. Thanks again for your time and help.
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
No problem
Relay is installed correctly, per the instructions for old style VR. The only difference I have is no Ammeter, per MAD, and no Ballast Resistor. Thanks
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Must just be the old style regulator causing the flickering. I installed a voltmeter instead of using the ammeter. It gives you a better idea of what is happening with your charging system.
I have a voltmeter, it bounces between 13 and 14 volts, the Mad bypass does away with the Ammeter. I can try another regulator if you think it will fix it. Do you have any recommendations? Thanks again
I personally prefer an ammeter in a Mopar, as it tells me if juice is flowing into or out of the battery. And how much current at any given moment.
I had a mid 70's pick-up with flickering ammeter syndrome. Drove it for years without a problem. It would peg the ammeter needle if the battery was low. The pulley bearing was getting loud so I swapped in a good used alternator with unknown amperage rating. The flickering went away. I don't know why it did and I'm not saying it is related to your issue.
Any weak connection in the charging system will 'confuse' the voltage regulator.
I had a mid 70's pick-up with flickering ammeter syndrome. Drove it for years without a problem. It would peg the ammeter needle if the battery was low. The pulley bearing was getting loud so I swapped in a good used alternator with unknown amperage rating. The flickering went away. I don't know why it did and I'm not saying it is related to your issue.
Any weak connection in the charging system will 'confuse' the voltage regulator.
Was it just the ammeter flickering, or all the lights too? This is number two alternator I have installed, don't think it is the problem. I plan on going through the charging system this winter. Thanks for input..
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
It certainly might help. I think that the newer replacements are electronic inside instead of mechanical even though they look like the old regulator. Again I prefer the newer style charging system but that might not be an option for you at this time as you might have a grounded field alternator.
Well since I have had the car, changed the original alternator as the parts store said it was bad, the first one I got from the parts store I took back they couldn't find anything wrong with, but replaced it anyways. This is the second alternator, that I have put on it, maintains the battery fine. It has had a total of four VR'S the one the car came with electronic, two new mechanical, and one new electronic which is on the car now. Dah, this is like a soap opera. Thanks for all the help!
My ammeter flickered slowly when the engine was close to idle speed. Rev it up and it stayed steady. The lights did not flicker. In the winter when the heater fan was on high and the headlights were on, the ammeter showed negative 5 - 10 amps. And the lights would dim when at a stoplight. As soon as I took off, the ammeter went positive and the lights got bright.
If not already said, the firewall/bulkhead is a place where corrosion can cause a voltage drop.
I have been into the bulkhead plugs a couple of times cleaned them out with hobby files, I got a set of jeweler files which are smaller and try it again this winter. I hope it is something simple and I am just not finding it. Thanks for your response.
Also anyone that has a 66, know of anyway of improving the grounding for the instrument cluster? Especially for the fuel gauge. Thanks
Also anyone that has a 66, know of anyway of improving the grounding for the instrument cluster? Especially for the fuel gauge. Thanks
Well I started the whole deal today, the instrument panel is out and the ignition switch. I am going to ohm check the ignition circuit first, then the rest. I have one question to start off with, does the Q2A 12 gauge black wire power the whole fuse box? Thanks
That general scenario is pretty typical and makes perfect sense.
If it was going as much as 10 amps coming from the battery, its possible one of the windings open or has a bad diode.
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Well here is the latest, cleaned out a lot of connectors and plugs and the fuse panel with jeweler files the voltage bounce is better. This is a good one, if I let my fuse panel hang down the gas gage works, if I raise it to the installed position it won't, now that is crazy. Any suggestions? Thanks to all...
By the way do any of you know where the welded splice is that feeds G1 to the voltage limiter? Thanks
By the way do any of you know where the welded splice is that feeds G1 to the voltage limiter? Thanks
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You probably should (have) started your own thread LOL this is pretty convoluted. I don't know physically, where the splice is. So far as the fuse panel hanging, this would seem to indicate a bad connection and the weight of the harness/ panel has put enough tension to change the situation. Wiggle the harness and try to see what changes and when. These things are tough, nobody likes them
Why Add the wire when one already exists? Why not use the one from the ballast?
The car has a new ignition switch, and I cleaned all the contacts. I also have the old style regulator and a single field alternator. Thanks for reply and interest
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