Fluid Choices

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Marty

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With all the new fluids and technology out there which is the BEST fluid to use in a basically stock 727 behind a mildly modified big block with 3:23 gears?
Oh and thanks for the new forum and your sponsership. :cheers: :D
 
Good question. Ive used used bolth dextron and type f. the other day I read of people using tractor trans fluid ?
 
Thats why I asked the John Deere thing has me confused as I thought it would be more of just a hydralic thing in the tractor. Our cars use the fluid for both Hydraulics and friction modifying. :?
 
Hi Marty,

Great question, this is one that is commonly asked, and you will get various opinions on the subject. Here is mine:

I would use a quality dextron III or Mopar's ATF+3 in your transmission. I would recommend frequent fluid and filter changes, and even more so if you are bracket racing your car or using a higher than stock stall speed with street driving. Fluid breaks down with heat, and loses its ability to clean, lubricate and cool the transmission.

I would stay away from Type F fluid, as it breaks down very fast with heat in my opinion.

Some of my customers like to use a synthetic based fluid, such as red line. I personally have not seen any ill effects from using this type of fluid if it is within your budget. Some transmission builders will tell you to stay away from synthetic fluid. I still recommend frequent fluid and filter changes with this fluid.

I use ATF+4 in my cars, which is Chrysler's newest transmission fluid specified for all 98 and up Chrysler products. It is highly recommended to use this fluid with a lock up torque converter application. This fluid has additional additives to resist heat, foaming and corrosion.

Chris
 
First, in '98 our 727 we used mobil atf, one summer (2000 mile), it leaks all over, gears went when ever they want, then we start use Mopar atf 3, no leaks, firm shift, and good warm keeping, this autum we change a valvoline atf, leaks all over and shift is not so great...
727 we use is made for streetdriving with a tci converter 2500-2800 stall...
Do those transmission oils have that kind of diffrent or is our 727 just be broken? :shock:
 
I have been using Amsoil synthetics in my race car and tow truck for years. Their Universal in my D-350 diesel w/overdrive and Super Shift, which is similar to a Type-F, in the race car.

Synthetics are much more resistant to heat and breakdown than conventional fluids. Extra insurance!

As far as I'm concerned, Amsoil is the best. :thumleft: I obviously trust it as I travel around 20,000 miles to race per year with the truck. My race transmissions hold up well running mid-11's, wheels-up, with a converter that flashes to around 5,000 rpm and a car weight of over 3,530lbs!

Amsoil source and info:
http://www.thelubepage.com/


As for the problem Kako has, That's strange! It's not like the fluids have any significant viscosity differences that would promote leakage! However, if the wrong type is used and there is slippage and heat, it could cause erratic shifting, possible foaming or overheating and perhaps the heat could affect the seals! It's important to use the proper fluid for the application as there are many: Variety of Dextron, Type F, variety of Mopar types, Mercon, etc. Few are "universal" and I would only trust the ones labeled "Universal" if they are a name brand company, like Amsoil! :wink: They should at least list which other fluid specs it meets to use as a replacement.
 
Have any of u used royal purple oils? i see it every where i just want to no if its good or not?
 
I use Amsoil as well, I run it all year long in the race car, yeah it looks bad but works great and I have had no tranny problems from my 904 trans brake 10 second 4200 stall converter with NO cooler Duster ever.
 
Guess what :?:
They don't sell Amsoil here in Finland...
Only mobil, shell, exxon(here it is esso),Mopar,neste,valvoline,kendall and pennzoil atf oil...
I guess i go back to Mopar atf fluid...
 
Hi Kako,

It does seem a little odd to me that just from changing fluid brands your shift quality would change that much, and even be noticable.

What kind of modifications are done to your transmission? What valve-body are you using?

As for the leaks, maybe its time for a re-seal? Where exactly does it leak from?

Thanks for posting,

Chris
 
Myron & Guitar Jones,

Thanks for participating in the threads. As seasoned racers your input and ideas are appreciated. Thanks!

Chris
 
Duster346 said:
Hi Kako,

It does seem a little odd to me that just from changing fluid brands your shift quality would change that much, and even be noticable.

What kind of modifications are done to your transmission? What valve-body are you using?

As for the leaks, maybe its time for a re-seal? Where exactly does it leak from?

Thanks for posting,

Chris
Click to expand...

It's reinforced, MP's number 2 shift kit...
And i'm not sure where it leaks, probaply in gear lingage seal, or something like that, 'cause if the car is one week in garage and nobody has driving in it, there's a atf on the garage floor...
I know that seems to be little strange that diffrent atf come out diffrent quantity of it, but it happens...
Or that is that converter which we have there now, can that let the fluid out faster than regular converter?
I mean that when the car is staying a while in garage, does the converter start a leak to the transmission and then it leaks to the garage floor?
:scratch:
 
Generally if the trans is leaking when the vehicle sits it's either the shift shaft seal (where the valvebody shaft comes through the case) or the dipstick tube o ring. What happens is the converter drains down while parked and the fluid level rises above these two seals, when the car is running the fluid level is below them. Sometimes the dipstick tube seal area is too deep and the o ring doesn't protrude enough to seal to the case, or it may be bent.

Additionally excessive torque converter hub to front pump bushing clearance can also cause excessive converter drain back as will excessive pump case to gear clearance. Either way though this shouldn't cause a leak if the trans fluid level is correct.
 
Duster346 said:
Hi Marty,

Great question, this is one that is commonly asked, and you will get various opinions on the subject. Here is mine:

I would use a quality dextron III or Mopar's ATF+3 in your transmission. I would recommend frequent fluid and filter changes, and even more so if you are bracket racing your car or using a higher than stock stall speed with street driving. Fluid breaks down with heat, and loses its ability to clean, lubricate and cool the transmission.

I would stay away from Type F fluid, as it breaks down very fast with heat in my opinion.

Some of my customers like to use a synthetic based fluid, such as red line. I personally have not seen any ill effects from using this type of fluid if it is within your budget. Some transmission builders will tell you to stay away from synthetic fluid. I still recommend frequent fluid and filter changes with this fluid.

I use ATF+4 in my cars, which is Chrysler's newest transmission fluid specified for all 98 and up Chrysler products. It is highly recommended to use this fluid with a lock up torque converter application. This fluid has additional additives to resist heat, foaming and corrosion.

Chris
Click to expand...

JUST A MINOR CORRECTION chrysler specifies using atf +4 for everything after 1989 excluding sprinters crossfires and awd transmissions and wg bodies with the w5j400 or NAGI transmission tsb 21-004-04

now would i use this in my 727 i dont know.....if someone will tell me it wont screw up my trans i may try it but im not so sure, i'll stick with dex 3 type f mix
 
MOPAR446 said:
JUST A MINOR CORRECTION chrysler specifies using atf +4 for everything after 1989 excluding sprinters crossfires and awd transmissions and wg bodies with the w5j400 or NAGI transmission tsb 21-004-04

now would i use this in my 727 i dont know.....if someone will tell me it wont screw up my trans i may try it but im not so sure, i'll stick with dex 3 type f mix
Click to expand...

Welcome to the board 446!

Thanks for the info, I think I have that TSB around here somewhere underneath all the clutter and confusion. :scratch:

As far as using it (Mopar ATF+4) in your 727, it won't "screw it up", but it might be overkill for your application. I've used it in my race car for the past 3 seasons. It is more suited for lock-up applications, but it has better lubrication properties over type F or conventional dex III. The type F and dex III will usually provide firmer shifts over the ATF+4. I'll take better lubrication, and less frequent teardowns & overhauls personally. :wink:
 
i dont think i can argue over lubricating properties, but my concern comes from the specific seal conditioners and so forth....its like putting the wrong fluid in a modern trans....dex 3 in a honda....mess that honda tranny up in a matter of weeks...and i dont believe its the friction modifiers that causes this....but i am not a fluid engineer so i am only guessing

but i have over 80k on a street driven 727, 3000 stall, full manual reverse pattern using type f and dex. i have changed the fluid once only because i puled the tranny to do the starter....lovely thing about TTI's

i would hate to put this stuff in there and have a problem......i dont feel like pulling it out until its actually needed....

there are many opinions regarding fluid, especially oil and trans fluid....and mine is just one....not meaning to step on your toes
 
Actually the Type 4 is a synthetic based fluid. It looks, smells and feels like Amsoil but I wouldn't swear to it being Amsoil, but it is synthetic based.
 
i know its synthetic and it does stink.......LOL....synthetic i agree it better all around.....im just leary of using it...
 
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