Ford 8.8 Swap

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Originally Posted by 393foureyedfox The guys who prefer 100% stock cars are likely not the guys who enjoy driving them regularly, I imagine. 40 year old technology with it's undersized drum brakes, relative lack of machining precision, carbueration, suspensions, wiring, etc.....doesnt add up to a pleasant car for the road.

whatever dude, this couldn't be further from the truth. I drive my original 40 year old drum brake V8 car every single day , and I enjoy the hell out of it, winter , spring , summer and fall. it is an extremely pleasant and reliable car to drive. it has never left me stranded and cruises right on down the road..... oh , and the heat kicks ***
 
whatever dude, this couldn't be further from the truth. I drive my original 40 year old drum brake V8 car every single day , and I enjoy the hell out of it, winter , spring , summer and fall. it is an extremely pleasant and reliable car to drive. it has never left me stranded and cruises right on down the road..... oh , and the heat kicks ***

on factory type bias ply tires too i bet ;)
 
I swapped a full length drum brake 8.8 out of a Mazda Navajo (re-badged explorer) for under $150 total. $90 of that was just for the rear axle.

Unless you are running mini tubs and slicks there is no reason to cut one down, the full length Explorer axle actually puts the rear tires where they should be (on Dusters and Dart Sports at least) not tucked way up in the quarter panels like the Chrysler rear-ends.

For the money I think it would be foolish to swap in anything else. They are strong rear axles, they are plentiful, they are cheap, have extensive aftermarket support, and it may as well be a bolt in swap. Just cut the perches off, move them out, re-weld, put in a u-joint, and go. The parking brake cables swap in without any issue. As slick as mine went in I almost think that it was like it was designed to be mounted in A-body.

Just remember to grab the tie plates and u-bolts off the donor explorer, 7 1/4 tie plates just won't work. I made a set splicing the shock mount off my tie plate to one off a 3/4 ton Chevy truck because I didn't grab the Navajo's.

As for originality, there is no way I would ever keep a 7 1/4, ever. Anything else would ruin the car's "originality" or "factory" appearance, in my opinion swapping in a Dana 60 or a 8 3/4 or 8 1/4 is ruining the cars true originality, so if you're going to cross that border keep on going and get what you want for the price you want.
 
OK, I'll weigh in. If you disagree with me, fine.
I wouldn't go the 8.8 route. I just installed a 8.75 A body rear in my Scamp last year - and I had nowhere near the 2k someone quoted. housing=200, NEW axles through Dr. Diff = $300, an open (for now) 3.55 carrier = 150.
$650 and I was rolling, using the 10" backing plates from the bbp 7.25 that was in the car.
Folks act as if they are getting a superior rear end with the 8.8, you're not.
By the time you pull the rear from a ford, do the required work on the housing and get it all buttoned up, you might as well went out and scored an 8.75. Plus, it's not as if you are ending up with a NEW rear. You are installing a rear from some high mileage Ford truck/SUV.
Alright, I'm done.
 
OK, I'll weigh in. If you disagree with me, fine.
I wouldn't go the 8.8 route. I just installed a 8.75 A body rear in my Scamp last year - and I had nowhere near the 2k someone quoted. housing=200, NEW axles through Dr. Diff = $300, an open (for now) 3.55 carrier = 150.
$650 and I was rolling, using the 10" backing plates from the bbp 7.25 that was in the car.
Folks act as if they are getting a superior rear end with the 8.8, you're not.
By the time you pull the rear from a ford, do the required work on the housing and get it all buttoned up, you might as well went out and scored an 8.75. Plus, it's not as if you are ending up with a NEW rear. You are installing a rear from some high mileage Ford truck/SUV.
Alright, I'm done.


Ford 8.8 Caliper to Caliper - $140 already equipped with 3.55/3.73/4.10 LSD. $100 to shorten the passenger side to the same length as the drivers side. $45 for a brand new shaft. $15 for the U-joint conversion. Weld perches yourself. Boom, rollin with $300. Seen it done, and I am in the process.

Dakota
 
some 8.8 have a 327 gear,,put on in a street rod,,,

Whilst in reconnaissance mode for exhaust manifolds in local yard, I spied two explorers: Photoed the vin tag on door.. compared to a chart (from local poster?) it showed 3:73 posi.. According that data, 3:73 was tallest gear available. Vehicles were ~'96 iirc or close.. What year would one look for a 3:27? (more what I want)
 
OK, I'll weigh in. If you disagree with me, fine.
I wouldn't go the 8.8 route. I just installed a 8.75 A body rear in my Scamp last year - and I had nowhere near the 2k someone quoted. housing=200, NEW axles through Dr. Diff = $300, an open (for now) 3.55 carrier = 150.
$650 and I was rolling, using the 10" backing plates from the bbp 7.25 that was in the car.
Folks act as if they are getting a superior rear end with the 8.8, you're not.
By the time you pull the rear from a ford, do the required work on the housing and get it all buttoned up, you might as well went out and scored an 8.75. Plus, it's not as if you are ending up with a NEW rear. You are installing a rear from some high mileage Ford truck/SUV.
Alright, I'm done.
Nope-I agree with you. We have a bunch of 8.8's of all types.And we sell them because they are NOT bullitproof.All I can say is-that sure is cheap for a mustang complete rear!
 
Whilst in reconnaissance mode for exhaust manifolds in local yard, I spied two explorers: Photoed the vin tag on door.. compared to a chart (from local poster?) it showed 3:73 posi.. According that data, 3:73 was tallest gear available. Vehicles were ~'96 iirc or close.. What year would one look for a 3:27? (more what I want)

we dont know what year it came out of, it came with a bunch of parts my friend traded, we used the 8.8 cause it was the perfect width for his 48 dodge and had rear discs, 3.27 gear openOLOR]
 
the simple fact is that there are more a-bodies on the road than there are 8.75's to put in them. given the choice, most people will automatically choose the 8.75 because its a true bolt in and its a proven strong part. it ends there though.

most people have converted to big bolt pattern. the 8.75 a body never had that, so youve gotta redrill it or have c body axles shortened, or buy custom ones. back to my first statement....there are more a bodies than 8.75 a body rears, and there are even less sure-grips around. again, you can buy a new one....for $500.

gear ratio options are even less

benefits of an 8.8 ford? cheap ($100 usually). practically a bolt in when you weld on a set of $15 spring pads. strong. awesome FACTORY gear ratio selection (3.27, 3.55, 3.73, and 4.10), and even more in aftermarket. most explorer rears had posi units that are (and this was a genius idea) rebuildable without taking the rear end apart. parts are literally at every junkyard (ive seen one 8.75 at a junkyard in the past few years....literally one). the 4.5" bolt circle is already there. discs are already on most of them (1995+). parts are dirt cheap.

it's win-win

i was going to put one in my 66 Fury, until my junkyard research found that a 96 Dakota was an even better fit. its a drum rear, but while i was in the junkyard pulling that out, i left the 6 lug axles there and grabbed one axle from a cherokee and one from an 87 dakota (both 4.5" bs, and the right lengths) and the rear disc setup from an 01 durango. the late 8.25 posi is also rebuildable without taking the rear apart (the factory service manual disagrees, but with some ingenuity you can), but NOWHERE as easy as a ford 8.8.\
mine is still all mopar, but if i were to do it again, i would go with the 8.8. i also bought a turbocoupe t-bird 8.8 rear disc rear end, after the fact, that i may go ahead and put in the fury anyway if the dakota rear doesnt satisfy me.............point is, i REMOVED an 8.75 from the car just because of price/availability issues. a 3.55 open third member would cost me more than the whole 3.55 posi disc rear end that i ended up with. it wouldve cost me $100-150 for an open 3.55 8.75 member, another $450 for a suregrip (new), and another $50 to have it set up, meaning $600+ for a rear end that still has drums on it.

short of it is....use what you want/have to to get what you want. The Fury now has 5.9 EFI, a 518 OD, 3.55 posi, and 4 wheel discs. drive this then drive your 100% stocker and tell me which you prefer. next up is H4/H1 headlight upgrades and cruise control.

you cant beat the looks of a classic car with anything new, but you can sure beat everything else about them.

a side thought....if both a 426 hemi and a new 6.4 hemi cost the exact same amount/ were worth the same amount....only the guys who value pure originality would choose the 426. that comment will start a shitstorm!
 
Whilst in reconnaissance mode for exhaust manifolds in local yard, I spied two explorers: Photoed the vin tag on door.. compared to a chart (from local poster?) it showed 3:73 posi.. According that data, 3:73 was tallest gear available. Vehicles were ~'96 iirc or close.. What year would one look for a 3:27? (more what I want)

I currently have an 8.8 out of a 97 explorer with 4.10 LSD in a ranger. And it was stock gears.
 
41 is a 3.27 open, D1 is a 3.27 posi.

the 3.27 is an oddball in the 95+ disc rears, but common in the boxy drum-braked 91-94 explorers. want discs and a 3.27? easy....just take the housing from a 3.27 91-94, and pull all the axles and brake stuff out of a 95 and put it in there. any junkyard will have all that stuff at any given time.

3.73 posi (D4) is by far the most common in an explorer.

4.10 posi (D2) isnt rare, but nowhere near as common as the 3.73

for whatever reason, Ford made it impossible to get a 3.55 posi in an explorer. you could get a 3.55 open, but not a posi. But just because Ford said you couldnt order it doesnt mean theres not a few out there. Something always sneaks out the factory doors. They also said a 3.08 posi wasnt available in an F150, but I found one for my truck once...
 
OK, I'll weigh in. If you disagree with me, fine.
I wouldn't go the 8.8 route. I just installed a 8.75 A body rear in my Scamp last year - and I had nowhere near the 2k someone quoted. housing=200, NEW axles through Dr. Diff = $300, an open (for now) 3.55 carrier = 150.
$650 and I was rolling, using the 10" backing plates from the bbp 7.25 that was in the car.
Folks act as if they are getting a superior rear end with the 8.8, you're not.
By the time you pull the rear from a ford, do the required work on the housing and get it all buttoned up, you might as well went out and scored an 8.75. Plus, it's not as if you are ending up with a NEW rear. You are installing a rear from some high mileage Ford truck/SUV.
Alright, I'm done.

:cheers: thank u very well said
 
I just sold my last of 4 mustangs, they were cheaper than mopars lol, any way you can also use 94-2004 gt and non gt rear ends, both are 8.8 and come with disks
 
And yes, some 8 3/4's came from the factory with rear disc.....Imperial's, although rare as hens teeth and only a 2 year run if memory serves correct.
 
I just sold my last of 4 mustangs, they were cheaper than mopars lol, any way you can also use 94-2004 gt and non gt rear ends, both are 8.8 and come with disks[/QUOTE

I believe, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but don't the Mustang rear ends come with 28 spline axles instead of the 31 spline axles in the Explorer. Thus, for a low buck swap the Explorer rear is more desirable.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
I just sold my last of 4 mustangs, they were cheaper than mopars lol, any way you can also use 94-2004 gt and non gt rear ends, both are 8.8 and come with disks[/QUOTE

I believe, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but don't the Mustang rear ends come with 28 spline axles instead of the 31 spline axles in the Explorer. Thus, for a low buck swap the Explorer rear is more desirable.

Regards,

Joe Dokes

totally accurate but i have run slicks on high 11 second cars on juice with 28 spline stock ford axles in a 3350lb (with driver) mustang at 173k miles and not broken anything. point being, 28 vs 31 is moot for a street mopar... mustang or explorer will both work great
 
8.75 never came with discs, period. the imperial you are thinking of had an 8.25. the 8.75 can not be used with discs unless you change to the "green" ball bearing axle bearings. tons of info online about this.

28 vs 31 splines,as stated, is of no importance on a street car. rarely will you see anyone break either, they can handle a lot of power. 31 spline 8.8 rears are only in explorers and full size trucks, and a few of the FX4 rangers.

also as stated, there are lots of ways to get an 8.8 w8th discs. 87-88 turbocoupes came with either 3.55 or 3.73 posi disc rears, but were 4 lug. 84-92 Lincoln mark 7's came with 3.08 or 3.27 posi disc rears, and are 5 lug ford/dodge pattern. 94 and up mustangs are 5 lug rear disc rears, but only the GT anc cobras had 8.8's, the other mustangs got the 7.5. mustang 8.8 rears from 94 and up are typically 3.27's, but other gears are to be had. the problem with the mustang 8.8 is people think they are worth more than they are, especially for a transplant into a non-mustang.

explorers remain the best source of cheap, 31 spline rear discs with performance gear ratios.


to the guy who was bragging about having only spent $650 on his 8.75.....you made my point. $650 and you still have an open differential and 10" drums. if youre happy with it though, thats all that matters ultimately, isnt it? To me though, $650 would buy a used explorer rear, the spring pads to weld onto it, 2 new rotors, 2 new calipers, a new set of brake pads, new gear oil and additive, new ujoints, new brake lines, new clutch pack to rebuild the differential, and enough leftover to throw a nice bottle of bourbon down my neck after putting it in....
 
well for the past year I have been looking for a 8.75 and it always incomplete or sky high priced or 2 states away, I read about this swap and the next day found a 8.8 4:10 limited slip for next to nothing, havn't got it installed yet but looking forward!
 
Do some research, cause the 8 3/4 did come with factory rear disc's for 1 or 2 years, PERIOD!!!
 
I think you should all whip em out and we can see how far you all pee.
Instead of fighting over car parts none of you dittoheads have ever seen.
 
This thread has been going on since 2007. Does anyone have pictures of the 8.8 install?
 
Not to beat a dead horse here, just to offer so other views on the 8.8 debate.

I'm new to this site, but not to building cars, and certainly not to drag racing. For several years I have been building S-10 pickups to run 1/4 mile duty. They are cheap, full framed toys that are a dime a dozen, are a drop in candidate for a small or big bock Chevy powerplant, and are fairly light. We make them fly! (Think 7 second 1/4 mile times)

I use a lot of 8.8 rears in my builds for others. I did 4 (four) builds in one day last year before the S-10 nationals at Bowling Green. They take a LOT of abuse, and after you change the long side axle out at the boneyard, you are out the door with a limited slip 3:73 or 4:10 gear 31 spline axled rear with discs for under $150.

We have several of them going to be competing at the nationals again next weekend (May 18 ) in Bowling Green again this year. Fast trucks pulling the front wheels high and carrying them way past the 60' timers on 8.8 rears. The 8.8 is much easier to find in the junkyard, and as easy to mod as anything else, long as you can weld.

I just found a Dart with a 9" under it, I'll be changing it to an 8.8 as well. My 8 3/4 I have is an open unit, and has the dreaded 741 chunk in it. Time I buy a new chunk, gears, and all the other stuff to set it up with discs, I'll be wayyy past the cost of an 8.8 in my Dart. I'm sure it will handle the 440 I'm putting in front of it.


Is it a purists rear end? Nope. Neither is a 9" under a Chevy, or any of 10001 other hot rod types with it under the back. The 8.8 even has the same pinion bearing as Chevy's famed 12 bolt rear. They are strong. And cheap. So why not? Show me stacks of locker rear, good gear set equipped 8 3/4 rear ends laying around, for the same price, and I'll go scarf one up. Till then......Don't over look other options.

Anyone that wants, PM me and I can walk you through the centering process.
 
well said, 70440....

but there are snobs in every hobby, particularly cars


5.7 hemi, get your story straight before you open your mouth. Look it up, confer with E-berg, whatever it takes, the 8.75 NEVER came with discs. The rear disc Imperial you are thinking of had an 8.25.

it's even mentioned in the disc-o-tech article by E-berg.

the nature of the adjustable end-play axle bearings of an 8.75 wount allow discs to be used.....unless you adapt to the green bearings, but then you give up bearing strength/axle load
 
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