I have a pair of quarter windows for a 71 duster that have been sitting around my garage for probably 30 years, if you need them cause the goof fucked em up I'll give em to you free of charge. The carpet is supposed to be separate pieces but not like that. I might have some other trim to donate as well. I suggest again maybe just take a break for a week or two and let the dust settle.
Found my dads original 1971 duster!
- Thread starter dads71
- Start date
-
dads71
Well-Known Member
Hey. How’s it going? I really appreciate that offer! That’s so nice of you! Ya, I’m pretty bummed out right now. I can’t even bring myself to go out to the shop with the car. I almost feel like I don’t even want it anymore. I hate what he’s taken from me. I’m not even sure what certain things are supposed to look like etc or how badly he’s messed things up. Omit sure if the body lines can be restored or the gaps filled and fixed. Just so many unknowns
As much as it sucks, and as hard as it is to look at.. Its still your Dad's car. It's still the car you grew up in. The body can be fixed, all the trim work he did can be fixed. I'm sure most of us here would be glad to help with tips and advice on it. At this point dare I say reach out to Graveyard cars and get your story out there.. maybe ol worman will be able to help.
dads71
Well-Known Member
Thanks so much. That means a lot. Just so overwhelming.
The rear quarters don’t even have body lines anymore. it’s like he’s sanded them off. The passenger side quarter sticks out 1/4” past the level of the door. The top where the doors meet the rear quarters are terrible. Just so many things that I’m not sure can even be fixed. I definitely understand people saying to take some time off from the car, but the unknowns now are hard to process. Everyone is so great on here. It’s cool to see how the car community is
dads71
Well-Known Member
I agree that I need to let the dust settle. Right now I’m so sad/mad/frustrated/overwhelmed that I have no motivation to start all over again. Spend a ton more money on it, lose the car for another year or 2. I have no idea if the mechanical work he’s done is any good. Nothing. I feel sick to my stomach
Firstblood
Well-Known Member
Sorry to hear this crap.
What I would do is start with a list of things that need done.
Most important things first, like getting it running and driving.
All the cosmetics can be taken care of over time.
You will find the right people to help you, I'm sure.
Good luck.
What I would do is start with a list of things that need done.
Most important things first, like getting it running and driving.
All the cosmetics can be taken care of over time.
You will find the right people to help you, I'm sure.
Good luck.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Oh it all can be fixed. But car needs to be put away covered up for a while. Yeah idiot scum bag lying piece of **** idiot did some sub standard crappy work. Its a car, a machine, it can be made right despite this set back. You are one of millions that have been screwed over by a crook.
Shenango
Well-Known Member
You probably don't want to hear this but you should make sure the engine in the car is the same one you had rebuilt. A fresh 340 is worth a lot of money and it wouldn't be hard for him to dress up a 318 for your car and sell the fresh one for a profit at your expense.
Sorry to bring this up.
Jerry
Sorry to bring this up.
Jerry
dads71
Well-Known Member
Thanks. The engine and transmission are all original and I had them rebuilt at a separate shop. Thanks for thinking of that though
dads71
Well-Known Member
Thanks
. It’s in my shop until I can figure out a plan
dads71
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Ya, one day I’ll have my car the way I want it. This is just a delay
That is a very healthy attitude. Now its time to get to work. First of all save and print every text conversation with him. Many small things can show intent, even if its trivial. Start a file and put every receipt for payment in there. Copies of bank statements, charge card bills, everything. Establish dates and verbal agreements to the best of your ability to give a timeline that you can back up with documents you have. An attorney will look at your loss and your facts to determine the validity of your case. They will also try to find others who have had trouble with him to establish a pattern of practice. This isn't about revenge, its about compensation for your loss of time and money, and emotional distress. Someone else mentioned having a competent shop look at the car and give a professional opinion of the problems and possibly an estimate to undo the damage. The better your preparation the better the chances for a good outcome.
I sure am sorry about all this. It seems there are a lot of guys out there like this. Sorry you got hold of one. So just to ask, DO you have your car back at least?
Uhhhh check out posts 385, 386, 397, 401, 410, 427…………
I bought my Dads car back and rebuilt it. Its never easy but by God its worth it in the end. You can do it!
Well don't let the actions of one prick ruin the experience of fixin up your dad's car. I know that's easier said than done. All I can say is, turn it over to God. That'll take it off your shoulders.
dads71
Well-Known Member
Thanks everybody. Means a lot!
I need some help. I had a friend come over to try to get car started. He had power to the firewall, but not on car. He bipassed and ran direct wire from battery into a wire under the dash and got the car running….but it immediately started smoking like crazy under the dash and coming out of the gauge cluster. I shut it off immediately. Someone said I might have fried my gauges because they are 6 volt. Is this true? It just keeps getting worse. I’m getting pretty down at this point. Also discovered a leak in fuel line, a leak in brake line and a rad hose leak. Anybody on here that I could pay to make a trip to sort out my wiring issues?? Whatever money it takes at this point
I need some help. I had a friend come over to try to get car started. He had power to the firewall, but not on car. He bipassed and ran direct wire from battery into a wire under the dash and got the car running….but it immediately started smoking like crazy under the dash and coming out of the gauge cluster. I shut it off immediately. Someone said I might have fried my gauges because they are 6 volt. Is this true? It just keeps getting worse. I’m getting pretty down at this point. Also discovered a leak in fuel line, a leak in brake line and a rad hose leak. Anybody on here that I could pay to make a trip to sort out my wiring issues?? Whatever money it takes at this point
dads71
Well-Known Member
Also trying to figure out how to get the dash out to see what burnt. Any tips would be helpful. My buddy is a good mechanic. He just isn’t sure about the 12 volt to 6 volt. If that’s true
There is a voltage regulator built into the fuel gauge of the rally dash. It's job it to reduce the voltage from 12 to approx 5 volts to power your gauges. There is a set of points in there that are controlled by a bi metal strip. If it fails closed, gauges get 12 volts and get cooked. If it fails open, the gauges won't work. Your gauges may be fine if you got the power removed quick enough.
Most folks defeat the regulator in the gas gauge, and replace it with an external solid state unit. There is a member building them here on the forum.
If you cooked yours, I have some spares. Keep me in mind......(the solid state IVR is the little box on the left with the 2 wires...12v in, 5v out)
BTW.......Sounds like you need to start doing your own work. With these old girls, the learning curve is not that steep.....And plenty of good folks here to help you along the way.
Most folks defeat the regulator in the gas gauge, and replace it with an external solid state unit. There is a member building them here on the forum.
If you cooked yours, I have some spares. Keep me in mind......(the solid state IVR is the little box on the left with the 2 wires...12v in, 5v out)
BTW.......Sounds like you need to start doing your own work. With these old girls, the learning curve is not that steep.....And plenty of good folks here to help you along the way.
AbodyGerry
New Member
The car is for sure a 12 volt system. I hope you didn't fry anything .......
dads71
Well-Known Member
Thank you so much. Thats very helpful! I just spoke with a member on the phone and he described it exactly as you have written. The picture helps a lot! If I’ve fried anything, I’ll definitely buy your spare!There is a voltage regulator built into the fuel gauge of the rally dash. It's job it to reduce the voltage from 12 to approx 5 volts to power your gauges. There is a set of points in there that are controlled by a bi metal strip. If it fails closed, gauges get 12 volts and get cooked. If it fails open, the gauges won't work. Your gauges may be fine if you got the power removed quick enough.
Most folks defeat the regulator in the gas gauge, and replace it with an external solid state unit. There is a member building them here on the forum.
If you cooked yours, I have some spares. Keep me in mind......(the solid state IVR is the little box on the left with the 2 wires...12v in, 5v out)
BTW.......Sounds like you need to start doing your own work. With these old girls, the learning curve is not that steep.....And plenty of good folks here to help you along the way.
View attachment 1716267545
dads71
Well-Known Member
Thanks again! How do I buy this solid state unit?There is a voltage regulator built into the fuel gauge of the rally dash. It's job it to reduce the voltage from 12 to approx 5 volts to power your gauges. There is a set of points in there that are controlled by a bi metal strip. If it fails closed, gauges get 12 volts and get cooked. If it fails open, the gauges won't work. Your gauges may be fine if you got the power removed quick enough.
Most folks defeat the regulator in the gas gauge, and replace it with an external solid state unit. There is a member building them here on the forum.
If you cooked yours, I have some spares. Keep me in mind......(the solid state IVR is the little box on the left with the 2 wires...12v in, 5v out)
BTW.......Sounds like you need to start doing your own work. With these old girls, the learning curve is not that steep.....And plenty of good folks here to help you along the way.
View attachment 1716267545
Given this was your Dads car I get the sense you are going to keep the car for many years? Sure there will be the things that will need to be fixed longer term based on the job the restoration shop did recently. I like your effort trying to get the car running now. Get it running and drive it around this summer. That will keep the flame going before figuring out how much body work it needs.
Since you’re going to be keeping the car, you really do need to get the factory service manuals (FSM) for your Duster. You can get them for free electronically or buy the hard copy version. Coming on here for the odd item is good but coming on here for every little item will be frustrating for you. We can keep catching the fish for you on items (but you’ll need to wait until peeps respond to your posts) or you can learn to fish so you’re self sufficient. Once you have the FSM, just flip through the chapters to get an idea of how your car is put together. Flip through it before even determining what you want to fix next. Then when you want to tackle something, all the info is there. Yeah it’s going to be intimidating at first but, considering you’re going to have the car for a while, you really should consider learning how to fish. Long term it will be the right thing and you will feel that much better after you’ve tackled the first few tasks.
I’m not saying you need to spend thousands of dollars on a tool chest and tools. Start with a quality socket set, multi-meter, floor jack, jack stands and screw drivers.
Honestly, you can do this! The FSM will instantly tell you how many volts your car is.
Last edited:
-
