Frame Conectors instructions

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I do have a body manual. never had much us for it and i guess i never have look all the way thru it.

I don't think any thing is bent! I really thing it came form the factory this way. I have check every inch of the sub frame. And there is no sign, what so ever, of movement of the sub frame moving.

Not even a crack in any of the under coating.

In the 3d or 4th pic it shows a split in the sub frame, under the leaf spring bolt. I have went out 3 time to double check as it looks so real. The camera must of picked up a shadow or some thing because the crack or tear is just not there.

I don't have any plumb bobs but will buy a couple and check it out.

O and my car is a E-body not a A-body But the diagnoses will be the same for either one and there is a lot more people here, there for, more advice on here.:thumbup:
 
Mine didn't fit perfectly either, done the same way. Had to wap the rear floor pans a little with BFH. Jackstand the rear and front frame rails, If the doors latch smooth, get 'r done.
 
mopwr2004a said:
you can get the frame spec sheet off Ebay I bought one and it covers alot of A-body year models.

if I can find mine I will try and post a pic of it.

if you have a welder and basic grinder with a cutoff wheel and some other hand tools you can make what you have work.

put the car on jack stands. put it only under frame sections not moving suspension.

using the door sil as a place to put a level front to back and see what you have.

then take a long piece of material that is straight lay it from door to door sil, you mave have to take the seats out and make sure you go over the trans tunnel and see if level side to side. that will tell you if the car is twisted.

from the looks of the frame damage it looks like it was hit in the rear.
Click to expand...


No! not been wrecked, Still has all the factory Original Lead Paint on it.

At first i thought it was from some one trying to us it off road, like a truck. But now that i have examine a lot close............ the dent in the sub frame was from a small floor jack, with the jaws not centered across the sub frame(it could have vary well have been myself!)
For many of years the slicks road on the back seat and i would change them at the track. Used a small floor jack that i could fit in the trunk. would jack up one side high enough to put the slicks on and uncork the headers!
 
PoisonDart74 said:
Mine didn't fit perfectly either, done the same way. Had to wap the rear floor pans a little with BFH. Jackstand the rear and front frame rails, If the doors latch smooth, get 'r done.
Click to expand...

Doors have all way shut nice. I guess that would have been the first sign that i was doing damage to my car. and like i said before it's only a low 14 sec car with a real p.o.s. converter that get 2.2 sec. 60 foot time............... not a real torque monster/frame twister!

That's why I'm putting the frame connector on now. 340 is going away, and low rpm, high torque, 408 is going in.
 
I was just under my car a few hours ago and my connectors are no where near where yours are landing on the torsion bars
 
Bought the plumb bob and spent all day doing the measurements. from segment, diagonally to the rear is with in spec. front of rear spring perch, diagonally to rear leaf spring mount bolt is 1 and 3/4 inch off.

What is strange is both side are exactly off the same! Spec said 76.04(plus or minus .25) and both side are 74" 5/16 exactly. I can't be leave that both front segment, of the rear sub frame, would being bent the same amount :scratch:

any body have access to a 70 ply body manual.
The one i have is for a 71. I have been told that the 70 and 71 Barracuda's were the same............but now i question that.
 
I thing the pinnion snubber beating on the floor pan for the past 20+ years, is what has cause the front, of the rear sub frame, to bend inward that 1.75 inchs.

Talking with a friend of mine, got me thinking my measurement are off..... the car is suspend off the floor by the suspention. My car sets nose down. It is several inch lower in the front. So i'm going to have to reset it so its on the same plain as the garage floor. Then measure it all over again.

Have ordered a shop/chassie manual off of e-bay, should be here next week. Then i will know i'm using the right numbers.
 
Took it into the frame/body shop a week a go. the frame is not out of wack, my measuring was!
The sub frame is pulled in by 1/2" (1/4" on each side) so it is in spec. I'm having them install my sub frame connectors and welding then solid.

He is going to have to modify my sub frame connectors to get it to fit. See the rear sub frame IS tilted in and connector will need to be cut and bent to fit. And like i said before, you don't need a tape measure to see it!

NOW! as Paul Harvey would say " AND NOW, THE REST OF THE STORY!

This is the sub frame connector i bought some 10+ years a go.
The 2nt picture is the one i should have bought! Notes the kick or bend in it.
A body are a straight shot, E body are not!!!:eek:ops::violent1::banghead::evil3:
 

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well just to put a period to this thread. I had the frame shop install my frame connectors on there frame table and then weld then solid.

Cars front end lift flat and straight now.
Swapped out my 340 for my new 408 and it still lifts nice and straight.

My worry about it hooking with the new motor has been a non issue so far(new slicks probably help some as well.

We will see what happen next year when i replace my pos non brand 11" converter(3000 stall) with a nice 9-1/2" (4200 stall):burnout::cheers:
 
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