Frame connectors

-
Kendog 170 said:
Stole your pic to show where I welded a peice of 1/2" steel conduit thru.

View attachment 1715560631
Click to expand...
Nifty idea, however it's still the bare cable at that point unless you slide a split rubber cover over the bare cable that's inside the tube to protect it. If the tube is welded in at the wrong angle, and you use the parking brake a lot like on a stick shift car, or it just rattles inside the tube against an edge of it, over time it will start to rub through the strands of the cable, and may cause cable failure when you actually need it.

My idea captures the end of the cable housing or sheath in the trans crossmember like it's supposed to be. Its just moved inboard between the framerail and torsion bar putting it in line with the rear underfloor fairlead. Nothing is in this area that will possibly rub through the inner cable causing it to fail. Nothing against your install kendog 170, except mine is simple cleaner install, no additional welding of a tube inside your connector, and hoping you got it all at the right angle. Just add 2 holes in a different spot on the crossmember. I also plan on adding a rubber grommet at the fwd end of the cable to help keep dirt and crap out of the crossmember.

I must confess I was considering running a tube through the subframe connector, then stepped back for a few days while I was coming up with how I was going to do this since i added transition lap plates to the crossmember to transfer the connector loads and covered up the original cable mount hole. Then I got the eureka moment and out came the 6" long drill bit to pilot it, and the 3/4 hole cutter for the front end, and whatever I needed on the other end for the cable retainer clip to fit. I recommend those transition plates only because your subframe connector may be thicker steel, and it needs a transition to that thinner crossmember to transition the load.
 
Last edited:
This is the NEW world we live in.
You can not buy what is advertised.
you must make yourself...


Hi,

Believe me, I’d love to help out here. The complexities of subframe connectors make it nearly impossible to adapt one platform to another though. Length, width, height, horizontal, diagonal, and vertical relationship of each bolt hole in every plane makes it nearly impossible to do from a distance though. The inconsistencies of the cars over the years has even made it so that some components, like subframe connectors, have to be reverse engineered rather than utilize CAD/CAM and all their associated measurements, which would be needed to be able to send you some form of measurements, which would take hours with trammels, plum bobs, and more to establish on your end. I’m sure we’ll get some together eventually but it doesn’t help you now unfortunately.

So sorry I can’t be more help.



Thanks very much.

Ron Jenkins

Magnum Force Inc.

408-559-6633

http://www.magnumforce.com
 
Very nice connectors Ron. Those look like they will work well if they are bolt in type connectors. Perfect solution for guys who cannot or dont know how to weld. Myself, I will stick with $40 worth of 2"x3" rectangle steel, a cutoff wheel, and a welder.
 
grimreaper said:
My 1964 Barracuda has the US Cartools weld in and we put a set made with rectangular tubing (welded in)in a friends car. I doubt anyone could tell the difference without looking underneath the car. The cars were equally improved with the different styles. I would recommend to weld and not bolt subframe connectors. They make such an improvement when everything is solidified. The US Cartools look a little nicer installed, the rectangular tubing is less expensive.
Click to expand...
 
grimreaper said:
My 1964 Barracuda has the US Cartools weld in and we put a set made with rectangular tubing (welded in)in a friends car. I doubt anyone could tell the difference without looking underneath the car. The cars were equally improved with the different styles. I would recommend to weld and not bolt subframe connectors. They make such an improvement when everything is solidified. The US Cartools look a little nicer installed, the rectangular tubing is less expensive.
Click to expand...
on your 64 barracuda what did you do for e brake cables am doing a 64 barracuda useing usc sub frame connectors original cable is not going to work please reply
 
I used a long cable on the right side and put an equalizer behind the left rear bracket. A tube welded through the subframe connector gets the front cable to the proper location.
 
grimreaper said:
I used a long cable on the right side and put an equalizer behind the left rear bracket. A tube welded through the subframe connector gets the front cable to the proper location.
Click to expand...
do you have info on longer cable part# or year and model am quarantined and can not go to parts store and go through their books
 
I'm sorry but I didn't retain any of that information. What I did was went to the local NAPA and asked to look at their brake cable book
Cable1 (2).jpg
Cable1 (2).jpg
cable2 (2).jpg
cable3.jpg
cable2 (2).jpg
cable2 (2).jpg
. I looked up several models that I thought might be close and then went to their shelf and measured to select the best fit. The one I selected may have been for a 70 Duster or an F-body car....I'm just not sure. I think anything reasonably close would work fine though. I got a piece of 1/2" steel tubing from the rack at Home Depot and used that as the guide through the subframe connector.

cable4.jpg


cable5.jpg
 
grimreaper said:
I'm sorry but I didn't retain any of that information. What I did was went to the local NAPA and asked to look at their brake cable bookView attachment 1715561934 View attachment 1715561934 View attachment 1715561935 View attachment 1715561936 View attachment 1715561935 View attachment 1715561935 . I looked up several models that I thought might be close and then went to their shelf and measured to select the best fit. The one I selected may have been for a 70 Duster or an F-body car....I'm just not sure. I think anything reasonably close would work fine though. I got a piece of 1/2" steel tubing from the rack at Home Depot and used that as the guide through the subframe connector.

View attachment 1715561937

View attachment 1715561938
Click to expand...
 
thank you very much i called usc today and was told the way you did yours is the way their shop does it am doing same they thought something from a 68 dart or so would work thanks again for photos
 
Just finished installing ones I got from JEGS for a 67-72 dart that worked out fine as far as fit.drilling was a task,but now they are all bolted up and will try my hand at welding them in tomorrow.
 
Syleng1 said:
I used a set of Competition Engineering once on a 72 Demon race car. Bolt in style but you had to weld the bushings into the frame. They worked good but that was 25 + years ago. I’m sure the weld in style are better.
Click to expand...
I welded my bolt in style up, used the holes as a plug hole weld and welded the perimeter.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top