From 6 to 8 syl in `66 Dart - tips?

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Dart Ole

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Hey!

I have a 1966 Dart with a 6 syl engine. I would like to change it to a 360 V8.

Would that be a problem, and is there anyone who can give me some tip about what to be carefull about?

My concerns is mostly space, steering and brakes.

Thanks!
 
The 360 fits in the 66's just like the original 273's did but you'll need a list of parts all from a v-8 car. Here's a partial list of things that are different or need to be upgraded for v-8 power;

K member,radiator,wiring harness,transmission, driveshaft,rear end. This list will get the conversation started. More members will chime in with their expertise. (time for work) tmm
 
brakes are not a huge deal, you can upgrade to disc later, if you take it easy they will do just fine

steering will handle the v8 just fine also, but you may want to upgrade the torsion bars adventually

engine, well you will want to go with an oil pan for a later model A body that was factory 360 as the pan is different from a 318, as well is the driverside engine mount and the torque converter

steering link will have to be changed

the rest is simple
 
Welcome to FABO Ole!!!!

You will need the center steering link from a 64-66 V8 car, the k-member doesn't need to be changed, they are the same but the engine mounts will, I used some on my 66 Valiant 340 from Shumacher creative industries. I used my engine wiring harness from the six, worked great on the V8, wires were just a little longer, no biggie. I would highly recommend installing front discs, a newer style master cylinder, V8 torsion bars, and a front sway bar, these will make the car handle WAY better and more fun to drive, not to mention alot safer. Do you plan on using exhaust headers or manifolds?
 
You need to round up a few V8 only items from an early A body car. You will need the V8 style gas pedal assembly as the 6 cyl type is rod actuated and won't work. You also need the drop center link to clear the oil pan. The motor will fit as it is the same dims as a 273. Geof
 
What transmission are you going to use? A 904 will fit, a 727 may require some floor hump mods. Your driveshaft will need to be modified/changed to a new length, any good driveline shop can do this or better yet, build you a new one.
 
Keith, is it possible to run a 904 behind a 360 (or cast crank 340) by just using the B&M offset flexplate?? I was thinking about doing this and it seems the OP may run into this also!! Geof
 
Keith, is it possible to run a 904 behind a 360 (or cast crank 340) by just using the B&M offset flexplate?? I was thinking about doing this and it seems the OP may run into this also!! Geof

I don't think the plate is offset, it just is weighted differently so you don't have to swap torque converters, if you use the plate you can use a internal balanced converter on a cast/external crank. If you run the 360 and 360 converter you don't need the plate.
 
Oops, I meant offset "balanced" flexplate. Me lazy today!!! Thanks for the reply, I think it'll help both myself and the OP. Geof
 
Great respons - thank you all!!!

I will post back later as the project moves forward.

Thanks again.
 
The 360 fits in the 66's just like the original 273's did but you'll need a list of parts all from a v-8 car. Here's a partial list of things that are different or need to be upgraded for v-8 power;

K member,radiator,wiring harness,transmission, driveshaft,rear end. This list will get the conversation started. More members will chime in with their expertise. (time for work) tmm


I thought the K was the same and works with different mount brackets
 
If you want to use the TTI headers, do your homework 1st. You will have some starter options if you use the 904, but if you want the 727 trans then you have to use the $300. RobbMc performance starter. With the 727 trans the floor hump only needs a slight massage. If you have access to a hoist/4 pole you should consider installing the engine/trans as a unit mounted on the K-member. This worked very well for me. Jason
 
Most of the changes you need have already been mentioned but the exhaust is the hardest part of the conversion. The only chassis headers that I've seen the fit good are the Spitfire ones but good luck on getting a pair. If you're willing to cut the inner fenders, you can use fenderwell headers from a variety of vendors. The 273 exhaust manifolds don't fit well on the bigger port 340/360 heads. If you have manual steering, you can use the '68-70 340 exhaust manifolds with some minor mods and custom front pipes.
 
Yeah good luck with the exhaust, I have a 65 Dart I'm trying to figure out what to do with exhaust right now.
 
As with any swap, a V-8 powered parts car of the same age as yours would be the best starting point, so you could swap anything that's different. But these are getting a little harder to find (they're out there so keep your eyes open). Here's a basic rundown of what's needed.

K-member: The 63-66 cars all used the same k-member, so you're fine there.

Steering: The V-8 car center link had a deeper drop to clear the oil pan. Some say they've been able to use the 6 cylinder piece. Commonly 66 cars had the V-8 part, so check what you have.

Radiator: Your core support will accept a standard 22" Mopar radiator. These come in two basic varieties pre-1970 and post-1970. The difference is the location of the lower hose. You can use either one, but must match the water pump, pulleys and brackets. The early iron water pump will bolt to a later engine, but it's lower hose will make the timing marks a little harder to see (not impossible).

Exhaust: The factory 273 iron manifolds only support 250 HP or so, barely adequate for a 2 bbl 273. Headers are a bit of a PITA. Dougs and TTI sell underchassis long tube headers specific to these cars. They fit pretty good, are well made and cost accordingly ($$$$). Hedman makes fenderwell headers, best for a race car, but plenty run them on the street. You have to cut sheet metal, but the cost is substantially lower. There used to be some short style "Spitfire" headers. Made by a guy in his garage. Forget trying to buy these new. Some claim to have adapted various other manifolds; 340, Magnum, later A-body. Never seen any of these myself, so I can't speak to them.

Throttle linkage: The /6 rod type wont work. Look for the 64-66 V-8 cable and pedal bracket. I've seen later car pedals adapted, drill and cut...

Drivetrain: All these cars originally had 904 transmissions, and they fit best. A 727 fits OK but may require a little clearancing of the floor, nothing major. The 7 1/4" rear axle won't last long behind a 360.

Brakes: Most /6 early A-bodies had 9" drums. These were barely adequate when new, and parts are getting scarce for them now. You also have a single circuit master cylinder, which should be upgraded to a dual circuit system. Some will say you can get by with 46 year old, inadequate brakes "for a while", and perhaps you can. Just don't follow me in traffic. UPGRADE

Suspension: Again, there's a safety aspect to doubling the power and keeping 46 year old worn out parts. At a minimum, rebuild the front end and install .870 (commonly available) torsion bars. There are many upgrades from there, but first build a good foundation. The rear is probably pretty tired by now as well.

Plenty of info on this site,the "Search" button is your friend.
 
I'm just getting started on my swap /6 to 318 in the 66, I've been buying parts for over a year the first parts i bought were the disk brakes the 9'' drum brakes are the first thing to go! i want'a be able to stop LOL then tie the frame rails,Like all the others have said gather all your parts first then you will know what your up against.I'm running a 727 in my swap and the magnum manifolds. Have fun with your swap like i am LOL
 

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I'm just getting started on my swap /6 to 318 in the 66, I've been buying parts for over a year the first parts i bought were the disk brakes the 9'' drum brakes are the first thing to go! i want'a be able to stop LOL then tie the frame rails,Like all the others have said gather all your parts first then you will know what your up against.I'm running a 727 in my swap and the magnum manifolds. Have fun with your swap like i am LOL

Do you have a build thread?
 
Kick starting an old thread here, but does all this advice apply to the 360 Magnum as well, or is this just the 360 LA?

This is a great thread, it has all the details for a 360 swap. :thumbsup:
 
I'm running a 727 in my swap and the magnum manifolds. Have fun with your swap like i am LOL
My drivers side ex manifold I tried would hit the steering box. how did you get around that?
 
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