Front "China wall" sealing issue on SBM

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65TerrorCuda said:
Last time I used right stuff on an intake, I couldn't pry it off. Ended up removing the intake with a cherry picker as it lifted the front end. Yeah it's strong stuff
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65TerrorCuda said:
Last time I used right stuff on an intake, I couldn't pry it off. Ended up removing the intake with a cherry picker as it lifted the front end. Yeah it's strong stuff
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All I do is slice the gap with a sharp blade Knife, then it’s easy to pop it off.
Key is slicing the bead first, just work the knife/ razor blade all the way across the front to break the seal, then it’s easy. Never had an issue, always pile on right stuff.
 
And this was a Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap? Or the Edelbrock Performer RPM?
 
Ya need more schmootz...when you take it apart to reseal it use twice as much as you did the first time...sometimes the end gap will look lik e its a quarter inch ad you need enough RTV bead thickness when you set the intake down .
 
First time I put my RPM on my 340 I didn't get enough RTV to fill the china walls. Yes it's a big gap, that's why I just used the cork gaskets there. Cleaned the area real good and put the RTV on the wall and bottom side of gaskets and let sit over night. That way they won't squirt out and hold firm. Next morning RTV it real good especially the corners and skimmed the intake on each ends and around the water ports. Sealed up real good with no leaks.
 
I think I finally fixed it. I piled up some JB into that corner on the underside of the manifold, let it set for a full day then filed it down nearly flush with the block mating surface. Then when reinstalling the manifold I put down extra-tall beads of Right Stuff on the front and back. Driven it a few times now with plenty of WOT revs to near redline and haven't seen a drop of oil in the usual areas, it used to pool on top of the timing cover and track down under the passenger side head then down the bellhousing and leak onto the ground.

Hopefully now I won't need to top up the oil every 500 miles and the engine will actually stay clean.

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MopaR&D said:
I think I finally fixed it. I piled up some JB into that corner on the underside of the manifold, let it set for a full day then filed it down nearly flush with the block mating surface. Then when reinstalling the manifold I put down extra-tall beads of Right Stuff on the front and back. Driven it a few times now with plenty of WOT revs to near redline and haven't seen a drop of oil in the usual areas, it used to pool on top of the timing cover and track down under the passenger side head then down the bellhousing and leak onto the ground.

Hopefully now I won't need to top up the oil every 500 miles and the engine will actually stay clean.

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View attachment 1716171867
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That is exactly how I do mine with right stuff. Works great, no leaks

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RustyRatRod said:
Using cork with RTV is not a good idea. The RTV will act as a lubricant and the cork will slide out from under the intake as you torque it down. If you use anything use something like 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive and glue the cork to the block with nothing on top of the cork. You'll also want to put a small dab of RTV in each corner where the heads meet the ends of the china walls.
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That 3M product is outstanding - I have used it on Several British projects ( Zero leaks )
 
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