front end sits too low

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The torsion bars were installed with the adjuster bolts screwed in to far.
This is why you have run out of adjustment room on the bolts.

Put the car on stands,loosen torsion bar, bolts, back torsion bars out from lower control arm,loosen the adjuster bolts almost all the way out,reinstall torsion bars,tighten the adjuster bolts. Done
Now you should have all the adjustment necessary.

Yup!!
 
The torsion bars were installed with the adjuster bolts screwed in to far.
This is why you have run out of adjustment room on the bolts.

Put the car on stands,loosen torsion bar, bolts, back torsion bars out from lower control arm,loosen the adjuster bolts almost all the way out,reinstall torsion bars,tighten the adjuster bolts. Done
Now you should have all the adjustment necessary.

I've done that before, it didn't make a difference for some reason. It'd have some ride height for a while and over a week or so it'd return to the same height it had before. Adjust and repeat until the adjuster won't go any further.

I've even removed the adjuster bolt, removed the upper ball joint & strut rod and spun the lower control arm down as far as possible to get it in another notch on the bar and then put the adjuster back in and jacked the control arm up to reassemble the front end. That raised the front end, don't know if it would have settled though, that torsion bar broke within a day or two.

What pics do you guys want to see? I'll post them shortly.
 
The torsion bars were installed with the adjuster bolts screwed in to far.
This is why you have run out of adjustment room on the bolts.

Put the car on stands,loosen torsion bar, bolts, back torsion bars out from lower control arm,loosen the adjuster bolts almost all the way out,reinstall torsion bars,tighten the adjuster bolts. Done
Now you should have all the adjustment necessary.
This is exactly what I did years back on one side of my Cuda That broke. The new bar went in & voila, I adjusted it to match the other side and never looked back. That Cuda would leave Camaros in the dust through "S" curves in fact the faster I went the better it handled the turns.
 
Interesting.....Somewhere,somehow it sounds as though the bars are unwinding.
How does the back area look where the bars insert ?
Is there anyway they could be spinning in that area ?
Have you ever tried new bars ?

Sorry if you already answered these questions. Didn't have a chance to re-read your first post. Really at a loss here.
 
I'm a little out of it at the moment, I woke up feeling rough, so bare with me on this.

The torsion bar sockets in the crossmember haven't moved any, infact I welded them in solid to prevent them from turning/twisting because the factory welds looked horrible :D It does seem like the bars are unwinding, or maybe losing their strength.

I also plan on welding in some reinforcement plates that span the length of the crossmember/frame when I install the subframe connectors.

It's always been used torsion bars, just ones that I had as spares for my cars or for future projects. I've thought about getting a set of new .920 or larger bars, but was skeptical about spending the money, if it turned out to make no difference.
 
I've even removed the adjuster bolt, removed the upper ball joint & strut rod and spun the lower control arm down as far as possible to get it in another notch on the bar and then put the adjuster back in and jacked the control arm up to reassemble the front end. That raised the front end, don't know if it would have settled though, that torsion bar broke within a day or two.

That is how it is done, if you didn't do that with your current torsion bars that would explain not having enough adjustment. Back 'em out and put them back in as you explained above. I would say that it was just a fluke that the other bar broke within a couple days.
BTW, this is the "re-clocking" that was brought up in an earlier post.
One other question, when you are doing the adjusting, do you have the front end jacked up with the weight off the LCA?
C
 
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