Front end wonders newbie needs help

[Killer6]

I just did a complete front end rebuild - torsion bars, offset bushings, Lower C.A. bushings, Upper/Lower Ball joints, brake hoses, tie-rod ends. Had an aftermarket sway bar already. I had it professionally aligned and have the same problem; it just feels like I'm correcting the steering a lot to keep it between the lines and turns with no effort whatsoever. Interesting about the steering box adjustment - I'll have to try that. I plan to take it back to get my steering wheel on straight (they didn't) and see if they can get more positive caster. I requested the following, which I found online:
Typ. Performance/Street: Camber=-.5, Caster=+2.5, Toe-in=1/16" to 1/8"
He said he achieved everything but the Camber which is near zero.

Regarding the offset bushings, there seems to be a consensus online that they are not to be installed per the included instructions if you're trying to achieve pos caster. This is what was recommended: (see pic)

Ill try to reply back with anything I find.

View attachment 1715134555

Well You dug up a golden oldie!! Good thing tho', because it was just one of these that never seemed to get a follow-up report or resolution. One thing to keep in mind, is the
effect what the rear has going on that has a HUGE effect on vehicle stability, especially at higher speeds. If You've got "big-n-little's" and the rears are over-inflated the car
will want to wander, and the same imbalance in the T-bars/Rear leaf stack the same. Add spring-eye & shackle bushing type & condition, or an undetected cracked front eye
in one of the main leaves, and the car will be all over the place. We keep 70psi up frt. & 50psi in the rear on My Pop's '76 GMC heavy 3/4ton 4X4 unless I've got some heavy
hauling to do, steady as a rock, not so much with 80psi all around before it's loaded.........

Up front, the worst part of the Mopar box is You can't adjust play out of the needle bearings, only the gear to gear clearance. I fought that in My '72 Swinger and just plain
accepted the fact that it wasn't going to get any better w/o a new or correctly rebuilt unit. The other component is the trademark "over-assist" in Mopar boxes, there are a
number of ways to reduce this, such as reducing pump psi, and different reaction spring-washers in the box.

 

[pishta]

I actually liked the feather touch power steering on m 65 'S'. It was great cruising with one finger on the wheel spoke with your arm hanging on the window ledge..on the original blue streak bias ply tires...that were 30 years old....

 

[kg340]

Maybe that "pump it down" sticky at the top of the page might help you?? I think one of the posters said that Bergman Auto craft sell a kit for p/s pumps.

 

[Tooljunkie]

I can steer my power wagon with one finger, even in 2 feet of snow.

Many old mopars had light steering. Its an acquired taste so to speak.
Some people have a hard time driving my power wagon.

The 59 dodge i repowered and added power steering to, was also very “touchy”. Customer loves it.

 

[67Dart273]

Something else.........cannot tell from your photo but having the rear of the car up in the air "substantially" does not help handling.

As posted, more caster......the "go to" specs are in this article for modern radial tires:

Turn of the screw: front end alignment for performance on classic Mopars

Go down that page look for the "skosh chart"

Folks have already mentioned the "pump it down" article on power steering pressure

Pump It Down....EASY

Should be the pdf "I think"

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct....1714942218/&usg=AOvVaw3bv7eorFEvSPH5tMueD8ek

My Dart before we tore it down, steered GREAT. You want minimum V8 T bars OR BIGGER, some sort of anti-sway bar, and decent rear springs. I "budget built" my rear springs.....took apart the stock 67 spring pack, and a set out of a "junker." Used the longest leafs out of both sets to create one pack with one more leaf. That was a "trial run" but it worked out GREAT. The steering on the car is responsive and "certain" and goes where you point it.

"Generally" you want.........
offset top A arm bushings.......

All the caster you can get in it, then adjust the camber, while trying to leave the most caster "in."

 

[TJman]

Thanks all. I hadn't put much thought into the rear. I have some 11 year old JC whitney HD leafs back there that maybe could use some attention. They look ok, but the bushings could be defective and I wouldn't know. Otherwise I just have the same size wheels front & back and keep things pretty much stock. I did get somewhat used the effortless steering over the one week I drove it. Guess I'll have my leafs looked and - maybe new bushings installed and see what the alignment guy can do with more caster for starters.

 

[TrailBeast]

Something else.........cannot tell from your photo but having the rear of the car up in the air "substantially" does not help handling.

As posted, more caster......the "go to" specs are in this article for modern radial tires:

Turn of the screw: front end alignment for performance on classic Mopars

Go down that page look for the "skosh chart"

View attachment 1715135211

Folks have already mentioned the "pump it down" article on power steering pressure

Pump It Down....EASY

Should be the pdf "I think"

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0ahUKEwjMoPLlqvvYAhVF42MKHWNADAEQFgg1MAE&url=https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/pump_it_down-re-v1-4-pdf.1714942218/&usg=AOvVaw3bv7eorFEvSPH5tMueD8ek

My Dart before we tore it down, steered GREAT. You want minimum V8 T bars OR BIGGER, some sort of anti-sway bar, and decent rear springs. I "budget built" my rear springs.....took apart the stock 67 spring pack, and a set out of a "junker." Used the longest leafs out of both sets to create one pack with one more leaf. That was a "trial run" but it worked out GREAT. The steering on the car is responsive and "certain" and goes where you point it.

"Generally" you want.........
offset top A arm bushings.......

All the caster you can get in it, then adjust the camber, while trying to leave the most caster "in."

It's about time someone posted this.

 

[Killer6]

Thanks all. I hadn't put much thought into the rear. I have some 11 year old JC whitney HD leafs back there that maybe could use some attention. They look ok, but the bushings could be defective and I wouldn't know. Otherwise I just have the same size wheels front & back and keep things pretty much stock. I did get somewhat used the effortless steering over the one week I drove it. Guess I'll have my leafs looked and - maybe new bushings installed and see what the alignment guy can do with more caster for starters.

1) What T-bars are in the front?
2) How many leaves & how thick is each on those HD's? I doubt the bushings are bad already, unless they were tightened when they were hanging w/o shocks, the
torsional stress may have damaged them but.........
3) What shocks are You using?
4) The "general consensus online" is wrong, & the diagram is correct. The arrow indicating the arm's offset means fronts out & rears in for max-caster. The problem
arises when there are other issues w/the body/frame, namely damage/sag/poor manufacture, every car is a little different. So just getting max-caster isn't the only
consideration, You may have one side that needs more camber than caster to get it right. So checking it out with stock bushings first before putting the offsets in is
actually the right, albeit longer & more painstaking, way of doing it.

 

[TJman]

I don't know the thickness of the leafs, but I'm running new .890 torsion bars. Don't know what kind of shocks, but they're 11-12 years old also (should be ok). It feels nice and firm in the front with no body roll at all. Overall, I'm pretty happy. I can turn a swift 90 effortlessly. It just wonders a bit and lacks road-feel. I'll drive it a bit more and at least break it in before I do much else I guess.