Fuel pressure dropping while driving and under acceleration to zero at idle runs 4 lb electric Blue

-

flathead31coupe

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
1,612
Reaction score
292
Location
indianapolis indiana
I have an electric Holly blue fuel pump close to the tank with a hundred micron and a 10 micron stainless steel screen filters. Both are clear. Have been noticing when driving from stoplight to stoplight fuel pressure drops to nearly zero. When I let up and come to an idle it goes back up to 4 lb. 3/8 supply and return to the tank ideas welcome
 
Thanks for the quick reply. I use two fuel gauges. One is liquid fuel on the intake at the regulator and the other one is a mechanical one next to my boost gauge. I don't know how long I've had this issue but I have had problems with the supercharger when it gets hot like 200 210°, it never boils over but started running rough like it was starving for gas. I thought it was ignition issue. Never thought of being gas related after it cooled down. It would run with no problem until it reached an operating temperature. 212 or so. I have a one 90° thermostat in it now. It is a 440 supercharged. I'm not running any boost just normal driving around town.
 
I can adjust it. I was told that with the competition Carter carburetors that six is max on fuel pressure so I've been running it at four and a half..
 
Try to block your return line and see what happens. A Holley blue pump can be run without a return line. I would raise the fuel pressure to at least 6 PSI at idle, 4 PSI is too low for most carburetors, especially a Holley Carb. It seems that either you have a massive amount of fuel returning to the tank and not letting the pump build pressure, your pump is getting weak, or the regulator is not operating correctly (which can cause the massive fuel return to the tank). If you shut of the return line and the pressure goes up, then your pump should be fine and your regulator may be the culprit. If you shut off the return and you still have low pressure I would start looking into the pump itself, or maybe see if there is some blockage in the tank pickup itself. The regulator could have some debris in it that is not allowing it to work correctly, Holley regulators are easy to open and check inside them, the pump is also easy to open on the bottom to make sure you have no debris inside of it. There is a small screen on the inlet side of the pump that I have seen full of junk and can starve the pump. Holley blue/red pump are pushers, they need to be under the fuel level so that fuel basically gets to them by gravity and they just push it on forward, they are very poor at sucking fuel from a fuel tank, they really need to be gravity feed. Also check all the hose connections in between the fuel pump and the pickup, a hose that is a little loose can let in air from the outside and cause a low fuel pressure issue. If everything in the regulator, hoses, pick up etc.. check out, then your pump is probably weak. They have brushes that do eventually go bad, and they can be replaced. Also make sure you have 12 volts going to the pump at all times.
 
Since I have installed a supercharger I have it ran it with any boost due to the fact that it's 30 over and running over 10 and a half to one compression. I have just been driving at normal which doesn't make any boost until it's under a load. It's been a long project. Have tried different things but it started out with a single four barrel. I'm in the process of building a stroked 440 which will be set up to run boost and hopefully I will have the fuel issue resolve before I get the other one put together
 
I get almost the same thing on 100 degree days. Might be vapor lock or getting close to it.

Had a Holley Red that was fussy, switched to a Carter 4070(?) and it slowly gets hot where the Holley would just stop working. The Holley didn't like being a lift pump at all while the Carter tolerates it a little
 
I get almost the same thing on 100 degree days. Might be vapor lock or getting close to it.

Had a Holley Red that was fussy, switched to a Carter 4070(?) and it slowly gets hot where the Holley would just stop working. The Holley didn't like being a lift pump at all while the Carter tolerates it a little
 
Yeah I'm not sure. It was kind of frustrating to be driving along, beautiful and running great and then come up to a stop and start bucking and you know wanting to die and everything and have to pull over but it did that before I went to an electric fuel pump. I haven't really had a chance to drive it much with electric fuel pump to see if it fixed the problem or not because of the fuel pressure issue that I started noticing.
 
I barely use the stuff anymore, but at one point I installed clear fuel line and discovered fuel boiling at every metal point in the fuel system underhood. Switched to a mechanical fan and no more boiling.
3/8 return line, is it a return style regulator? I put a .030" restriction in my return with a cheap non-return regulator(po boy style).
 
What regulator do you have? If it says Holley on it, it’s probably junk. That pump will handle a return line.
 
Keep the Carter carb psi (In post 5) under 5. You wont need to boost reference a draw through carb on top of a supercharger. You could be seeing vaporization of fuel in the line messing with the pressure. Do you have your fuel filter vertical to the carbs? In that way the vapor wont stay in the filter but will seek its highest point, hopefully the carb bowls. I'd make sure you tank is vented too.
 
Carter [ & Edelbrock ] carbs will run with 6 psi all day long. The original Carter spec sheet for setting float level against the fuel pressure goes to 10 psi!
 
Keep the Carter carb psi (In post 5) under 5. You wont need to boost reference a draw through carb on top of a supercharger. You could be seeing vaporization of fuel in the line messing with the pressure. Do you have your fuel filter vertical to the carbs? In that way the vapor wont stay in the filter but will seek its highest point, hopefully the carb bowls. I'd make sure you tank is vented too.
I have two Carter competition carburetors on top. I have a stock type sending unit that is 3/8 into the tank to the tank. Pickup filter. Line comes out down to the lower part of the frame where there is a red Holley fuel pump with a 100 micron filter and a 10 micron filter coming in and out of the Holley fuel pump going up to a fuel lab regulator and I have a 3/8 return line back to the tank.
 
I have an electric Holly blue fuel pump close to the tank with a hundred micron and a 10 micron stainless steel screen filters. Both are clear. Have been noticing when driving from stoplight to stoplight fuel pressure drops to nearly zero. When I let up and come to an idle it goes back up to 4 lb. 3/8 supply and return to the tank ideas welcome

Had that happen at the track and saw it on the data logger for each run. Turned out to be a loose connection at the relay that would just pull away with acceleration and return to make contact when I slowed down. Had many runs where it went to zero many times but only found it by accident after I pulled the motor.

Check every connection
 
I had a little bit of time to look at it. I took the pump apart and checked the screen. Everything looks fine in it. Put it back together. I set the fuel pressure at 5 and 1/2 and it stays at 5 and 1/2 island. But as the RPMs go up past 2000 idling the fuel pressure will drop. I'm not sure what that means it's a fuel lab pressure regulator set up for a return. I have 3/8 line before supply and return and 3/8 through the sending unit into the tank.
 
I had a little bit of time to look at it. I took the pump apart and checked the screen. Everything looks fine in it. Put it back together. I set the fuel pressure at 5 and 1/2 and it stays at 5 and 1/2 island. But as the RPMs go up past 2000 idling the fuel pressure will drop. I'm not sure what that means it's a fuel lab pressure regulator set up for a return. I have 3/8 line before supply and return and 3/8 through the sending unit into the tank.


Which regulator is it? I just looked the 52502 and there is no way I can see how it works. You have an open line back to the tank.
 
After looking at this diagram, I'm not sure if the regulator has an in and out, but with my current configuration it looks like I have it backwards.
PXL_20220815_210426810.jpg
PXL_20220815_210435059.jpg
PXL_20220815_210223491.jpg
PXL_20220815_210413680.jpg
 
The other regulator you see in there is just turned wide open. I'm using it as a t for the carburetor and fuel supply. But if I'm correct by looking at what I have and in the instruction diagram if there is the regulator is directional then I have it plumb backwards
 
With a standard Holley regulator that comes with a blue pump and a 3/8 line back to the tank, he would in fact have an open line back to the tank. That line needs to be closed to see if everything starts working as it should.
 
The other regulator you see in there is just turned wide open. I'm using it as a t for the carburetor and fuel supply. But if I'm correct by looking at what I have and in the instruction diagram if there is the regulator is directional then I have it plumb backwards


I think you are correct. I think you have it plumbed backwards. Which if you think about it, it isn’t really a bad thing. That’s an easy fix.
 
Do you think using that old regulator wide open as a tea for the carburetor fuel inlet is okay? I mean not precise but I don't think it hurts anything
 
Am I seeing this photo correctly? You have the fuel lab regulator on top of a Holley regulator and the fuel lab one is feeding the Holley one?
 
-
Back
Top