Fuel pump parked up hill

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Pawned

Pawned

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If I park the Duster facing up hill, even as slight a pitch as my own driveway, the car will not start. Fuel

If it is parked down hill or level, she starts just fine.
I filled it up at the gas station today, and it was pitched up hill. She would not start. I let her roll backwards to level ground, it starts just fine.

I figure it is the fuel pump, It was new in May of last year.
should I go electric or mechanical???

Ed
 
Unless it has been sitting for an extended period of time, the carb bowls should be full of fueland it wouldn't even need a fuel pump to start . It should be able to run a minute or two just with the fuel in the carb.
 
Fuel pump vacuums/pulls fuel from the tank, that is unless there is a air leak at one of the rubber lines or anywhere else in the supply line. In that case it pulls only air. ( I've seen it before ).
 
forphorty said:
Unless it has been sitting for an extended period of time, the carb bowls should be full of fueland it wouldn't even need a fuel pump to start . It should be able to run a minute or two just with the fuel in the carb.
Click to expand...

There's a nice thought that we all wish was true everywhere. :)
Unfortunatly living in AZ changes that. (Especially in the valley)

Ed, one of the best things I ever did for my first starts is an electric pump.
It is just an average generic pump that I mounted on the side of one of my subframe connectors right under the passenger floor area (my fuel line was exposed right there)
I turn on the ignition and wait a second or two till the pump sound changes, once or twice to the floor with the pedal depending on how cold it is and hit the key.
Fires right up every time.
Just in case you happen run out of gas, the electric pump will get fuel back to the carb a lot faster, and you don't have to even crank the engine.

The only other way to solve that is with an anti drainback valve, but you will still be low in the float bowls till the pump fills it. (Still a delay) but only a bit more than starting it on a flat surface.

One thing you may consider since you live in the valley is to use an electric pump and a constant circulating system.
This way there is always fuel flowing back to the tank, and your fuel will stay a lot cooler.
It helps a ton on the hot days. (Especially with an Edelbrock carb and Ethanol fuel)
Edelbrocks have smaller fuel bowls, and heat soak is a real issue with them.
Even if you don't run an Eddie carb, it makes a big difference for vapor locks and fuel boiling on hot days.
 
The best thing I did --V8-- before going to EFI, concerning hot weather, vapor lock and other related fuel issues was to............

Go to rear mount electric pump. I found an almost new "Red" pump at a good price

Constructed a vapor return system using a Wix 33040/ 33041 filter, which has a built in return port.

Added a thick 3/8" carb isolator under the carb.

If your car has the evaporative system "carbon can" it might be malfunctioning and causing a "no vent" situation

As said, might have pinholes in the feed line.

The "usual suspects," collapsing connnector hoses, partially plugged tank sock, or weak pump,

There are procedures in the shop manuals to check the pump for suction vacuum, output pressure and for volume.
 
TrailBeast said:
One thing you may consider since you live in the valley is to use an electric pump and a constant circulating system.
Click to expand...

Please tell me more about the constant circulating system.

After my last post, I went to measure the pressure put out by my mechanical fuel pump.
I was working blind and thought I knew what was under there. I twisted a fitting right off the pump. Did not think it was a good idea to try and weld it back together :).
I ordered a generic fuel pump that had a filter before the pump. I mounted it a few inches (about 6 ) above the fuel sending unit. Bolted it to the underside of the trunk.
Beside the filter that came with it, I put in a new filter in the same position and the one I had.
The fuel lines were empty and it took about .5 seconds for the gas to splash in the 2nd fuel filter. Wow that was quick.

Without thinking I pulled her out of the garage a left her on the driveway (facing uphill) without giving it a 2nd thought.
An hour or two later, I realized what I did and dreaded trying to start the car. Started like it was brand new factory fresh.
 
Pawned said:
Please tell me more about the constant circulating system.

After my last post, I went to measure the pressure put out by my mechanical fuel pump.
I was working blind and thought I knew what was under there. I twisted a fitting right off the pump. Did not think it was a good idea to try and weld it back together :).
I ordered a generic fuel pump that had a filter before the pump. I mounted it a few inches (about 6 ) above the fuel sending unit. Bolted it to the underside of the trunk.
Beside the filter that came with it, I put in a new filter in the same position and the one I had.
The fuel lines were empty and it took about .5 seconds for the gas to splash in the 2nd fuel pump. Wow that was quick.

Without thinking I pulled her out of the garage a left her on the driveway (facing uphill) without giving it a 2nd thought.
An hour or two later, I realized what I did and dreaded trying to start the car. Started like it was brand new factory fresh.
Click to expand...


second fuel pump?? why is the mechanical one still on the car, it has to be removed
 
Use a Wix 33040 (5/16) or 33041 (3/8) filter. These are Wix numbers, but any brand that is legit should have interchange numbers. They can mount either vertically or horizontally so long as the 1/4" fitting is on top. This must be routed back to the tank.

If your car is new enough to have the evap system on it, this can cause troubles

On my 67, I drained the tank, used my CO2 bottle to fill the tank, using the CO2 regulator, right through the filler tube and after, connected to the outlet line to prove a sure flow.

Used a sheet metal awl to poke a hole through the front face of the tank, and silver brazed a fitting into the tank. You must run a 1/4 or larger line front to rear, and hook this to the 1/4 fitting on the filter.

These WORK. They were OEM on some 440 and 426 hemi cars clear back to 67? and was present on my 70 440-6 car.

318enVkNS5L._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
Pawned said:
Please tell me more about the constant circulating system.

After my last post, I went to measure the pressure put out by my mechanical fuel pump.
I was working blind and thought I knew what was under there. I twisted a fitting right off the pump. Did not think it was a good idea to try and weld it back together :).
I ordered a generic fuel pump that had a filter before the pump. I mounted it a few inches (about 6 ) above the fuel sending unit. Bolted it to the underside of the trunk.
Beside the filter that came with it, I put in a new filter in the same position and the one I had.
The fuel lines were empty and it took about .5 seconds for the gas to splash in the 2nd fuel pump. Wow that was quick.

Without thinking I pulled her out of the garage a left her on the driveway (facing uphill) without giving it a 2nd thought.
An hour or two later, I realized what I did and dreaded trying to start the car. Started like it was brand new factory fresh.
Click to expand...

The recirculated system is done with the fuel filter Del (67Dart273) posted above.
Basically it just returns some of the fuel to the tank with a return line.
This keep cooler fuel in the line and carb, virtually eliminating vapor locks.
My Edelbrock borders on fuel boiling up here when it's 90 and above, so I will probably get around to doing it this spring.

I'm not at home right now, but I can help you find the specifics later when I get home if you need it.
 
What do you guys do to deaden the sound of the electric fuel pump? I tried putting a grommet in the hole and 4 or 5 sheets of rubber between the pump and the car body.

There must be something to use that will not transmit the sound to my ears
 
Pawned said:
What do you guys do to deaden the sound of the electric fuel pump? I tried putting a grommet in the hole and 4 or 5 sheets of rubber between the pump and the car body.

There must be something to use that will not transmit the sound to my ears
Click to expand...


is your pump a solenoid type pump or electric motor type? if its solenoid there should be minimal noise when running, if its electric good luck; there loud and annoying and I wouldn't have one (Holley blue pump and those type)
 
Noise might be "a bit of luck." In the case of OEM, "they," "the thems" can spend time and money to engineer a quiet install.

I mounted my red pump with oversize gromments above and behind the rear axle, hanging from the trunk floor. It was a little noticeable. When I went with the Holley EFI, I moved the pump into the cavity just in front of the rear spring hanger. It's mounted in a rubber pad with a big clamp around it. You can hear it with key on / engine off, but from front seats cannot hear it with engine running. I would guess the trunk floor acts like a sound board.
 
Soft rubber mounting, and wrapped it with some rubber carpet padding and zip ties.
I can hear it before the car starts, but not after.
Just the way I like it.
 
I could always hear the fuel pump very well when on the rear frame rail. I have all mine mounted on the front frame rail in the engine bay now (Walbro EFI type) and can barely hear them w/ engine off. Many people claim they must be near the tank, but mine work fine, plus I can easily access them.
 
I took car of the loud fuel pump. I am still having problems starting in a uphill positios.

The gas station is an uphill at the pumps. I let it roll backwards and stop it on a flat area and it starts right up.
Could it have something to do with the floats in the carb? drawing at straws here
 
has to be carb related if you have electric pump. do you allow the pump to run until it quiets down some before starting?
 
I can not hear it now, I fixed the noise problem. I have a oil pressure switch on it. Do I need to raise or lower the floats?
 
Pawned said:
I can not hear it now, I fixed the noise problem. I have a oil pressure switch on it. Do I need to raise or lower the floats?
Click to expand...

it could be low level which can be checked with the measuring tool that comes with carburetor kits

,
 
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