gas / brake lines

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grassy

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H,

I hope to be able to start working on the car again.

I have been pondering the running of the brake / gas lines and after studying them out of the car, they look like a contortionists worst nightmare.

can I run them straight back without all the double bens, etc.. THis is a runner, not a show girl ?

Thanks
Ian.
 
With my Dart I ran 3/8" aluminum line, lot easier than threading back the originals, of with I have a 3/8" Stainless & Orig. Material doing nothing but collecting dust in the garage.
 
"Straight back?"

What, hang 'em under there like exhaust?

The reason they are run that way is for PROTECTION. Since these cars don't have a "real" frame, you can't tuck them up around the frame.

Consider "what can happen," after you are trapped in the wreckage after the dreaded occurrence.

Rocks on the road flying up and hitting the bottom of the car, or sliding around over the top of a curb

If you ever break a driveshaft (which is the reasoning of the NHRA rules) that thing makes a great hammer to beat on stuff under there
 
Ok. I drove a car for over 30 years that I had rebuilt. It had a ground clearance of 3 inches. I ran the lines down attached to the under body w/o any problems. It also allowed getting at them easy even though I never had the need.

The original lines I took off had two problems. I saw chuffing and I also saw two types of metal touching which is never a good thing.

There are an awful lot of curves in these lines..or built in weaknesses so more of a straight line seems a good thing. Like this out of mopar action this month. I will be running a dual exhaust so I was curious how close you have to be to the rocker panels. I am more concerned about heat.

I have noticed little looped pieces of metal with rubber inserts that can hold a line gently.

Anybody do this ?

Thanks
ian.





mopar0001-X2.jpg
 
Expensive to ship up from thee 'states. I am on a very tight budget. Haven't worked for over 6 years due to a car crash and still in treatment. Going to be asking a lot of questions soon :) One girl in collage..son in two years..Duster low on priorities but really want to get it on the road before son leaves.

Hopefully, I should get my rebuild thread updated.

Really missed this site.

Cheers
GRassy
 
The little metal thingys with the rubber inserts are called adel clamps.
The one thing you need to think about on the factory routing is that it not only kept the lines out of harms way, it also allowed for flex and movement. Wether that flex was in the uni-body or the line itself. Remember, the line is going to move as fluid moves through it and exerts both pressure and or temperature on it.

Quick example is how brake lines never go straight to the master cylinder.
 
Revhendo,

So if I put in a soft curve along the length (like the pic) that will allow some movement will I be ok ?My last car was a uni body design but the sills were in integral stress member.

I was thinking that I probably be as close to the rocker panels as possible to avoid the heat of the exhaust.

Are there any tricks to using or install these adel clamps ? Should I seal the screw after installation ?

Thanks
ian.
 
Revhendo,

So if I put in a soft curve along the length (like the pic) that will allow some movement will I be ok ?My last car was a uni body design but the sills were in integral stress member.

I was thinking that I probably be as close to the rocker panels as possible to avoid the heat of the exhaust.

Are there any tricks to using or install these adel clamps ? Should I seal the screw after installation ?

Thanks
ian.

No real tricks to using the adels. Sealing the screws really depends on where you put them. It couldn't hurt to dab a lil paint in the hole and maybe use touch of RTV. Running down the rocker isn't a bad idea, but remember that you still have to get out to the rocker somewhere from the tank and back into the engine compartment somewhere at the front. The factory didn't put the lines where they did "just because".
 
I purchased a new 3/8's fuel line from fine lines. After struggling to installed I came to the conclusion you have to pull the rear end. So I cut it and installed it in 2 pieces.
 
If you have frame connectors you could run them along those and secure it with Adel clamps.That's what I did, no problems thus far. I did however, think long and hard about it and went through a few different routing variations until I was satisfied it was safe and would not hinder performance. I had a thread about it last summer.

I made sure to get them up and out of the way as best as possible. I have a driveshaft loop so a there is a somewhat better margin of safety on that front. I also put Thermo Tec heat shield sleeves over the lines where it comes close to the exhaust. That was overkill though, there was plenty of space between the line and muffler. Better safe than sorry though. I also put a rubber grommet in the hole where it passes through the frame to prevent chafing.

Consider some of the reasons parts like brake and fuel lines are configured the way they are. There was a lot of R & D involved in every decision to keep people safe. Sure, some things were done for ease of assembly on the line or turned out to be a consequence of a particular design but safety is always the first priority.
 
I have to smile.

Don't get me wrong...I love the car for what it is...but you have to take it for what it is as well.

I bought a non molested, essentially rust free low mileage '75 Duster.

I am quite familiar with non American cars of the same period. ..and compared to the ones I have worked on, workmanship on the Duster (and other american cars of the period) is very crude and there seems to be no pride in their work, Don't get me started on the welding....my K frame is ugly. In stripping the car down we have come to a couple of "what the heck" situations with design.

Who in their right mind would still be using drum brakes in the mid '70s..and head rests ? I can go on but you all own similar cars.

What I am doing with my rebuild is putting some safety into the car.

I honestly think the auto companies did things...and I am not talking just Chrysler, just because they could. The '70s was still a pretty captive market for the big 3.

Anyway,

I wish I could have done the running when it was on the rotisserie but life got in the way. Very good point with the frame connectors..I will be having them installed after the car is back on the road. Rmchrgr, enjoyed your thread. I will have to do more thinking before it all goes together.

Thanks all,
Grassy
 
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