1. pistolpete1934

    pistolpete1934 Member

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    Does anyone have any feed back regarding the Summit GM style distributor on their small block. I know you get what you pay for but even if you have to replace the coil and or module is the rest of the distributor of decent quality? Looks huge!
    Thanx guys...
     
  2. Hellrats

    Hellrats Just another dumbass FABO Gold Member

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    It is big. If you want to go GM style HEI, which work quit well, you can go this route Mopar HEI Conversion and keep your factory distributor. This way you still have the factory advance curve and it's less money.
     
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    • 67Dart273

      67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Well which specific setup are you talking about? There are many ways down this road, some of which are not truly GM or not HEI.

      Many of us use a stock Mopar or performance distributor to trigger a stand alone GM HEI module, either 4 pin or 8 pin or whatever. "A DIY system."

      Some of the 1 piece "ready to run" distributors are not really HEI. Some of the "big GM cap" HEI distributors might be of questionable import quality
       
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      • moparmat2000

        moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Use a mopar vac advance electronic distributor, add this bracket from www.designed2drive.com and a GM HEI 4 pin module.

        Halifaxhops on here redoes mopar electronic distributors
         
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        • vitamindart

          vitamindart Well-Known Member

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          I have that bracket works nice, keeps everything nice and compact
           
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          • moparmat2000

            moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Yep hides it real good. Add a pertronix igniter lll oil filled coil and its almost stock looking.
             
          • RustyRatRod

            RustyRatRod Bla de blizhibliz de blatde blizi bla bla FABO Gold Member

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            The Summit is the same as all the rest that come from China. Don't let that scare you because they are pretty dang good. I've had one in the 351M in my 75 F250 for about 5 or so years now. Runs like a top.

            To me, the HUGE advantage is, IF you have room for that big ole cap, go for it. I say that because replacement parts are available EVERYWHERE. Who doesn't keep a 4 pin Chevy HEI module in stock? Hell, our local WalMart even has them. That's no joke. That's their biggest advantage right there.

            Get a Pertronix? Great! Break down on a Sunday afternoon and get back to me. LOL
             
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            • pistolpete1934

              pistolpete1934 Member

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              thats kinda why i looked at these because of the availability everywhere of the GM ignition parts... just dont know if it will clear A body firewall...
               
            • RustyRatRod

              RustyRatRod Bla de blizhibliz de blatde blizi bla bla FABO Gold Member

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              If it won't, you can do like Del (@67Dart273) said and build your own. It's very easy. There are plenty of diagrams out there to follow, too.
               
            • ed1946

              ed1946 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              I've got the GM one in my 72 with 5.9 magnum motor. I like them because 1 wire hookup.
               
            • Eric Mulay

              Eric Mulay Well-Known Member

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              I have a 1974 duster
              i have one also on my magnum, but,, i can not seam to find a constant HOT wire,
              how did you wire this?
               
              Last edited: Sep 8, 2020
            • 67Dart273

              67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              In what? What car are you installing it in? Dammit people we cannot imagine what you are working on. I don't have the gift of mental telepath, and Rusty cannot ever find his damn crystal ball.

              1943 Supermarine Spitfires use twin magnetos, they don't NEED a hot wire



              ............and if you are swapping a hemi into a '28 Farmall, I have no idea what was done with the wiring......

               
            • Eric Mulay

              Eric Mulay Well-Known Member

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            • 67Dart273

              67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              OK. In these Mopars there is only one source for switched ignition under the hood and it entails TWO wires

              IGN1 or "ignition run" usually dark blue, comes out through the bulkhead, is NOT fused!!! and feeds the ballast, the VR, the alternator field, and some smog doo dads if equipped, as well as electric choke if used.

              BUT THIS GOES DEAD when starting.

              The starting voltage---to the ignition system is........

              IGN2, normally brown. It comes of a separate, dedicated contact on the ignition switch, and feeds to the coil+ side of the ballast resistor

              SO if you are installing an igntion--like HEI--that does not use a ballast, you must jumper the IGN1 and IGN2 together--without separating the other stuff it feeds......and hook that to your new ignition

              "The easy" way to do this is to jumper the ballast connector terminals together and then connect the original coil+ wire to the new ignition.
               
            • Eric Mulay

              Eric Mulay Well-Known Member

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              But won't that give constant power to both lines if you just hook them together? And one isnt supposed to have constant power?
               
            • ed1946

              ed1946 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              This is how I did mine and did away with ballast resister
               
            • 67Dart273

              67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              No. IGN1 is hot in "run." It goes DEAD in "start"

              IGN2 is only hot in "start."

              Why?

              Because when you twist the key to "start" and if there was no IGN2, the coil would see battery at cranking voltage minus the drop through the ballast = VERY low coil voltage in "start" perhaps less than 6V

              So IGN2 jumpers full battery voltage from the key direct to the coil in "start." Since the battery sags during cranking, this means the coil gets around 10.5--11.5V during cranking.
               
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              • Eric Mulay

                Eric Mulay Well-Known Member

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                So.. Connect Q and N?

                20200912_153229.jpg
                 
              • BillGrissom

                BillGrissom Well-Known Member

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                Cheapest is the "ready-to-run" HEI distributor by Ningbo (China), for ~$45 on ebay, by Steve White Performance and others. They also have one for big-blocks (~$60), but not for the slant six. It doesn't use a GM HEI module, but some other 4-pin module, perhaps for a Japanese engine. I have one but never installed. I might instead install an 8-pin GM HEI module under the cover. You also need an e-core coil. I bought one for $20. If you want to stay Mopar, take one from a Magnum V-8 engine (~1998-2002).
                 
              • pishta

                pishta I know I'm right....

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                It uses a Bosch "BIM021/024" 4 pin found in Ford/Nissan/VW. Heavy thermal grease on the bottom bolted on a thick 3/8 AL sink. Must get pretty hot!
                ZvdRY9rcOmGWkeCC7YpbYjLLVX-hnB4pCya1dkKvu3TYVzvRhR9ZEh3HRYGPDYjYuN6Cx9Ie_O0CAcBfZCoyq15Sz3d6gJ1Q.jpg
                 
              • Mattax

                Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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                • abodyjoe

                  abodyjoe Well-Known Member

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                  i think the huge cap will fit tightly with a 2 speed wiper motor (had one on my yellow dart) but not a 3 speed wiper motor..
                   
                • TrailBeast

                  TrailBeast AKA Mopars4us on Youtube

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                  I have one sitting on the shelf and the button was gone completely.:D
                  I JB welded a brass button into the cap.
                  After that I set it up with a stock magnum coil and ended up finding that the way they mounted the hall affect pickup unit in the distributor was for big blocks so the rotor phasing was WAY off. ( an assembly confusion that didn’t get caught)
                  After after redrilling and mounting it in the right place it ran really well, but screw that POS.:D
                  The person I got it from couldn’t get it to run right but couldn’t figure out why.
                   
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                  • Krooser

                    Krooser Reform School Graduate

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                    When we had my kids SBC dirt motor built my son showed up to the engine shop with a TooCanChew GM style dizzy for the engine shop to install.

                    Gary, who owns the shop, told my kid he wouldn't allow that thing on his engine! Too many issues...loose bushings, misfires blamed on the engine builder etc.

                    We went with a stock GM HEI...
                     
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                    • 67Dart273

                      67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      OK!!?? a WHUT?? LOL
                       
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