Not when I ordered one last year.Volaredon, post #16. Be careful when you call BS......
The OP wants a solid ROLLER cam [ not a flat tappet ] & Comp charges the same for a custom or shelf grind.
Not when I ordered one last year.Volaredon, post #16. Be careful when you call BS......
The OP wants a solid ROLLER cam [ not a flat tappet ] & Comp charges the same for a custom or shelf grind.
In the past, present and current systems I can not answer on, the tighter LSA and the computer do not mix very well as the tighter overlap seems to not work very well with the computer. Perhaps confusing it? IDK.Does it matter that my self-learning is disabled since I have a professional tuner? Can a good tuner tune around narrow LSA? Or is it not worth the extra you get from an optimal LSA? Thanks in advance.
Past experiences may have jaded the idea. (?)PRH,
Post #13. Richard Holdener tested three cams in an LS engine, EFI, identical for LSA. Purpose of the test was to see what changing LSA did. From memory, LSAs were 108, 112 & 116.
The 108 cam made more average hp & tq.
I'm plum impressed there's someone with the BALLS enough to run a solid roller and not hide from one under the kitchen table cryin for his mama. Good for you. I bet it'll haul the mail.I am building a stroker 340 with a set of trick flow heads. It's a Molner 3.79 stroke with their H beam rods and Wisco forged pistons. The compression ratio is going to be 10.6:1. OTB Trick Flow Heads with Hughes 1.6 rocker arm. I have an Edelbrock air gap and Victor Jr for intakes (Any input there, too?), and a Holley super stealth sniper. Its going into a duster with a 4 speed and 3.91 gear with a 29" tall tire. Headers are TTI 1 3/4" primary
The car is not a race car but a hot street car that will go down the track a couple of times a year.
The cam in question is a Comp Cams solid roller with .288 duration (.243 @ .050) and .550 lift. Its on a 110 lobe separation.
Any thoughts on this cam? Too small? Too Big? etc...
Thanks,
Jeff
@rumblefish360 and @Bewy Richard Holdener uses the Holley hp ecu on just about everything, and he is only concerned with WOT which the tight LSA would not be an issue tuning for. It’s the idle and drivability tuning that is much more difficult the tighter the LSA gets.
Maybe I am just stupid. I do have some concerns over the valvetrain geometry since it's already a struggle with a flat tappet, but I am confident that I can get it pretty good. I plan on pulling the intake and checking rollers periodically and staying on top of them. Lord knows I have broken plenty of parts in the past and didn't cry over them, so what 16 more? To me, it sure beats the issues with flattening cam lobes.I'm plum impressed there's someone with the BALLS enough to run a solid roller and not hide from one under the kitchen table cryin for his mama. Good for you. I bet it'll haul the mail.
Call Mike at B3 Racing Engines. He's a member here and can get you all set up. @B3RE There, I tagged him for you so maybe he'll chime in. He helped me get the geometry on my modified slant 6 head right after I put 318 valves in it that have .300" longer stems than the slant 6.Maybe I am just stupid. I do have some concerns over the valvetrain geometry since it's already a struggle with a flat tappet, but I am confident that I can get it pretty good. I plan on pulling the intake and checking rollers periodically and staying on top of them. Lord knows I have broken plenty of parts in the past and didn't cry over them, so what 16 more? To me, it sure beats the issues with flattening cam lobes.
Yes, he has helped me in the past and I do plan on contacting him.Call Mike at B3 Racing Engines. He's a member here and can get you all set up. @B3RE There, I tagged him for you so maybe he'll chime in. He helped me get the geometry on my modified slant 6 head right after I put 318 valves in it that have .300" longer stems than the slant 6.
...and you ain't stupid.
I think you've got that kinda wrong. On every single dyno simulation I've ever run, the tighter LSA gives up low RPM torque and power for a higher RPM peak torque and power. Every single time. The wider LSA also broadens and flattens the torque curve. Every single time. I think guys get hung up on peak this and peak that and forget about everything else sometimes. For the street, I'd choose a 110 or possibly even wider LSA. .....now here come the Vizard rule guys to tell me how wrong I am. Chrysler factory engineers used 113, 114 and 115 lobe seperations, so they can call them stupid, too. lolI appreciate all your input, and although a tighter LSA would give me better all-around power and better low end, maybe this cam with a 110 LSA might be better for the street since I am using EFI and have a 4-speed.
Good. He's a super guy. Genius even.Yes, he has helped me in the past and I do plan on contacting him.
I have done 5 now and they all are great. One of them is a tunnel ram 440 with duel Holley sniper and it’s a dream to cruise around.cams with lotta over lap that cripple vacuum is known to give efi issues with idling and low rpm driving. computer needs a good vacuum signal to read to know what to give engine....in theory, i have no experience but have studied efi a lot as id like to try a sniper or 2 out my self one year...
There is a reason 90% of shelf cams are ground on a 110 LSA. It’s a good compromise for an all around, “do everything” camshaft. Sure if you were picking the fly poo out of the pepper and wanted to have “the perfect” (news flash, there is no perfect cam for every situation) cam ground, I’m sure a grinder could probably come up with a different spec but honestly the 10lb/ft down low or the 10hp up high you aren’t going to notice in a street/strip car. Use what you have. If you want the engine to do something different change the cam later on.I appreciate all your input, and although a tighter LSA would give me better all-around power and better low end, maybe this cam with a 110 LSA might be better for the street since I am using EFI and have a 4-speed.
Yup the 110 will fall directly in between them. I’ve tuned a few LS cars where guys have installed “choppy” low lsa wide duration split cams and imo they do it mostly for sound. After a while of driving the car they seem to want a different cam because the sound isn’t worth the drivability headache. Especially with a stick shift.Between the (Red) 108 & (Green) 112?
I agree. It’s drivers choice. I’ve installed 112 LSA cams on purpose before for the smooth idle and easy take off. IMO, it’s not a bad thing. Works great on a driver you want to drive as if it was stock.
Even more so when max power isn’t really the goal, or care.
That 120 LSA takes a beating!!!
Usually on a more serious effort you’ll see that huge lsa carry a bit more (longer) up top than it did in that test. I think that was more a function of a relatively mild combo running out of cylinder head as they all roll over about the same spot. Maybe some valvetrain instability happening there as well.That 120 LSA takes a beating!!!
Usually on a more serious effort you’ll see that huge lsa carry a bit more (longer) up top than it did in that test. I think that was more a function of a relatively mild combo running out of cylinder head as they all roll over about the same spot. Maybe some valvetrain instability happening there as well.