Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I have the same one.
Good Initial Timing and Too much Total Timing Problem. Seeking guidance to minimize total timing. 1969 Swinger 340 4 Gear
- Thread starter Cubzy
- Start date
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So do I and I've measured it against the engine itself and it's right on it.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I have to get me a new lead soon I let it get in the manifold and melted it. Now it's a pain to keep on the plug wire. Lol
Good Candidate for a Sticky Thread! Thanks FABO Brethren!
It's easy to do if you don't watch it!
Best thing to do is clamp it up by the distributor.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Lol yep learned the hard way on that one! That's what I started doing after I fried mine! Hahaha
rebelcaptain
Active Member
2600rpm 50 total with everything hooked up.
You're getting vac + mechanical advance
rebelcaptain
Active Member
57 is too much. That's why it's pinging. Set 35 with vac hose disconnected at 2600. Should make 50 when hose is hooked up
Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see where it was pinging.
57* at cruise is NOT excessive. At cruise, the engine is under the least amount of load. Some of the 57* is coming from the VA, & some/all of that amount reduces as you load the engine & vacuum drops.
57* at cruise is NOT excessive. At cruise, the engine is under the least amount of load. Some of the 57* is coming from the VA, & some/all of that amount reduces as you load the engine & vacuum drops.
You need to read the entire thread. 57 is not too much with the vacuum can connected sitting still and not under load.
In fact, up in the 60s is not uncommon with the vacuum advance hooked up at cruise under no or very little load, or sitting stationary with the engine at RPM. It's all covered in the Mopar Performance Engine manuals. All you have to do is READ.
I picked up my first antique dial back (snap on) light. I measured the total and it was about 61 with the VA can attached at some about 2000 to 3000 rpm.
It is a CAP dual point dist. And set at 5 before, spec is 5 after so it is 10 advanced over spec. That would have had it at 51 total with vacuume advance.
Engine runs as good as it can, 170,000 miles on last rebuild.
Around 51 is typical for a smallblock (LA) cruising at high speed. Its in the FSM and its on the 1980s and early DC/MP instructions. I've posted those in the How To section. B/RB typically a little more - again listed on the instructions from ma mopar.
The OP has found that his combination is too much under certain conditions. The next step is to measure and plot out the timing and see what the combination is at the rpms where the pinging occurs.
This engine is non-std & has a non-factory carb & headers, both visible in the pic. Does it have other mods? So factory settings can only be useful as a guide once engines are modified.
Even absolutely stock engines can benefit from 'tweaking'. That is because the car maker, not knowing the end use of the car, has to be conservative with the ign timing curve/settings to cover the worst case scenario.
Even absolutely stock engines can benefit from 'tweaking'. That is because the car maker, not knowing the end use of the car, has to be conservative with the ign timing curve/settings to cover the worst case scenario.
Well got some more data. I changed spark plug wires today then checked my timing again.
Initial Timing 12degrees at 700rpm
Total Timing 40degrees all in at 2100rpm.
Both number are with the vacuum line disconnected and plugged at the carburetor and distributor canister.
Please let me know what I should do? Should I try retarding the timing 2degrees so I’m at 10 initial and maybe total will be at 38degrees? I still have a bog to get the car rolling from a stop(4 speed manual car). Thanks
Initial Timing 12degrees at 700rpm
Total Timing 40degrees all in at 2100rpm.
Both number are with the vacuum line disconnected and plugged at the carburetor and distributor canister.
Please let me know what I should do? Should I try retarding the timing 2degrees so I’m at 10 initial and maybe total will be at 38degrees? I still have a bog to get the car rolling from a stop(4 speed manual car). Thanks
I'd pull the distributor and see what type of advance mechanism it has. Sorry.
The advance is way too quick and too much, even without vacuum advance.
If you have no choice, try running it at 8*BTDC 700 - 750 rpm, and don't use the vacuum advance. That will get you by until you can see if it can be adjusted and recurved, or you can get a different distributor.
The advance is way too quick and too much, even without vacuum advance.
If you have no choice, try running it at 8*BTDC 700 - 750 rpm, and don't use the vacuum advance. That will get you by until you can see if it can be adjusted and recurved, or you can get a different distributor.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
You need to limit the mechanical advance in the distributor. There are multiple ways to do it. Fbo plate weld the slots. The newer aftermarket style distributors have a torque screw you loosen and adjust it that way.
This distributor is an ‘’Accel’’. Does anyone know if I can limit timing on this one? What type of improvements might I see once I get total timing reduced?
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Im not sure how they adjust. I have a proform. It adjust with the screws. Which is very nice I like it better than the slots.
I agree. He needs to limit total advance "somehow" if the engine is wanting more than 12 and it sounds as it it is.
rebelcaptain
Active Member
Since there are no marks on the distributor weight settings, I wonder if adjusting the total timing weights can be done with the distributor in place, so that one can more easily start the engine and check the results?
rebelcaptain
Active Member
You might try [using an allen wrench placed into the hose port] adjusting the vac canister spring. The spring will adjust 8 full turns, stop to stop. Tightening the spring [clockwise?] will slow the VA if advance coming on too quick. I would check the initial setting before I make any adjustments, by counting the number of turns left and right.
rebelcaptain
Active Member
Vacuum Canister Basic:
CCW turns = higher vacuum needed to begin adding advance [later advance]
CW turns = lower vacuum needed to begin adding advance [sooner advance]
*Neither effects rate of advance
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