Grinding, " diesel " noise under valve covers

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Sounds like a plan. I'm gonna pull the VCs.then cut that open. Wonder what the best way to cut it open, without adding metal to it. Used the search gimmick here,nada
 
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Rockers? Rubbing?nahhh. Wish that was it. Converter to.flexplate bolts are there. Still.makes the noise in neutral ( I seem to remember a truck I had that would kinda grind part way in park. Tried moving balancer w/ 2' bar on k member.

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Crawled under it running. Caint really hear it down there.... I'm going crazy ( crazier). And here's the thing, I caint really remember it not doing it. But it all hinges on that damn dizzy with to much advance.my Bro said it didn't sound like that when we shoved it in this body. Said it sounds like to much timing. Cranked the timing down. The sounds still there. The mill don't have 3000 miles on it I'll bet.
 
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Ironracer said:
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It sounds like a rotating noise. Something rubbing or grinding the balancer, timing chain/gears or distributor/oil pump drive. It grinds as something spins. It should be fairly easy to narrow down. Noises from the front are hard to hear from the rear. Same with top and bottom. Think back and what exactly have you done to it just before the noise started.
 
I really haven't done anything. Put the Rick.E dizzy in last year, when I pulled it outta the 66 Sat. Timing chain is a Cloyes double set. Wouldn't hurt to check for slack though. Haven't done Anything to the reciprocating mass since we screwed it together
 
Did you change the timing set? I put a Cloyes on my 340 and it tore up the the oil slinger, I don't remember it making that much noise but who knows?
 
12many said:
I can hear what I think it is your video depicts. I’m gonna put my chips on “fuel pump”. Final answer:drama:
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How do I test for/ diagnose that? Wait a second! That may not be the Carter pump I put on it originally. That maybe some junk from advance auto... when I got the body, it was supposed to be a lot of things it Wasn't, so had issues w/ fuel delivery until I replaced tank, sender, and did a 3/8 line upgrade. Damn things looked like a rotted / clogged cast iron sewer line! But that was over a year ago
 
Ironracer said:
How do I test for/ diagnose that? Wait a second! That may not be the Carter pump I put on it originally. That maybe some junk from advance auto... when I got the body, it was supposed to be a lot of things it Wasn't, so had issues w/ fuel delivery until I replaced tank, sender, and did a 3/8 line upgrade. Damn things looked like a rotted / clogged cast iron sewer line! But that was over a year ago
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it was just a wild guess as to being a possible culprit. The only way to make sure the lever is still tight on its pivot pin or that there’s not something amiss on the mechanicals is to remove and inspect it even though it still pumps. Doubtful it is the issue but you never know
 
Get a long 3/8 extension. Go around the engine sticking it on everything. Alternator, fuel pump, everything. Stick the other end against your ear. You WILL zoom in on it.
 
12many said:
it was just a wild guess as to being a possible culprit. The only way to make sure the lever is still tight on its pivot pin or that there’s not something amiss on the mechanicals is to remove and inspect it even though it still pumps. Doubtful it is the issue but you never know
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Hey, it's 2 screws and 2 bolts. So rip it off there, and wiggle the lever?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Get a long 3/8 extension. Go around the engine sticking it on everything. Alternator, fuel pump, everything. Stick the other end against your ear. You WILL zoom in on it.
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Longest I have is a 10". Should I go pick up a longer one? Or can I stack them? Lol
 
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Ironracer said:
Longest I have is a 10". Should I go pick up a longer one? Or can I stack them? Lol
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Yes you can stack them. A single longer one works better but stacked ones will work too.
 
Thanks! Went out with the 10". Almost sounds like the lifter valley/ cam chest, but that's with a regular ear. Haven't found anything with the ext. Yet.. did lay hands on the fuel pump. Not sure if they are supposed to have a noticeable "hit" when you grab em w/ the mill rollin.
 
Sounds like knock, spark knock, piston scuff, and valves kissing. All sound similar..dull/hollow knock.
Check to see how much spring clearance.
Do you feel it with your hand on the cover?
 
Aww man..... fudge..... reckon so? From.the HI tev dizzy? If that's the case, they are old TRWs. Will it be OK? Is there gonna be metal destroying my crank and bearings? Could it be the cam grinding the bearings? Can I still run it? .hard? And still have reliability?
 
Ironracer said:
Aww man..... fudge..... reckon so?
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I'm not the final say, just a prediction.
Maybe you'll see piston to head contact. Idk the motor...but if it was scuffing you can see it from the bottom/ oil pan side.
With a stethoscope you will hear it prominently around the plug area on the cyl head. You won't hear much if at all at the pan rail .
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I'm not the final say, just a prediction.
Maybe you'll see piston to head contact. Idk the motor...but if it was scuffing you can see it from the bottom/ oil pan side.
With a stethoscope you will hear it prominently around the plug area on the cyl head. You won't hear much if at all at the pan rail .
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Couldn't hear anything under the car. Jacked it up, fired it, and crawled under. It's quite down there
 
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