Grinding, " diesel " noise under valve covers

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Doesn`t take long to pull rocker shafts. If push rods are rubbing you`ll see shine sections where it is.
I think your noise is deeper in the engine.
Might want to buy a complete gasket kit, I think your going to need it before it`s all over.
 
mopar head said:
Doesn`t take long to pull rocker shafts. If push rods are rubbing you`ll see shine sections where it is.
I think your noise is deeper in the engine.
Might want to buy a complete gasket kit, I think your going to need it before it`s all over.
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Arrgghh.. I'm still hoping for piston slap, at this point... if I need a gasket set, sounds like I'll need a Complete rebuild. Rip it all apart. Clean, inspect/ measure it all... Rings, rods, main, and cam bearings.... or am I just gonna fix the issue at hand? Whatever the heck that is! Didn't see any Shine, but the light on the oil, they all rotated freely between my thumb and finger. No pressure. One was tight, I gave that to the engine cycle
 
Ironracer said:
Arrgghh.. I'm still hoping for piston slap, at this point... if I need a gasket set, sounds like I'll need a Complete rebuild. Rip it all apart. Clean, inspect/ measure it all... Rings, rods, main, and cam bearings.... or am I just gonna fix the issue at hand? Whatever the heck that is! Didn't see any Shine, but the light on the oil, they all rotated freely between my thumb and finger. No pressure. One was tight, I gave that to the engine cycle
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The only to fix piston slap is bore the block and new pistons. That's why I said I'd leave it alone if you determine that's what it is. Most real HP engines from the factory had a little piston slap anyway, due to high compression and full floating wristpins.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The noise isn't valve train related.
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Ok Rob. I'm Sorry, I'm chasing ghosts... So, at this point, I'm gonna break it down..i borrowed a mechanic stethoscope, and an endoscopic tool. My buddy ain't even used it yet. And he wants me to " cushion it " w / electrical tape, but said Don't block the side camera.
1) haven't warmed up to Op Temp, to " listen " for piston slap. Is there any specific area to listen to
2) I ain't cut the oil filter
3 )MOPAROFFICIAL said to listen to the bottom. Of head, next to spark ug, Scuffed Piston
4) I have no idea if it's a cam bearing issue or not. I hear it on both banks, but loud over cam chest in front of carb. All tests have been with Human ear, only mine..I Tried the 3/8 extension, nothing. Havent tried the stethoscope yet... ol Lady's sister got diagnosed w/ colon cancer/ lung cancer. Surgery tomorrow, but they said " they dunno what the outcome " will be. So I don't have help from my GF.
My Friend Doug,.a Ford Guy, one of best friends, has helped me spin Many a Wrench. And I've helped him too. With our job, and rain Thursday, looks like Friday will be the day we attack this.... Any Input on proceeding from here?
As Always, Thanks!
 
RustyRatRod said:
The only to fix piston slap is bore the block and new pistons. That's why I said I'd leave it alone if you determine that's what it is. Most real HP engines from the factory had a little piston slap anyway, due to high compression and full floating wristpins.
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Yessir. The noise don't bother me like that! I ain't a quite one! These have C clips, if I remember. Is there any way to " lock down" that? After warm er up and listen? Noise Don't bother me, the thought of killing my mill real does!
 
So the plan is (let me know if I need to modify, add procedures, etc
I'm gonna warm er up, listen, then dump the oil ( don't have many miles on it, but it's darn dirty
Cut the oil filter, change oil, run it, remove fuel pump, run it and listen.
Then reinstall, and monitor. Probably need a new pump anyways. Then, at what point do I check other items..?
 
Ironracer said:
Yessir. The noise don't bother me like that! I ain't a quite one! These have C clips, if I remember. Is there any way to " lock down" that? After warm er up and listen? Noise Don't bother me, the thought of killing my mill real does!
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Wait until you can start it up and let run a long time and get completely warmed up. If it subsides, it's piston slap. Stop this insanity until you're able to do that. Then if it doesn't quieten down some, you can go insane.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Wait until you can start it up and let run a long time and get completely warmed up. If it subsides, it's piston slap. Stop this insanity until you're able to do that. Then if it doesn't quieten down some, you can go insane.
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GOD BLESS YOU ROB!!!!!!! Brother, your Absolutely Correct.... and I Believe, if You had a printed version of " Rustys Guide to HotRodding Bliss" I rekin it'd be covered, probably many times..... Thank You. ..
 
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Haven't read all 7 pages, but only makes the noise in neutral?
Check out the the crank thrust end play. Lever crank back & forth; thrust brg might be worn causing c'weights to make contact with the block.
 
No Sir, I checked the " noise " in park ,then N. New motor, 12. Years ago. Less than 3000 miles. Was a daily driver for less than 2 years. No track use, but, hole shots are fun! As, per , another member here said. " thrust bearing, aka Center Main. Took a 2 'bar and pried forward off the K. Only movement I saw, after putting arm.to it, was " maybe" the balancer lifting the rubber.
 
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OK, but makes no difference, N or P. What I was getting at is that in gear the crank is 'loaded', where as in N [ or P ] it isn't. So the crank might move slightly, in gear under load, enough to make contact.
 
No. Factory endplay, not sure for THAT engine, but most is in the 0.002-0.010" region.
To cause your problem, I would expect that to have increased to 0.030" or probably larger. That larger size is more easily seen with the naked eye.
With the engine off, try using a pry bar behind the dampener to lever the crank forward. Then, try levering it back. Might have to rig something up [ block of wood? ] against the frame to lever it rearwards. A helper would be handy, one watches the crank movement, one does the muscle work.
 
No eye seen movement, fore. Rear, wasn't able to able to get a bite. But , the " wood block" idea is great! Maybe w/ some ratchet straps, or, something, I can make a " pry point". So , I'm also looking to put a magnet dial indicator on balancer? For.# s? Thanks, Bewy! Hope Y'all are Staying Strong there! Much Appreciated Brother!
 
RustyRatRod said:
The only to fix piston slap is bore the block and new pistons. That's why I said I'd leave it alone if you determine that's what it is. Most real HP engines from the factory had a little piston slap anyway, due to high compression and full floating wristpins.
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Could piston skirt coatings help quiet the OP's piston slap down, if that what it is?
I know it won't eliminate it but it could make it more livable.
 
Pretty sure we haven't seen pictures of the right side head w/o the cover, post some up when you get time.

Cheers
 
It's probably gonna be a few days, although if I get home before dark, tomorrow,I'll pull it..I'm beat up from working on a 2nd story hanging siding. Haven't done that in over 20 years..
 
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UPDATE!!!!!!!
So, I warmed her upto around 180 and a Lil less... A Little noise may have disappeared. Still have a "diesel " noise, not as pronounced, ( maybe) lol. Here's what the mech stethoscope " told me", sound is loudest on top of steel " Direct Connection" re pop covers. Same sound on rocker shaft. MP HD rockers... a .002 feeler gauge will drag through some pairs, some not, depending on position when placed next to spark plugs, just kinda a " wirring" mechanical sound. On one, I may have hit the plug, I dunno where (it was getting dark, under power booster) but it Was Loud! Repositioned, and was the same.as the rest.....
 
bobscuda67 said:
Could piston skirt coatings help quiet the OP's piston slap down, if that what it is?
I know it won't eliminate it but it could make it more livable.
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Not much at all I wouldn't think. But gosh, that's a real labor intensive attempted fix! lol
 
Ironracer said:
UPDATE!!!!!!!
So, I warmed her upto around 180 and a Lil less... A Little noise may have disappeared. Still have a "diesel " noise, not as pronounced, ( maybe) lol. Here's what the mech stethoscope " told me", sound is loudest on top of steel " Direct Connection" re pop covers. Same sound on rocker shaft. MP HD rockers... a .002 feeler gauge will drag through some pairs, some not, depending on position when placed next to spark plugs, just kinda a " wirring" mechanical sound. On one, I may have hit the plug, I dunno where (it was getting dark, under power booster) but it Was Loud! Repositioned, and was the same.as the rest.....
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I think it's piston slap. Is the car where you can actually drive it and get it heat soaked really good? If it's quietening down at all, I vote for piston slap. IMO, that's an acceptable noise for a true HP engine to make. Not necessarily "wanted" but acceptable.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I think it's piston slap. Is the car where you can actually drive it and get it heat soaked really good? If it's quietening down at all, I vote for piston slap. IMO, that's an acceptable noise for a true HP engine to make. Not necessarily "wanted" but acceptable.
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No Sir, I haven't tightened the LCA or Struts yet. I did a drive way Alignment. But need a level spot to set ride height. Alignment place is about a mile, Lil less.. I did shut her off, and let her heat soak a Lil. Temp didn't raise tho..
 
Ironracer said:
No Sir, I haven't tightened the LCA or Struts yet. I did a drive way Alignment. But need a level spot to set ride height. Alignment place is about a mile, Lil less.. I did shut her off, and let her heat soak a Lil. Temp didn't raise tho..
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It's really not gonna heat soak without some prolonged stop and go.
 
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