My 63 Dart makes a loud noise when I turn left. It looks like there is some friction between the drum and backplate all the brake hardware mounts to. The wheel feels loose, but if I tighten the axel nut to the point where the wheel is sung, then the bearing wont roll freely because its too tight. I think these is a spacing issue and maybe i need to add washers. Or maybe something is too small and wore down over time. I recently had the entire front suspension replaced, and I have not been driving the car in fear I will damage it. Can some one please give me some advice or suggestions? Dont know how to fix this one. Thanks
Grinding Noise When I Turn Left...Need Help!
- Thread starter 90291DART
- Start date
-
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
Sounds like you have a bad bearing.
1968dartman
life is getting better!!
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Whatever you do, DO NOT drive the car!!!!
There is only one washer in the wheel bearing/ hub/ spindle assembly, and that is immediately under the nut. It certainly didn't fall out, unless someone left it out
Here's a link to a 65 and a 66 shop manual
[ame]https://www.dropbox.com/s/upks33txhbe9tjw/1965%20Plymouth%20Service%20Manual.pdf[/ame]
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1966_Plymouth_Service_Manual.zip
However, they do not have decent exploded views of the parts.
This is a drawing I found "on the net."
The inner and the outer bearing cups are pressed/ driven into the hub. The cups can wear and gall, and wear themselves a cavity in the hub and become loose.
The inner bearing can destroy the spindle and become loose, or possibly is the wrong part and too large for the spindle
If the washer is missing---and it MUST BE KEYED to prevent rotation, this might account for looseness.
It is IMPERATIVE that you properly learn how to adjust the nut.
According to my 67 book, you install all the parts, and WHILE TURNING THE TIRE or brake drum, you tighten the nut to 70 inch pounds Then you install the castle over the nut, such that one slot is lined up with the cotter-key hole in the spindle. Then you back the nut off so that the castle rotates back ONE slot.
I do this slightly different, I like to "snug" the bearing up FIRST just to be sure that everything is "in" and then back off and retighten to the lighter torque. It is IMPORTANT not to either over or under tighten these bearings.
There is only one washer in the wheel bearing/ hub/ spindle assembly, and that is immediately under the nut. It certainly didn't fall out, unless someone left it out
Here's a link to a 65 and a 66 shop manual
[ame]https://www.dropbox.com/s/upks33txhbe9tjw/1965%20Plymouth%20Service%20Manual.pdf[/ame]
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1966_Plymouth_Service_Manual.zip
However, they do not have decent exploded views of the parts.
This is a drawing I found "on the net."
The inner and the outer bearing cups are pressed/ driven into the hub. The cups can wear and gall, and wear themselves a cavity in the hub and become loose.
The inner bearing can destroy the spindle and become loose, or possibly is the wrong part and too large for the spindle
If the washer is missing---and it MUST BE KEYED to prevent rotation, this might account for looseness.
It is IMPERATIVE that you properly learn how to adjust the nut.
According to my 67 book, you install all the parts, and WHILE TURNING THE TIRE or brake drum, you tighten the nut to 70 inch pounds Then you install the castle over the nut, such that one slot is lined up with the cotter-key hole in the spindle. Then you back the nut off so that the castle rotates back ONE slot.
I do this slightly different, I like to "snug" the bearing up FIRST just to be sure that everything is "in" and then back off and retighten to the lighter torque. It is IMPORTANT not to either over or under tighten these bearings.
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
I made the mistake of driving on a bad wheel bearing ONCE, welded the race to the spindle .......
joeboy
Well-Known Member
I agree with bearings, but I have also had a balljoint grind on turns. Remember to check the opposite side as well... when bearings make noise turning L it can be from the R side as body roll will send more weight/pressure to the outside wheel.
JOE
JOE
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
X2, even the rear. Good to have a friend stand outside the car while driving left/ right say, in a parking lot or other big area
Thanks for all the input and info!
Ok so I replaced all the wheel bearings when the brakes were rebuilt. However I am going to take everything apart this weekend and reinspect all parts. Hopefully its an easy fix.
If I am unable to fix the problem I will repost for more help
Ok so I replaced all the wheel bearings when the brakes were rebuilt. However I am going to take everything apart this weekend and reinspect all parts. Hopefully its an easy fix.
If I am unable to fix the problem I will repost for more help
I have a feeling there may be issues with the bearing cups. I am not sure if these were replaced. Are those going to be difficult to remove because they are pressed in? And will it be hard to press new ones in properly?
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
You should have installed the new races with the bearings. You just tap them out from inside the rotor. I use a peice of wood or a socket to tap them back in.
Nappa82
Well-Known Member
You could do what I did and go rent a race puller. I broke it on the first couple tugs and ended up pounding them out with a flat punch. Also rented a race installer that worked amazingly. When using the race installer use one that is a few sizes bigger to get it flush before you pound it in the rest of the way with the correct size.
-
