hairline crack rear end housing

[69340]

Hi members has anybody had this issue. i changed gear set from 323 to 391 on my dart . 83/4 721 case. I used a replacement rubber gasket and of course there was a slight leak. checked the bolts and retorqued to spec still dripped when parked. I removed the rubber gasket and was just going to use silicone and noticed a small hairline crack on the very bottom of the face of the housing.Has anybody tried to repair a crack like this with an epoxy and sand the area flat.I dont really want to remove the axle housing if i dont have to. I suppose i could grind out the crack and weld it and sand to. Any comments or experiences are welcome.

 

[69340]

No comments?. I thought this would of happened to other members. i will put picture in tommorow.

 

[Bad Sport]

I will put picture in tomorrow.

That may help.

 

[ironram]

i would gring and weld it it epoxy might not hold up with heat and expansion.

 

[Bulldozer]

i would gring and weld it it epoxy might not hold up with heat and expansion.

xs2 weld that puppy up.it will probably continue to crack if you dont.

 

[SirDan]

weld it or use JB weld or Yamabond, obviously clean the surface well to promote adhesion.

 

[500stroker]

use green bearings they are sealed and wont let oil get past

 

[Bulldozer]

use green bearings they are sealed and wont let oil get past

hey 500stroker, nice hot dog avatar lol

 

[72BBSwinger]

Drill some 1/8" holes, one at each end of the crack, then weld it all up. The holes will end the crack.

 

[ardentindustries]

Drill some 1/8" holes, one at each end of the crack, then weld it all up. The holes will end the crack.

Was going to be my suggestion too. I usually drill the hole slightly past where you can visually see the end of the crack, as the crack probably becomes invisible to the naked eye, before it actually ends. Drill your two holes, grind out the crack slightly, weld it weld, then grind smooth, and finish it off with a scotch brite pad on a angle die grinder. Shouldnt have any more issues after that.

 

[fishy68]

JB weld is real good stuff but for a rearend that transfer's a lot of torque I highly doubt it'll hold for ever. I'd do what was suggested to drill a small hole at each end of the crack (to prevent it from cracking farther) and weld it up.

 

[69340]

thanks for all the advice guys. I think grinding it out and welding it seems to be the way to go. I was thinking of using a product made by Devcon. It is a 2 part epoxy steel that is sandable and may also work. As usual always nice to here what others are doing.
thnaks FABO members

 

[fishy68]

If it's the same Devcon product I'm familiar with it is as tough as nails. I haven't compared the 2 (JB and Devcon) but they told me it's better than JB. I used to be a mobile forklift mechanic for Hyster in St.Louis and serviced forklifts at Devcon. It was an extremely sloppy place to work and I remember very well one time going into check the brakes on one of their lifts. It had been setting for a few days and the brake drums were glued on so tight I couldn't budge them with two 5' pry bars and a helper, LOL... I laugh now but it sure wasn't fun then. Had to send it in to the shop and they had to torch the drums off. Even knowing what I know about Devcon I think welding is the way to go because that'll stop the cracking (if you drill each end) where-as a devcon or JB weld job most likely won't.