HDK Tubular Coil Over for Stock Steering

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Old Man Mopar said:
You might want to take a look at this thread if you have not already:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=309417
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Thanks for that. They do look good the green machine has had a lot of work. I was hoping to keep my k member and it appears the front rails have been beefed up a lot on that machine. you can see the unused holes on the right hand side through the rails for the steering box.
I was looking to use the existing bolts and holes for the k member to mount the hoop.
I was also looking at tying in a brace from the hoop going over the top (part of shock mount) to the top corner of the fire wall, and triangulating with a brace to the area of the hoop bottom rear. Tyre clearance becomes an issue but I think it could be done. Rather than welding to the fire wall I was looking at the brackets that are used for the front eye of the rear spring one in each corner. That would mean four holes each side of car through the fire wall and a backing plate on the inside right in front of the air boxes both sides.
I was even looking at a brace going from shock mount to shock mount going over the top rear of the motor like boomerang and the possibility to even have a bracket in the centre tying that also to the firewall. My car is the early type with the wiper motor under the dash not engine bay so the fire wall is flat and clear of crap.
My intention was to make it all removable and at this stage I'm looking at anything for ideas.
I probably shouldn't have put in my two cents worth with the comment but seeing what others do can only help us all.
Regards
 
topbrent said:
Just wondering if a gusset on the attachment point for the strut rod might be appropriate. QA1 has the tube for the strut rod gusseted on both sides for added strength.
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The HDK / LCAs pictured are tacked together test pieces to evaluate component placement. In fact, that is precisely what I was doing when I snapped the picture to send to a customer......and my brother to give an update on progress.

Good observation.....I agree, that area needs to be beefed up.
 
@Aussiemick

I have made a lot of improvements based on members 2 cents.......however, sometimes I do give back change / refunds.

You comments (as well as most others) are appreciated and valued

When drilling thru the frame for the LCA support or the chromoly support hoops, I provide sleeves to prevent any crushing. All HDK components are 100% bolt on. IMO the drilled area is as strong ..... perhaps beefier with the brackets than stock.....unless you are drilling thru rust.
 
HemiDenny said:
@Aussiemick

I have made a lot of improvements based on members 2 cents.......however, sometimes I do give back change / refunds.

You comments (as well as most others) are appreciated and valued

When drilling thru the frame for the LCA support or the chromoly support hoops, I provide sleeves to prevent any crushing. All HDK components are 100% bolt on. IMO the drilled area is as strong ..... perhaps beefier with the brackets than stock.....unless you are drilling thru rust.
Click to expand...

Forgive my ignorance IMO?
I'm glad to say what I have is rust free. Both cars
What will it be limited to the later cars or will these items suit all cars
If I were to say I'm looking at doing my 65 barracuda then that covers both cars as they are the same except for the steering box and drag link.
I have a million questions, I won't ask as I will keep an eye out on your results pending your tests.
Please add me to your mailing list for future info.
 
IMO.....in my opinion (I think that what it means......I'm just catching on myself)

I plan on being able to have a version one way or another to fit the early A's, the later A's, and the B /E bodies.

thanks for the comments and the interest,
Denny
 
HemiDenny said:
IMO.....in my opinion (I think that what it means......I'm just catching on myself)

I plan on being able to have a version one way or another to fit the early A's, the later A's, and the B /E bodies.

thanks for the comments and the interest,
Denny
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Thanks even with your set up I think the bracing from the front over the top via a spud boltedvthrough the inner fender and shock mount then onto the Fire wall with cross brace over motor is still on my plan.
The bracing I want to put in will only supliment your set up whilst stiffening the whole front but still maintain the bolted in theme.
 
Old Man Mopar said:
I got to see the trick 2-piece interlocking rear support the other day but alas, I didn't
have my camera with me.
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Quoting myself here LOL....Here is the multi piece interlocking bracket that encapsulates
the frame rail. The sleeves prevent crushing the rail and the large loose tab is drilled
and attached separately on each install for a superior fit. This feature also enables you
to remove the LCA later without removing the entire frame bracket. Of course you could
weld all of this on but it is totally unnecessary.

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He left before I put it in. When Bro John / Old Man Mopar was there, I had the gen II Hemi in the mock-up mule for a customer build.

the new coil-over only package is in now....maybe over the weekend or Monday
 
:prayer: Thanks Denny. I think I've got it figured out, but just wanted to make sure. The next thing I'll be bumming y'all for is a price....lol. This combo should save me a few of the headaches I was going to have to solve with my Gen III Hemi/545RFE combo in my 70 Duster.
 
the (former) FABO member that I am building the first one for has a CAP (same/ same) as QA1. One of his control arms was used to verify that I could not just use the CAP /QA1 arms and needed to build an HDK version.
 
JDMopar said:
Since you've got the camera out.....a mock up pic would be nice. :D :prayer: :happy1:
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These pieces still need the final gusseting and welding but this is how it will be. Like
a normal HDK K-frame, this design incorporates both upper and lower bump stops.
The upper control arms, spindles and hubs etc. are not pictured here.

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Looks like a well engineered set-up. Making it for early and late A bodies as well as B and E Bodies?
 
Thanks John! That's exactly how I had it pictured. Well, except for the fancy schmancy blue clamps! :D Please add me to your list of seriously interested people, and PM me a price when you get that far along. I'm not in a big hurry. Thanks for taking the time to do extra pics. O:)
 
Denny has mentioned a few times in these threads that he prefers the OEM rubber style strut rod due to its attachment method, and the way it travels throughout its arc. Essentially, that there are various planes of motion through which the strut-rod travels as the suspension moves through its arc and as it accommodates rough bumps in the road.

On the other hand, the market has provided several options for modern performance style strut rods (QA1/Hotchkis/PST/Reilly, ect) which have the desired firm attachment at the lower control arm and a Heim joint up at the front attachment in the K-frame which replaces the stock rubber bushing arrangement. Proponents of these Heim style strut rods assert that it prevents changes in caster which occur during hard cornering.

Other than potential road noise and compliance/comfort, does a heim-joint strut rod instead of a stock style rubber/poly bushing pose any appreciable issues or concerns in the "HDK Tubular Coil Over for Stock Steering" application?

Note, I'm not trying to beat the strut rod topic to death, but to just clarify the subject of oem rubber/poly bushing versus modern heim style strut rods in the HDK Tubular Coilover setup.


QA-1 Strut Rod vs stock
qa1-dynamic-strut-bar-vs-stock-strut-rod.jpg
 
Ha... I'm going to steal BOTH of your designs when I make my own!! :)
 
Bakerlite said:
Ha... I'm going to steal BOTH of your designs when I make my own!! :)
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Now there is a hot rodder.:burnout:

If you need any of the components..... let me know. The specialty pieces like the HD ball joint adapter and the pivot shafts are built in quantity to be more economical
 
@ topbrent

With the new rear bracket for the LCA, I am trying to eliminate as much movement (other than up/down) as possible. Because of the strut design, there has to be some movement somewhere and I want it to be as far away from the rear bracket as possible.

I do not see any issues with the aftermarket struts when used with torsion bars. As you pointed out, they appear to have advantages when used in a performance application, even though they might produce a little more road noise and a harsher ride, but I am only guessing and have no experience with any of them
 
Moving forward.....


production run (24) pivot shafts on order

Just a few small details.....like tweeking of a couple of the small brackets.....including the sway bar tabs.

Soon...real soon.

I should have initial pricing by the first of the week.
 
I'm sure you'll do both versions of the sway bar tabs, but mine are the 73-76 version. This is going to be a great alternative for a lot of people! Thanks for doing it. :prayer:
 
HemiDenny said:
Moving forward.....


production run (24) pivot shafts on order

Just a few small details.....like tweeking of a couple of the small brackets.....including the sway bar tabs.



Soon...real soon.

I should have initial pricing by the first of the week.
Click to expand...

Any updates im going to be ready soon on the valiant im mocking the motor and trans up now
Aaron
 
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