head gasket

-
Ok so an area of question is the bolts. Is there a tolerance on the bolts that I could measure the length to find if they are out of spec?
 
Lots of early Hemis had dry intakes.
 
72ScampTramp said:
Ok so an area of question is the bolts. Is there a tolerance on the bolts that I could measure the length to find if they are out of spec?
Click to expand...

If they are bottoming out and will not torque the head properly, they are toast.
 
Just my 2 cents. I had the same problem first engine I rebuilt, was a (gasp) 327. I had a creased head gasket..ran water like a pump into the exhaust and flooded the driveway..new head gasket and no more problems.
 
72ScampTramp said:
Ok so an area of question is the bolts. Is there a tolerance on the bolts that I could measure the length to find if they are out of spec?
Click to expand...

Do you need the 'specs' on the Head Bolt Length.

First check the threads closely, and make sure there is no
progressive wear, and/or corrosion.

Thread size is 7/16"-14.

You can purchase a 'machined nut', and run them on the
threads of each Head Bolt to check to see if there is any excessive play.

That is the 'least expensive way' for a quick check.
 
69 Cuda 440 said:
Do you need the 'specs' on the Head Bolt Length.

First check the threads closely, and make sure there is no
progressive wear, and/or corrosion.

Thread size is 7/16"-14.

You can purchase a 'machined nut', and run them on the
threads of each Head Bolt to check to see if there is any excessive play.

That is the 'least expensive way' for a quick check.
Click to expand...


Yes if im following what you guys re saying its possible the bolts have been stretched beyond spec not allowing them to apply proper clamping force. The length is what i need and i can measure what I have. I have no issue buying new parts if I need new parts.....
 
The Hi Tack he posted works well, or the Copper Coat. Some people used to even use spray paint before the lead was removed. No good now. Long as you use something made for the job, you'll be fine.
 
I like the idea of trying to torque the head down without a gasket to see if the bolts are bottoming out. Could possibly get some thick ARP hardened washers to get some clearance if needed. I'd be concerned with running a bottom tap with the motor assembled. Asking for a disaster, imo.
 
my opinion on used factory head bolts. after the 3rd time toss them out. the factory did one, someone else may have did one and you did one. so toss them, they are used up. buy the head bolt kit that the fellow posted. they come with washers that keep them from bottoming out. use the moly lube and follow the instructions for torqueing them. painting steel head gaskets, the set I just got for earthmovers motor said not to paint them as they are already painted and ready to install. if you are going to use your steel head gasket over. clean them real good and then paint them with one to two coats, let dry then install. I don't recommend hi-tack on head gaskets, copper/silver coat is best.
 
Hawkins Speed Shop

'Mopar Performance' Hardened Steel Big Block Cylinder Head Bolts
#P4120472
$ 59.99

p4120472mopar35.jpg
 
It strikes me that when I did the build I checked on the coating. From what I read it use to be a must. But with advancements in gaskets the new ones had a coating. Right or wrong I dont think it would hurt to use a copper coat on the new ones just for spite. 440 source has a bolt kit for like $59 looks to be a good deal may go that route too. Appreciate all the advice and feed back everything is new to me so its not that I question the advice but I like to know the theorys behind stuff to learn.
 
Still, IMO, it would be best to have the heads pressure tested and make sure they are FLAT. Others may disagree, but the last thing you want is to put it all back together again, only to have to do yet another tear down. That would suck big nasty gonads.
 
Thanks for this. It's a good deal. Do you know if the bolts are made in USA or not?

69 Cuda 440 said:
Hawkins Speed Shop

'Mopar Performance' Hardened Steel Big Block Cylinder Head Bolts
#P4120472
$ 59.99

p4120472mopar35.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Just talked with the machinist. He recommend a few things and pressure testing was like $25. He recommended to run the piston down to the bottom and fill the #1 bolt holes and jackets full of water let it sit and check for seepage. He mentioned coating the gasket not so much as a sealant but to allow the gasket to slide flat when torqued down. Asked about bolts and he mentioned hes not had issues with mopar bolts but ARP cant hurt.
 
Mopar 383 - 440 Cylinder Head Bolt Length

7/16" - 14 TPI.............3.875"

Note; The longer Cylinder Head Bolts will show the most 'stress'.

attachment.php
 
72ScampTramp said:
I reused the stock bolts. I did clean them up and they were lubed before torquing. I did also blow out the bolt holes. Which appears that wasnt the right way to do things. Ill get the new gaskets and look into bolts.
Click to expand...


when you "lube" the bolts dont just dip them in stuff. I like to brush on the ARP torquing lube. If you get too much down in the hole it can create a hydro loc situation and throw your torque readings all off. what kind of torque wrench did you use? i always use my dads snap on torque wrench and i torque in 3 phases.
 
Make sure when you lube the bolts Josh, that you not only lube the threads, but lube both sides of the washers too.


hmmmm......all this talk about lube.
 
I've never had to add a coating to the steel head gaskets and never retorqued iron heads. The problem isn't how gooey the gasket could be.
 
moper said:
I've never had to add a coating to the steel head gaskets and never retorqued iron heads. The problem isn't how gooey the gasket could be.
Click to expand...

Moper,

Normally no. I had never had a problem with any Mopar Big Block either.

Though, once the 'Micro-Finish' on the surface deck of the Cylinder Head
was 'too' smooth.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top