Header recommendation, 1968 Dodge Dart, 340 4speed

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limelite70 said:
its been proven orig hipo 68 to 70 manifolds flow just as good as any header.
and they never leak.
cant use headers in the F.A.S.T class
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And every one of those guys would rather have a header on the car when chasing ET

The 68-70 manifolds don't work as well as a long tube header and that's been proven for many years.
 
limelite70 said:
its been proven orig hipo 68 to 70 manifolds flow just as good as any header.
and they never leak.
cant use headers in the F.A.S.T class
Click to expand...

That's all bullshit except the part about F.A.S.T class running them due to rules.
 
Hey,

We're getting off-track here. The 'OP' only wants a 'basic' Header recommendation, not a History lesson on the advantages of a free-flowing exhaust system..
 
limelite70 said:
its been proven orig hipo 68 to 70 manifolds flow just as good as any header.
and they never leak.
cant use headers in the F.A.S.T class
Click to expand...

Who proved it? Where are the dyno numbers?
 
69 Cuda 440 said:
Hey,

We're getting off-track here. The 'OP' only wants a 'basic' Header recommendation, not a History lesson on the advantages of a free-flowing exhaust system..
Click to expand...

Exactly.
 
Spend the coin and buy the best TTI'S..stay away from the cheap ones they're junk thats why they're "cheap"..
 
Doug's or TTI's. Only one's worthwhile for an A-body. Doug's give you about an extra 3/8" to 1/2" of ground clearance vs the TTI's if it matters. You know, in case you're "ghetto low ridin". Or in case you've actually set your A-body up to go around corners faster than the average dump truck. Because that requires lowering the CG and improving the suspension geometry, which means lowering the ride height. Darned physics.

You'll have to modify the Z-bar for both Doug's and TTI's. It's not hard, but you need to remove the lever arm that goes to the clutch fork adjusting rod, turn it around so the stud for the clutch fork adjusting rod is on the opposite side, and re-weld it to the end of the Z-bar. I did it for the 340/4 speed in my Duster, I run Doug's on mine. Got them from AutoZone with the 20% discount.

Here's a diagram of how to modify the Z-bar.
 

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i did read dyno tests on a 300 hp 360 done by Mopar Muscle.Headers averaged about 12 more hp than the hi flo manifolds.Oddly enough the Hedman Shorties outperformed the Hooker Super comp and the TTI's.
Dyno Tests were with open headers ...might not be much gain through another
12 feet of exhaust pipe and mufflers.
 
Hooker Headers 'Competition Series' ~ #5901-HKR

* Primary Tubing ..... 1 5/8"
* Length ................. 34"
* Collector ............... 8" x 3"
* Collector Opening ... 3"
* Flange Header ....... 5/16" {.312"}
* Tubing ................. 16 Gauge {.065"}
* Design Direction .... Down Swept
* Coating ................ Black Heat-Paint
* Weight ................. 34 lbs.

* Long Transition-Collector for Improved Power
* Long-Tubed for Street Performance
* Will fit with > Power Steering and Power Brakes

Cost .................. $192.95

Not a 'bad deal'. Though the 'Hooker' units tend to hang low.

We've run quite a few of these Headers. They perform well, but
'Oh the low-hanging collectors'.
 
OK, Okay........the headers are going to be either Doug's or TTI's. I did call Auto Zone and the price for uncoated was 439.00 or something like that. I think the Doug's are going to be the ones I get. This Dart (GTS clone) is starting life with a carb but I'm thinking I may use a Hilborne fuel injection setup I have for the 340, so if that happens I will have to have bungs welded in for sensors. Thanks for all the help.

Mark
 
69 Cuda 440 said:
~ A-Body Headers ~

Doug's ~ D-453
* 4-Tube ~ Long Tube {Full-Length}
* Silver Ceramic Coated
* Pre-Polished
* 1 5/8" Primary Tubes
* 16 Gauge Material {.065" Thickness for the Primary Tubing}
* Thick Mounting Flanges {3/8" to 5/8"}
* 3" Collector
* 3-Bolt Flange
* Precision formed transition collector {Reduces back-pressure}
* Excellent Fabrication
* Good ground clearance
* Long life and durability
* 20 lbs. {Lightweight}
* $630 to $675

~ A bit 'pricey', but worth every damn cent. ~

~ Excellent quality costs money. ~

------- Or --------

Doug's ~ D-453-R
* Same as above, except 'Raw' steel headers.
* $439.95 at 'Auto-Zone'
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"Hemi Mark"

Sam Kinison >
"Good answer, good answer. I like the way you think. I'm going to be watching you."
 
HemiMark said:
OK, Okay........the headers are going to be either Doug's or TTI's. I did call Auto Zone and the price for uncoated was 439.00 or something like that. I think the Doug's are going to be the ones I get. This Dart (GTS clone) is starting life with a carb but I'm thinking I may use a Hilborne fuel injection setup I have for the 340, so if that happens I will have to have bungs welded in for sensors. Thanks for all the help.

Mark
Click to expand...

You can order the TTI's with the oxy sensor bungs already installed. If you don't use the sensors initially, just plug them with the plugs which are readily available.
 
69_340_GTS said:
You can order the TTI's with the oxy sensor bungs already installed. If you don't use the sensors initially, just plug them with the plugs which are readily available.
Click to expand...

I did not know this................ Maybe changing my mind? LOL
 
If you have manual steering (didn't read all the posts) I would not buy any other than Hooker 5204. A stock 318 LOVES 1.75 headers. Skip the 1.625 and stepped header crap unless you are going to do many pulls on the dyno and test your brains out for little (if any) gain.

Now, if you were running 10.0:1 or more compression, had a 3.7 gear (or lower) I would tell you to look for some Hooker 5303,

They are 1.875 diameter but they are no longer made. I buy every set I can find (and I only have one set now and use them.

If you look very carefully at a recent comic book test where they dyno a small block (can't remember the CID but seems like it was a "junkyard" 3600 and they said they tested with hooker 1.75 headers. They evidently can't read simple measuring tools as I have that exact same set and they are 1.875. The thing made bitching low end torque.

Do your research before you buy.
 
69 Cuda 440 said:
Dr. Mad

Those are some mighty big tubes {1 3/4"} for a Stock 318. Just where are
you going in such a hurry.
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Because since 1980 I have been throwing away 1.625 headers on everything and going bigger. Have done so many dyno tests to prove the dumb small tube header thing it's now senseless.

Like I said...there is a current (last 90 days) magazine article with 1.875 heads that made big power. There is a TV show that dyno'd a 302 FORD that pick up 15-20 HP and about the same on TQ going from 1.625 to 1.75 headers. On a 302 FORD.
 
madscientist said:
Because since 1980 I have been throwing away 1.625 headers on everything and going bigger. Have done so many dyno tests to prove the dumb small tube header thing it's now senseless.
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Funny, I just had a discussion about headers with the guy that does my heads because I was thinking my 408 might benefit from some larger tube headers. He builds 800+ HP NA small blocks (mostly Ford and Chevy) and he says that big tubes are a mismatch to smaller cubic inch engines. You need to keep velocity up in the system or you experience turbulence. He has spent a lot of dyno time over the last 30 yrs. and consistently finds that only high HP/large cube engines benefit from bigger headers. I also saw a recent dyno test on a 302 Ford on a TV show (maybe the one your referring too) and it showed that big tube headers did increase power above the torque peak by about 5 hp (not 15-20) but below torque peak it lost just as much, nevertheless they gave the impression that the extra 5 HP was a huge gain which it wasn't IMO. For a street or even a street/strip car torque is what gets it moving so if you give up torque for a few hp up top you gain nothing. JMHO
 
fishy68 said:
Funny, I just had a discussion about headers with the guy that does my heads because I was thinking my 408 might benefit from some larger tube headers. He builds 800+ HP NA small blocks (mostly Ford and Chevy) and he says that big tubes are a mismatch to smaller cubic inch engines. You need to keep velocity up in the system or you experience turbulence. He has spent a lot of dyno time over the last 30 yrs. and consistently finds that only high HP/large cube engines benefit from bigger headers. I also saw a recent dyno test on a 302 Ford on a TV show (maybe the one your referring too) and it showed that big tube headers did increase power above the torque peak by about 5 hp (not 15-20) but below torque peak it lost just as much, nevertheless they gave the impression that the extra 5 HP was a huge gain which it wasn't IMO. For a street or even a street/strip car torque is what gets it moving so if you give up torque for a few hp up top you gain nothing. JMHO
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Makes Proper Sense ^^^

With big tube primaries, the Low-End Torque will go out the 'proverbial' window.

Small tubes 'create' good low-end Torque and early mid-range Power.
 
I run the factory 68-70 340 mani's with stock factory exhaust and my 318/390 stroker runs very well.
I also was thinking of spending large $ on headers and 2 1/2" exhaust but I don't really think I would gain a whole lot,besides I love the stock look under the hood!
 
For a mild small block TTIs are good, never ran Dougs so I can't say. There are better options for guys making some steam, Hedman Hustlers.
 
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