headers for a 318

-
Joined
Dec 6, 2015
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Location
lake lillian.
Ready to put a dual exhaust on my 1975 dodge dart, engine is stock and has stock manifolds on it now. The big question is do i put headers on before i spend the money on the exhaust or just stick with the stock manifolds? I'm not looking for performance because i'm not building a racer, just a Sunday cruiser. If headers are what you would use, any ideas on a bolt on easy install set? ( no cutting, changing other things to make fit ) Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks dan
 
I'd recommend the Doug's D453 headers (or TTI's..... $$$)
Put the headers on first and tow it to the exhaust shop.

You "could" drive it open header to the shop if it's not too far.....gonna be a loud ride!

:burnout:
 
For the street or street/strip, it's Doug's or TTI's.

If you keep and eye on Autozone's web site you can get a 20% off Doug's.

For track only Hooker, Hedman, etc.

Given your expectations and use, I'd stick with manifolds and put a good dual exhaust system on it.
 
because you seem to be looking to go "easy" - just add dual exhaust off the OEM manifolds - you'll save $$ and headaches - all headers have some degree of difficulty to install - tight fit, disconnecting steering linkage, pulling a torsion bar...
 
because you seem to be looking to go "easy" - just add dual exhaust off the OEM manifolds - you'll save $$ and headaches - all headers have some degree of difficulty to install - tight fit, disconnecting steering linkage, pulling a torsion bar...
X2... unless your just killing to have a deeper sound, headers are for gains in performance which you seem to have no interest.
 
People usually put headers on to maximize future upgrades (more power equals more exhaust) but headers and duals will add a bit of a mileage and performance bump which is always nice even just in casual driving and won't make your car into a racer. But headers don't always give trouble free service.
 
I have always been a header guy.It's the gear head in me.But on the last 2 projects that I have,,I stuck with the stock exhaust manifolds.The cars are drivers, Not show or go fast but fun drivers. If you have the money TTI makes great complete exhaust systems in the $600 range that you can order and bolt on yourself (photo of the TTI system on a 79 Chrysler 300.The swoopie bend on the second photo is to allow easy access of the oil filter that to me was a great idea) If on a tight budget check with a local exhaust shop.Some will even tell you to buy the mufflers you want and they will do the rest of the system.Look to spend in the $400 range.Jegs and Summit have Bolt on systems in the $200-$300 range for the A body Mopars but I am not sure if they are for manifolds, or for headers only.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2117.jpg
    55.3 KB · Views: 234
  • IMG_2118.jpg
    51 KB · Views: 221
The other option is the 340/360 manifold combination. You'll get the same exhaust flow that came on the 340 6Pack engines. These manifolds cost a lot less than headers, they do not leak or scrape over speed bumps and they are very easy to install (very much like the stock 318 manifolds) but they flow much, much better.
In the first pic you can see the difference in the exit hole size between a regular 318 exhaust manifold and a 340/360 magnum manifold.

You can spend a bundle on headers but you'll only see significant gains in power at higher RPMs (4500 and up). However if you're the type of person that likes headers then that's the way to go!!!:burnout:

treblig
 

Attachments

  • DSC04203.jpg
    36 KB · Views: 325
  • DSC03992.jpg
    52.5 KB · Views: 200
  • DSC03989.jpg
    49.6 KB · Views: 202
  • DSC03389.jpg
    34.2 KB · Views: 200
People usually put headers on to maximize future upgrades (more power equals more exhaust) but headers and duals will add a bit of a mileage and performance bump which is always nice even just in casual driving and won't make your car into a racer. But headers don't always give trouble free service.

Well said. And sooner or later, a 4bbl set-up will come available at a killer price, that you won't be able to refuse; and you are ready for it.
But even with the 2bbl and a x-over, fuel mileage gains are the norm, as the engine picks up a few more footpounds of torque, largely due to the long-tube headers.
When I had to remove my crossover to fit the GearVender, I really, really, noticed the loss of torque, down low, right in the street driving zone of idle to mid-2000.The TTIs had a simple H-crossover, but it mustabin working really well. I spent the rest of the summer, trying to get the torque back.I was only partially able to do so. The best solution for me,was more rear gear. You probably don't want to go there.

And then there's the Trebleg option.
If you go with his manifolds,(For you, an excellent option),and for your stated usage,a big single exhaust could be considered.Save some money.
So that could be;Trebleg logs, a big single exhaust, and a free-flowing muffler. Just like the 273s of olden days.
 
As nice as TTI and Doug's headers are... I'd just keep it simple and cheap. Here's what I've got: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-5901hkr/overview/make/dodge They're relatively cheap, fit well enough (didn't have to alter them in any way, I have power steering, and also a manual transmission), there's still room for a nice big Wix oil filter as well and you don't need an oil filter adapter. Clears my mini starter no problem and changing the oil filter is still pretty easy. Plus, if you hit a pothole, who cares if they get a little bashed up? Cheap is good, especially if you're not trying to squeeze every last HP out of your combo.

I've used these headers on a 318 and also a 340 in my '73 Dart Sport. The worst thing about them is removing the center link for installation but that's nothing that can't be taken care of with a big hammer and a bigger hammer. You could change out the tie rod ends and idler arm and stuff while you've got the center link off (if your car needs it..). :glasses7: Then get dual exhaust and call it a day.
 
what the hell is that thing???

attachment.php
 
I hear you saying you want that sound of a hot rod but don't want the performance of one? If you truly want that hot rod sound, you truly have to have headers. My recommendation is always the cheap summit headers because as stated if anything happens to them you're not out much. The dougs and TTi'S aren't any easier to install seed 318willrun about that. It's a little work and you'll be loosening the motor mounts and doing all kinds of crazy stuff to get that driver side on. you may even have a few choice curse words before their in but you will enjoy the sound and the performance that you say you don't want but really? It doesn't have to be a drag car but a cruiser usually ends up wanting to be at least a bruiser of egos. I had a 72 duster quite a number of years ago and I put aluminum intake a small 4 barrel a little bit of an upgraded cam and some headers and was extremely happy with the way it sounded and performed for the street it was definitely no drag car. My two cents.
 
what the hell is that thing???

attachment.php

It's a 120 degree mandrel bend 2 1/2" pipe welded to a the 340 flat flange down pipe stub. If you use my 340 driver manifolds on a 67 and up A body this 120 degree adapter help you get past the torsion bar. Otherwise you'll pay the muffler shop to crush regular pipe to try and get enough clearance above the torsion bar.
Pics show the 120 degree piece helps clear the torsion bar. There's no restriction, there's a sharp turn but it's straight through (as you can see) with no crushed pipe.

Treblig
 

Attachments

  • DSC03458.jpg
    38.1 KB · Views: 146
  • DSC03465.jpg
    34.7 KB · Views: 176
  • DSC04198.jpg
    31.1 KB · Views: 174
  • DSC04199.jpg
    40.6 KB · Views: 148
  • DSC04202.jpg
    35.9 KB · Views: 156
-
Back
Top