Headers install, easy endevor or horrible

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Torkmnstr

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Well as it says I am debating throwing some headers on. I picked up some hooker comp headers for my 68 with a 273. They were a steal but looking at the install I am debating on just running true duals from the manifolds. What to you all think, worth the time and skinned knuckles? The motor is an older build stock setup, I did just do a ld4b manifold and 600 holley, so I want her to breath a little easier. Thanks all. :burnout:
 
Oh, it's so much fun you just have to. :)

Some good manifolds would probably be just fine without the headache, and apparently the downtube sections off the manifolds is the hardest part to come up with or build.
 
does that center section for the steering linkage pass through the passenger side primaries?
 
does that center section for the steering linkage pass through the passenger side primaries?

Worse, the drivers side but apparently it depends on what brand you get.
I have Hedman 1 5/8 tubes with 3 inch collectors and they are pretty low to the ground under that linkage.
Some (like Dougs or TTI's) do not go under the linkage but they are pretty pricey comparatively.

My car is a bit higher than some probably, and I have 15 inch wheels as well as the 1.03 dia torsion bars so that doesn't matter that much to me for the cost difference.
 
LOL , nope , very smooth , drivers side first , then the passenger side ....

Ok then, I'll take your word for it. :D
We had a few other things to do at the same time, so I could see it.
 
I have done several sets of the cheap headers, I didn't think it was bad at all. Get your steering apart, jack up the front of the car, jack up the motor. Last set I did in my aspen with 340, driver side went in through the top, passenger side up from the bottom.
 
^ Unbolt the steering box and pull the column, way less headache than lifting the motor while your in the air. GO slow, keep the headers in the plastic so they don't get scratched.
 
I picked up some hooker competition. I picked them up on Craigslist, not sure on the primary size maybe 1 5/8 with a 3" collector.
 
I have put that style headers on several. As long as you follow the instructions, they are not bad.
 
Seeing how I'm not an instructions kind of guy I took your word rusty and checked them out. The only that stands out to me is them calling to cut up the kickdown linkage and reweld and install 180 flipped? Anyone done that before?
 
Manifolds Manifolds Manifolds! Unless you are going with TTI shorty headers. Nothing else is easy to install if you have power steering or God help you a Z bar. Others will argue. I've lnstalled three sets (including Dougs ) and it's never easy...
 
Not a problem just get the car high enough might need to jack the motor up some have installed 2 sets of TTI'S on 2 different dusters 45 minutes tops..
 
Seeing how I'm not an instructions kind of guy I took your word rusty and checked them out. The only that stands out to me is them calling to cut up the kickdown linkage and reweld and install 180 flipped? Anyone done that before?

I didn't have to. had plenty of clearance. you will need to remove the oil filter and add (after the header is on) a short oil filter (people hate fram filters but I use a PH43) if you don't have a 90 degree adapter. I also use 45 degree spark plug boots on the #5 and #7 plugs. never burned a wire. it was easier for me to just loosen the motor mounts and move the engine around as I needed to get the drivers side on first, then the passenger side went right in. a good tip is to make sure and leave the front and rear exhaust studs in to prevent water leakage and the ability to hang the headers.
 
I wish I had gone small block.. I would easily be able to do headers in a small block car.. a big block is proving not fun in the header department.. especially 1 7/8"ID under chassis headers haha
 
Did you leave the studs in for good and they clamp hard enough to seal up?

I didn't have to. had plenty of clearance. you will need to remove the oil filter and add (after the header is on) a short oil filter (people hate fram filters but I use a PH43) if you don't have a 90 degree adapter. I also use 45 degree spark plug boots on the #5 and #7 plugs. never burned a wire. it was easier for me to just loosen the motor mounts and move the engine around as I needed to get the drivers side on first, then the passenger side went right in. a good tip is to make sure and leave the front and rear exhaust studs in to prevent water leakage and the ability to hang the headers.
 
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