Headers

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hippy 60

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I bought a set of Dougs Headers and was wanting to put them on they are the ceramic coated and i would be easier to do it while i have everything off But in the instructions it says to use manifold to break it in then install them,Said it might discolor them and i was wanting to see if anybody done that or just put them on,It's on a 63 Valiant with a v\8.Thanks for any input....
 
Yea that what it is.....

If you have to break in a cam it could be an issue because the if the timing and carb setting are incorrect it could the headers hot enough to discolor them.

If it was my car I would just put the headers on because they are a pain in the ***. If they discolor, for me, its no big deal. IMHO
 
Doug's headers are not cheap and I imagine the coating and makes them even more expensive. But also I thought they fit so great that they weren't that difficult in comparison to put them in. If I paid that kind of money for some headers that were ceramic-coated personally I wouldn't discolor them..
 
Put a extra large fan in front of the car to push cool air across the headers during break-in, see this done all the time, dyno's, engine run stands, break-in stands. Anyone else have experience using the jumbo fans?
 
Put a extra large fan in front of the car to push cool air across the headers during break-in, see this done all the time, dyno's, engine run stands, break-in stands. Anyone else have experience using the jumbo fans?

thats not gonna help the coating if the timing and or mixture is off. the fan is to get air across the radiator.
 
thats not gonna help the coating if the timing and or mixture is off. the fan is to get air across the radiator.
When he said "jumbo", I started thinking of one of those fans that would have your whole breaking in under a hurricane wind LOL...
 
Screenshot_20190512-092053.png

Even something like this is no guarantee LOL the only guarantee if they are going to get color tarnished would be not to run them.
 
Doug's headers are not cheap and I imagine the coating and makes them even more expensive. But also I thought they fit so great that they weren't that difficult in comparison to put them in. If I paid that kind of money for some headers that were ceramic-coated personally I wouldn't discolor them..
Yea i know i give almost a 1,000.00 for them don't won't to ruin them
 
break in a motor or cam means the jetting will not be spot on and may cause a EGT issue. If your just getting headers for a running car, I would be wary about it , remember if you put headers on a manifold tune, you will be a little lean. Maybe jet up 2 numbers and start tuning with the headers in place from there. Rather run rich and cooler than lean and hotter with those new headers until you get them figured out. Wideband would be a great thing to beg/borrow.
 
Every engine that I have broken in runs hot whether I use a fan or not. Engines under a no load break in will run lean because the carburetor does not get the vacuum signal to enable the power valve enrichment.
I would break in the engine on the manifolds and once that is done (AND cooled down) I'd consider the header installation.
 
Yea i know i give almost a 1,000.00 for them don't won't to ruin them
I think I paid around a hundred and thirty something years ago for my headers sent to my door from Summit..
$1, 000 GET THOSE THINGS OUT OF THERE!!!
 
Headers built to fit an Early A chassis....
Take a car with more obstacles than the IRS tax code, jam an engine in there with the starter, steering box, shift linkage and ATF cooler lines ON THE SAME SIDE.....
Add to that a car that is not that great in numbers....and you can see why the header companies are not lining up to make $150 pipes for them.
 
I'm no professional, so your results may vary.
Don't forget timing; at 2000/2200 the engine will want plenty of timing. I'd wager that retarded timing, allowing the fuel to continue burning in the headers, is the number one cause of header bluing. The engine is gonna want in the range of 40* to 50*, or more degrees timing, and most engines will never get this much,probably because newbie's just don't know this, and many/most wouldn't know how to get it.
So when I break in an engine, as soon as it lights off and gets up to rpm, I just tug on the D until the rpm peaks. Then go about the other engine-saving business. This ensures that when the exhaust leaves the cylinder, it is about as cool as it will ever be.... at that rpm. I set the timing later.
With proper timing, at no load 2000/2200; the PV is locked up tight, the carb should be running only or mostly on the transfers, and the engine shouldn't care one whit about the size of the MJs. ............. But the engine will want a ton of timing.
I haven't broke in that many engines; but using the pull-it-to-max-the-rpm timing method, I've never had a color change, even with nickle-plateds.
I'm no professional, so your results may vary.

For skeptics out there, especially you no-Vcan guys,just go out and set your engine to 2000/2200, measure your pipes with an IR gun; then pull in the timing as above, reset the rpm, and retest the temps. Then put a timing light on her and see what she's getting. Finally stick your fingers over the boosters and see what happens to the rpm.
 
I think I paid around a hundred and thirty something years ago for my headers sent to my door from Summit..
$1, 000 GET THOSE THINGS OUT OF THERE!!!


thats what i was just thinking.i know they fit a lot better now,but my lord.when i smoked in the mid 70s,they were 50 cents a pack too.inflation
 
Cutting holes for fenderwell headers, for me, is not a big deal; There are plenty of guys in the neighborhood, who can make those holes go away. Some can make them invisible under the paint.
Also, I would rather have the horsepower and torque those long tubes make, even on a smaller engine, than to suffer a 360 with whatever logs you can make fit . And this goes double and more, as you increase the cam size..... cuz
logs kill the overlap period, especially mini rear dumps, sized for 180hp engines. And it is the overlap period on a performance cam that is a serious power-adder.
That means that;
When you floor it, it ain't gonna matter much what your 360 dynoe'd at, the logs were made for 180 hp engine. On a 360 this will be about 295ft lbs@3200, which could be made with a 2bbl carb and a teener-cam.
Here's the math;
180hp x5250/3200rpm =295 ftlbs. It could be even less on a stout 360, say;
180hp x5250/2800rpm =338ftlbs.
And, as to the carb;
360cid x3200rpm/3450 x .75VE=250 cfm carb;
..... So,when you upcam, expecting 15/20 hp, and you only get 5, your :) turns to :(. ... WTH?.
So IMO;
there is no point to run any performance cam at all, nor a 4bbl;
Cuz the logs will be the choke.
Instead, I suggest tons of rear gear, and a very low-stall TC...... Jus IMO.
 
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