Heater isn't heating very well

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M

MudFlap

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Wichita/Haysville, KS
So I took the radiator outta the ole girl and took it to a radiator shop. When I got it back, I treated her to some brand new antifreeze, after I flushed the cooling system and heater core. Upon putting the radiator and antifreeze back in, the heater was nice and hot. But that was the only time. Now, it's only barely warm out the ducts. I put a 180 degree thermostat in it. I can feel the heater hoses are hot, so I know it's circulating and not plugged up. I haven't found a valve to shut off flow or anything. The Off-Heat-Defrost lever is broken, but I've reached up behind the dash and actuated both cables to the defrost position. Also, The temp lever is there and works, it actuates the cable, and I can hear the door working in the box. The blower motor works fine. Any ideas?
 
Plugged up heater core? Maybe during the reverse flush something that got loose and didnt come out has now blocked it when flowing in normal direction?

Grant
 
I thought that too, but both heater hoses are hot, telling me it's circulating. I can feel pressure and flow in both hoses. I'm beginning to suspect my thermostat. I had thought my temp gauge wasn't working, but today it came up, and I turned on the heater. it was nice and warm. Perhaps she's just not getting hot enough. I put a 180 in it tho, and with the radiator cap off, I can clearly see when the state opens and the coolant flows in the top of the radiator tank.
 
Burp it. I had the same issue in a 96 breeze, put 2 stats in it, still cold or mild at best. I took the cap off, blew compressed air through the heater core (no blockage or crap came out) , heater on full and put the ol hose in it and filled it until it overflowed, kept the car running and watched the water suck down to nothing again, filled it 2 more times like this and it finally stabalized. Now the heater is working great. I suspect the core had an air pocket in it or something. If the heater control valve is bad, you should not be able to pass fluid though the heater hose manually even when it seems open, vacuum might be needed to actuate. Semper Fi 1/9
 
Disconnect both heater hoses from the block. Disconnect ONE hose from the firewall. Get an old garden hose with the end cut off and with a hose clamp, attach the garden hose to the heater hose connection at the firewall. Turn on the water. If you have any blockage in the heater core the 60-70LBS pressure on the water line will blow it out!
 
Check you radiator level and see if it has dropped. If there was an air pocket it may have moved and that isn't allowing the water to easily flow thru that heater core.
 
Well, I drove the ole girl to OKC, and prior to that, a few trips to work. bout 400 miles total, and the antifreeze level never changed. So, I replaced the new Made in Israel thermostat with a quality unit made in America and problem solved.
 
I have had similar problem before i found that once i flushed real good i than took some CLR Calcium lime rust remover filled it with 2 hoses suspended high let it sit for 15 minutes than flushed it real good problem solved.**** works real good and does not hurt the heater core.
 
Does your car have an a/c heater box? I had this same problem & just noticed that the trap door to the heater core was closed & not allowing air to go into it. The vaccume pulls the door shut. I opened the PS lower dash vent to notice it & there is another trap door with a vaccume pod underneith on the front as well & if you push or pull it open you will see the 1 in the vent open & close.
 
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