HEI... here we go...

Slant 6 Engines

  1. theFightingFew

    theFightingFew Always Learning/1975 Valiant Custom/1974 Valiant FABO Gold Member

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    Well I finally squirrelled together the last of the components to do me up the HEI conversion... Just gotta run and get some electrical connectors and away we go.
    IMG_20200629_182743.jpg
     
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    • pishta

      pishta I know I'm right....

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      Good luck. Post up the details. One of the hei modules has a 7-10 degree starter assist retard on one of the extra wires.
       
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      • 70aarcuda

        70aarcuda Master Hoader of SBM FABO Gold Member

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        Can you post what parts you are using as I want to upgrade the ignition on my daughter 63 valiant wagon....
         
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        • RustyRatRod

          RustyRatRod Lemmie see your b00bs. FABO Gold Member

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          Do post pictures please. First I've heard of this one. I love the 63s.
           
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          • theFightingFew

            theFightingFew Always Learning/1975 Valiant Custom/1974 Valiant FABO Gold Member

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            Ok well I was hoping to have it in the car tonight and be zip'n down some twisty country backroads... my wife always says I get a bit over ambitious... but here is the progress...
            To be clear I am pretty much following the recipe posted by @slantsixdan over here - HEI Electronic Ignition Retrofit How-To

            PARTS I AM USING: (because @70aarcuda requested )
            Heat Sink - AMZN LINK
            IMG_20200629_195238.jpg

            Bracket - AMZN LINK
            IMG_20200629_195452.jpg

            Coil - AMZN LINK
            IMG_20200629_195840.jpg

            Control Module - AMZN LINK
            IMG_20200629_195316.jpg

            Pigtail - AMZN LINK
            IMG_20200629_195522.jpg

            Heat Sink Goo - AMZN LINK
            IMG_20200629_195710.jpg

            Lightning Cable - AMZN LINK
            IMG_20200629_195637.jpg

            Electrical disconnects, wires, and some #8-32 x 1in machine bolts/nuts from the hardware store.
             
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            • 70aarcuda

              70aarcuda Master Hoader of SBM FABO Gold Member

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              Is the distributor a stock mopar /6 unit?
               
            • RustyRatRod

              RustyRatRod Lemmie see your b00bs. FABO Gold Member

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              What plug wires are you using?
               
            • theFightingFew

              theFightingFew Always Learning/1975 Valiant Custom/1974 Valiant FABO Gold Member

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              If i was more knowledgable I probably would have sourced different parts (maybe) but I was easily able to modify what I had with a Dremel cut-off wheel and some drilling.

              The heat sink lined up with the bracket
              IMG_20200629_200245.jpg

              The control module was out of position due to the first fin on the heat sink - see how the holes don't line up
              IMG_20200629_200333.jpg

              I removed the first fin with a Dremel cut-off wheel
              IMG_20200629_201059.jpg

              All lined up
              IMG_20200629_201139.jpg

              But the control module had some feet... so back to the Dremel and off they came
              IMG_20200629_201419.jpg IMG_20200629_201617.jpg

              The coil only lined up with one bolt hole so I inserted the one bolt and snugged it down then marked a new hole through the back and drilled
              IMG_20200629_202231.jpg IMG_20200629_202309.jpg
              IMG_20200629_202557.jpg IMG_20200629_202722.jpg

              Yay...
               
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              • theFightingFew

                theFightingFew Always Learning/1975 Valiant Custom/1974 Valiant FABO Gold Member

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                Threw some heat sink goop on the sink placed the control unit on and bolted down...
                IMG_20200629_212004.jpg
                IMG_20200629_212344.jpg

                Added connectors to the pigtail and made up some wire for the distributor...
                IMG_20200629_223437.jpg

                and this is as far as I got for tonight... booooooo... tomorrow's another day...
                 
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                • theFightingFew

                  theFightingFew Always Learning/1975 Valiant Custom/1974 Valiant FABO Gold Member

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                  Hey Rusty, I have a set of those extra fancy LiveWires I harvested from my '74 Valiant that the previous owner put on... and took these guys off the '75 that I'm doing this conversion on that I've been running since I acquired the car... I'm putting these in my original parts storage box... I like the way they look!
                  IMG_20200629_232626.jpg
                   
                • theFightingFew

                  theFightingFew Always Learning/1975 Valiant Custom/1974 Valiant FABO Gold Member

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                  Yes - original unit that came with the engine/car (though I do not know if it is the original one "from" the car - I don't know how to read codes yet) - this is from when i took it out last year after acquiring the car to clean it up a bit, check the reluctor gap and drop some oil on the felt... it still seems to be functioning well
                  20190518_195219_HDR.jpg
                   
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                  • theFightingFew

                    theFightingFew Always Learning/1975 Valiant Custom/1974 Valiant FABO Gold Member

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                    UPDATE:
                    So I got a bit more done last night. I need to do clean up but I wanted to test it to make sure I had an understanding of what I was doing... I'm sure there may be some placebo effect going on but it feels stronger and much smoother...

                    I removed the Mopar 5 wire ECU and sealed up the connection - I'm really not sure what to do with it... I wouldn't mind going through the harness and cleaning up un-needed wires but I also feel I should leave it as a fall-back to go back to original set up if needed... any constructive thoughts are appreciated.
                    IMG_20200701_105009.jpg

                    I created 10 gauge jumpers for the ballast resistor - I got this idea from a B-Bodies only post here. I thought it was a good way, again, as a fall-back.
                    IMG_20200701_104947.jpg

                    I removed my Accel Super Stock coil, bracket, and I assume the cylinder-ma-bobber is some sort of noise canceller (I'm interested in knowing more if incorrect)?
                    IMG_20200701_121635.jpg

                    I sealed up the coil wires and the male/female torpedo connector - Again, I'm not sure what to do with them... would love to clean up - constructive thoughts welcomed!
                    IMG_20200701_121133.jpg

                    So here is the install of the coil and control module.
                    1. I ran a ground from the control module to the alternator.
                    2. I am currently picking power up from the 12v ignition switched BLUE WIRE coming off the alternator. This previously went to the electric thermostat choke pull-off on the original 1bbl Holley 1945 set up which has been replaced with a Holley 350 cfm set up with electric choke also powered by the blue lead.
                    3. I currently don't have a relay set up for the coil as I was just testing - THIS IS WHERE I COULD USE SOME ADVICE as I'm getting a bit lost at that point in the recipe linked above.
                      • If I run a 10ga. lead from battery + to a relay controlled by the BLUE LEAD would that be CORRECT? Do I even need a relay if i'm using the blue lead? (The blue lead is also feeding an aftermarket volt gauge.)
                    4. I still need a fuse. I imagine this would go on the 10ga from the battery +? (or between the blue lead/coil if no relay as above?)
                    IMG_20200701_105044.jpg

                    I'm not 100% content with the location of the install but am currently limited by the length of the coil wire. I have read various opinions about coil wire length... shorted is better etc... but i'd love to move this whole thing back towards/to the firewall - Thoughts? All in all it's definitely not the sexiest package, but like everything else when working on our cars I'm proud to be going through the process of building it out myself.

                    Thanks FABO
                     
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                    • Badvert65

                      Badvert65 Long Time Mopar Nut

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                      You can make it "cool" looking if you use your imagination. I built this and mounted it to the right front side of the engine.
                      IMG_0637w.JPG IMG_1338w.JPG
                       
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                      • trapster

                        trapster Well-Known Member

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                        Don't forget to open up your spark plug gaps. :)
                         
                      • theFightingFew

                        theFightingFew Always Learning/1975 Valiant Custom/1974 Valiant FABO Gold Member

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                        Yes! I did that... Forgot to put that in the notes. Gapped at 45. Thanks.
                         
                      • theFightingFew

                        theFightingFew Always Learning/1975 Valiant Custom/1974 Valiant FABO Gold Member

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                        Cool man... Now that I got it all work'n you've inspired me to get a bit crafty with it!
                         
                      • pishta

                        pishta I know I'm right....

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                        I should send you a gold Pentastar to stick on that big glaring "GM"! Nice work.

                        Here is the GM 5 pin HEI hack: "5 pin HEI module out of an '80 Oldsmobile Toronado w/ 307 or 350 engine, works just like a "regular" 4 pin HEI module, but ground the 5th pin and it will retard crank timing 5 degrees" Another states 5 pin HEI "Used on early non-efi HEI vehicles for detonation control such as 1980 Pontiac TransAm Turbo (301 olds), retards BY 10 deg when 5th pin is grounded" eg. Standard Motor Products #LX-330 (?)
                         
                      • trapster

                        trapster Well-Known Member

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                        would the Hei module have worked better if you flipped it over ? So the connectors are pointing toward the coil.
                         
                      • trapster

                        trapster Well-Known Member

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                      • theFightingFew

                        theFightingFew Always Learning/1975 Valiant Custom/1974 Valiant FABO Gold Member

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                        Yes - maybe not that one specifically but... In any case I read/saw somewhere that some control modules emit different frequencies/wavelength (or some other kind of magic) so I was reluctant getting the whole package just to have to swap out the control module anyway. Since this way my first HEI install I opted to follow the recipe @slantsixdan posted over on slantsix.org with the parts he mentioned as I felt it was a safe and thoroughly researched path forward.

                        Plus, making the thing out of all the parts was fun, and though I had to do some minor modifications I enjoyed the problem-solving/building process... it gave me something to do instead of sit'n in front of the TV at night :)
                         
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                        • theFightingFew

                          theFightingFew Always Learning/1975 Valiant Custom/1974 Valiant FABO Gold Member

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                          "worked better" or "fit" better? Worked - no as long as wiring was correct it would be the same. Fit - no it still would have hit the fin and if i remember correctly was more misaligned due to the inside corners of the module being at a further distance from the mounting holes.
                           
                        • slantsixdan

                          slantsixdan =..=

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                          Can't do that—there's one particular "bottom" surface that must be in heat-greased contact with the heat sink.
                           
                        • nitro_rat

                          nitro_rat FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                          Standard LX330 is the '80 Toronado application, LX331 is for the '80 turbo Trans Am with Canadian emissions (US applications used a 7 pin module). There are no details listed about the difference in retard degrees if any.
                           
                        • pishta

                          pishta I know I'm right....

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                          ^^ the LX-330 was referencing the 307/350 Olds engine, my cut and paste put the T/A reference in between, causing 'confusion and delay' (poor form pishta!) :BangHead:

                          Update>> @nitro_rat they look to both retard 10 degrees, one lists 5 crank timing , other source listed 10 timing (probably @ cam)

                          209.jpg
                           
                          Last edited: Jul 3, 2020
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                          • theFightingFew

                            theFightingFew Always Learning/1975 Valiant Custom/1974 Valiant FABO Gold Member

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                            Ha! I know... Everytime I look at it I get a twinge of pain... Like when you have a small metal filing stuck in your finger you just can't seem to it dig out but you know it's there.

                            I'm definitely going to have to dress it up. And I appreciate the compliment.
                             
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