HEI Upgrade but No Spark (kinda)

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Ian McCrimmon

Ian McCrimmon

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OK heres the deal. Have a 1960 Valiant with a 1965 225 swapped by parties unknown in the past. No idea when it was last running but it turns over no problem.
The problem is I can't get it to fire. I am not getting any spark at all. I am getting full battery voltage to both sides of the coil (a Ford coil from a Crown Vic with electronic ignition- have tried two plua the original coil).
I have followed the wiring diagrams I found online and have installed a single magnetic pickup dizzy in place of the points. Installed a solid state VR (tried two different ones) and have bypassed the ballast resistor.
The one odd thing I noticed is when I put a timing light on it I get no flashes while cranking but I get one solid flash when I release the key from start to run.
The car had no keys nor a ignition tumbler and hacked wiring so I did re-wire a junkyard tumbler and re-soldered new terminals in the wiring.
Does this sound like I reversed the start and run wires? Its a real pain to remove the dash and tumbler so I thought I would inquire here and see if this scenario sounds plausable or if anyone has more to add.
All parts installed have come from the vineyard if this helps.
P.S. sorry for the wall of text!
 
HEI ---People throw this word around, are you talking about an actual GM style separate module?

Did you bypass the ballast resistor? Sounds like you left the bypass circuit "hanging." There should have been a brown coming out of the bulkhead that attached to the coil + end of the ballast resistor. The simple way to do that is to connect all of the ballast wires together and hook them to coil +, then hook the power wire from the module to coil +

Detail how you wired this up and what kind of module you used, IE GM 4 wire, 6 wire etc
How did you heat sink the module?

Also if you can, a link to the diagram you used would help---the two pickup wires are polarity specific
 
This is the "go to" diagram for a 4 wire GM module

4pin-jpg.jpg
 
Looking at my post I realize if I messed up the start/run wiring it might not turn over.
I attached a jumper wire in place of the ballast resistor so it has been deleted.
As to the diagram it's similar to what I did (and its a 4 wire GM HEI module) except I wired in the Magnacor style coil as opposed to the stock coil. Pick up wiring is as pictured and I tested the pickup for ohms and set the gap at .008 and used a new reductor.
I followed Dans upgrade page on Slantsix.org and utilized a relay and followed the wiring on that page. I cant attach it here as I am on my phone enjoying a few PBR and the weather on the deck waiting on the pork! But the thing that gets me is the flash/spark as I release the key to the run position.
Next step is to trace all the wiring from start to finish (ugh!) and go from there.
 
I will also try another module but from what I understand it's a pretty robust item. I have another GM module and a Standard unit (gotta love sale days at Pick n Pull!)
 
Just run battery voltage to the coil and the module. If everything else is correct it will start, if you have it connected by the picture shown. Run a hot wire from the battery if need be. Just disconnect the other ignition wire from the key first.
 
Hellrats said:
Just run battery voltage to the coil and the module. If everything else is correct it will start, if you have it connected by the picture shown. Run a hot wire from the battery if need be. Just disconnect the other ignition wire from the key first.
Click to expand...
Since it's close any harm in running a line from the field from the alternator strictly for testing purposes?
 
^^Agree you can simply jump power to the coil/ HEI. Test what it's doing. Clip a test lamp or meter to the coil +. Turn the key to run. Should have "same as battery" about 12.6V. Now twist the key and crank it while looking at the meter. If the meter goes to zero (or light out) it's not getting voltage, and your IGN2 is unhooked or defective, either bad connection at bulkhead connector, or trouble at the ignition switch
 
I suspect pickup coil, or module. This system gives ign spark from the coil when 12 is removed from the coil. Since you say you get a flash when you release the key, that tells me you have voltage to the coil and module, and you get the flash when releasing the key removes the 12 v.
The pickup coil triggers the module which in turn removes the 12 from the coil to give you spark. So, in your case the module is not removeing the 12 volts (in pulses)during cranking, either because the pickup coil, is not triggering the module, or the module itself is bad.

I can't really tell you how to "test" the pickup/module, as I'm spoiled by having a electronic component tester.
 
Going to try another module but I need a second set of hands and everyone I know has left town (long weekend here in Alberta) and my wife is scared to sit in the front seat. maybe it's the moss growing on the floorboards!
Also going to check to see if I get voltage as I crank it and then try full voltage to the coil.
Will update as I run through the suggestions provided.
 
Ian McCrimmon said:
Going to try another module but I need a second set of hands and everyone I know has left town (long weekend here in Alberta) and my wife is scared to sit in the front seat. maybe it's the moss growing on the floorboards!
Also going to check to see if I get voltage as I crank it and then try full voltage to the coil.
Will update as I run through the suggestions provided.
Click to expand...
You can crank it through the starter relay on the fender well if you need to do it from the engine compartment.
 
Charrlie_S said:
Since you say you get a flash when you release the key, that tells me you have voltage to the coil and module, and you get the flash when releasing the key removes the 12 v.
.
Click to expand...

You are leaving something out and jumping ahead. OP did not indicate that he "hot wired" the thing unless I missed it, and further, did not indicate he tested the cranking/ bypass circuit. REMEMBER IGN1 "run" goes dead WHEN CRANKING If ign2 is not connected, you will not have spark during cranking
 
Make SURE the module is grounded through the mounting bolts and "flat" on the heat sink.

Make sure you voltage during "cranking"

The Mopar dist. connector is subject to corrosion and intermittent connections. Make certain it is clean and tight. Work it in/out several times

You can hook your voltmeter to the dist. on low AC volts and crank the engine. It should generate about 1 V AC
 
67Dart273 said:
You are leaving something out and jumping ahead. OP did not indicate that he "hot wired" the thing unless I missed it, and further, did not indicate he tested the cranking/ bypass circuit. REMEMBER IGN1 "run" goes dead WHEN CRANKING If ign2 is not connected, you will not have spark during cranking
Click to expand...
I have voltage to the coil with the key in the run position but haven't confirmed voltage while cranking. I haven't bypassed anything yet and yes I have grounded the GM module and I am using the GM heatsink. I am currently out of town but I appreciate the possible fixes.
 
So this morning I tested the voltage during cranking-has power.
So then replaced the HEI module and started cranking-nice flashing timing light!
Stuck the fuel line in a jerry can-success! Took some trying but got it running!
 
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