Help! Doug's headers in 67 barracuda

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I know this thread is about Dougs, but TTI says the Borgeson mounting holes must be elongated to .81 inches so the steering box can be moved away from the engine. This is for G3 Hemi swaps in A-bodies but could work here (Note #12 in their fitment notes).
Also some guys elongate the holes in the firewall plate to move the steering shaft away from the back corner of the left hand hemi head. (#7 cylinder)
 
Interesting, I thought about enlarging the holes, I elected not to not knowing the torque loads from steering over time/ loosening bolts. I guess the engine side of hole could be closed up though. It also looked to me like this move would also change the Pitman position/ angle- probably not a big deal, we gotta do what we gotta do sometimes.
 
I had same problem with dougs headers k member is 6cylinder motor bought kit to change6to8 what motor mounts should i use 67 cuda 360 motor the ones that came with kit sit to low THANKS
 
Might be apples to bananas, but I put Patriot headers on a '67 dart with a 360 and had the same fitment issues. Has a Borgeson box and just touched the box, and rubbed the torsion bar on the passenger side. Must be a virus.
 
No one ever mentions this, but your engine can be moved up and down almost 1/2" with lifting the engine up or letting it down with loosening the engine mounts at the engine block. May or may not help your issues, but seems like you have it done.
 
Thanks for the help .What headers cost you think they would come up with a better idea Any other ideas would be helpfull THANKS
 
My experience was similar in my 68 Notch,340, original K. To minimize dimpling the brand new Doug's I ground the Borgeson box, and shimmed the engine towards passenger side 1/4", (I then had to completely rework the air cleaner hole in my plenum!). I still need to dimple driver side header @ T bar. I had the driver side header in and out probably 10 times through this process. Hated the thought of dimpling but no choice, I chose a large socket covered in a thick towel for the dimpling. All of this worth it for good long tube headers.

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67cuda360 said:
It seems from what I gathered that the stock power steering box would be okay. It'll be tight but from what other people said it should fit. You'll have the same issue with the steering column ('67 specific issue) getting very close to the #7 header tube, so you might have to clearance that.
One thing that might be an issue is that the steering centerlink/idler arm also is one year specific for '67 but summit does list that the headers fit on a 67 barracuda so you'll probably be fine. A mini starter is definitely a must if you have an automatic. Hope that helps. Oh, and you might want to pick up some new engine mounts before you start the install to make sure you minimize any fitment issues LOL. Good luck, let us know how it went.
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Would shorty headers be a better option for clearance issues or would it cause more problems. My 67 has a 73 kmember.
 
I had a bit of luck shimming the driverside motor mount. I used an old motor mount plate as a shim. Raised the drivers side about 1/8th inch for clearance. Off the steering column.
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moparmikie said:
Would shorty headers be a better option for clearance issues or would it cause more problems. My 67 has a 73 kmember.
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From memory, I recall being really disappointed in the lack of performance gains with shorties, I believe they flow pretty much like cast iron manifolds, I could be wrong. For that reason alone I decided to make the long tubes work whatever that meant. In summary, I had no choice but to use a Borgeson box and it needed clearancing (I was not interested in pulling everything out and dropping the K frame, install engine and headers to K then reinstall K frame to see if that worked) . To minimize dimpling tubes I also had luck with a 1/4" thick driver side motor mount shim. Good Luck!
 
I8NEMO said:
From memory, I recall being really disappointed in the lack of performance gains with shorties, I believe they flow pretty much like cast iron manifolds, I could be wrong. For that reason alone I decided to make the long tubes work whatever that meant. In summary, I had no choice but to use a Borgeson box and it needed clearancing (I was not interested in pulling everything out and dropping the K frame, install engine and headers to K then reinstall K frame to see if that worked) . To minimize dimpling tubes I also had luck with a 1/4" thick driver side motor mount shim. Good Luck!
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Thanks for the information, I will go with long tube, 1/4 shim and may look I to a hot rodding steering shaft to move it out of the way. What ever it takes to reduce dimples. This is why I went with 360 instead of 440, clearance.
 
moparmikie said:
Thanks for the information, I will go with long tube, 1/4 shim and may look I to a hot rodding steering shaft to move it out of the way. What ever it takes to reduce dimples. This is why I went with 360 instead of 440, clearance.
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Nice. Luckily I had no issues with my factory steering column. I'm glad I spent the dough on Doug's Headers, others like Hooker are way closer to the ground.
 
68383GTS said:
I put Dougs in my 318 68 Barracuda. The only issue I had the header almost hit the steering column. I used truck motor mounts which are a little taller and that took care of it. I have a mini starter and manual steering box.
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Hey, I know this is an old post but would you mind telling me which truck motor mounts you used for header clearance in your abody?
 
Diesel1276 said:
Hey, I know this is an old post but would you mind telling me which truck motor mounts you used for header clearance in your abody?
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I used the factory (318) car mounts and factory biscuits. I modified the driver side mount to work with the new 340. It worked out slick, the 2 rems from cutting (pic 5) are all that was needed. Good Luck!

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We put Doug's on a 70 duster factory 340 auto car.. only clearance that had to be was for the .103 torsion bar on driver's side. No rubbing, scraping or bad manners otherwise...
 
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