Help me get the right parts please.

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iw378

iw378

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As discovered in my earlier brake thread It appears that the 73 up BBP front disc brake has been done to my car.
ro49.jpg

It was questioned if the right master cylinder and proportioning valve were installed as well. Here's a pic of the master cylinder and I think it's not the right one.
nwid.jpg

Here's a crappy pic of the valve, it does have 5 brake line's
going into, out of it.
y2cv.jpg
.
I'd like to put new rotors, calipers, hoses and master cylinder on it.Non power brakes. It stops good now I just wanna get the right parts. Is the proportioning valve correct ? Also with this brake setup what tie rod ends will I need
Thanks for your patience
Luke
 
That looks like a drum brake master cylinder, the rear should have a bigger chamber on the disc brakes. Your original tie rod ends will hook up to what you have. I can't give definite help on the proportioning valve but I think it is just a distribution block. There is some cars made in your vintage that use a block shaped like Texas in front the rear end on the unibody frame.
 
How about the valve ? What does a drum drum valve look like compared to a drum disc valve ?
 
If the cylinder gives you a good pedal feel and doesn't require a great deal of pedal travel, use it. I just got done converting mine to the 73/4 front disk setup, and with rear disks off a Ferd Versaille, so all 4 disk. I'm using the 67 original drum brake master and it works just fine. I did pull the lines loose at the master and ran a nail (special tool LOL) into the fittings to rupture the residual valves.

I cannon see enough of your ? valve to tell what it is. Some disk cars had a prop/ metering valve separate from the warning switch. If proportioning is bad, I would not screw with the factory piece -- buy an aftermarket adjustable from Jegs / Summit. They are not very expensive

Some "stuff." There was a recent thread last couple of days, I posted some of the service manual stuff on these brakes

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=237357

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=231861

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=189489

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=81799

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=134889

https://www.google.com/search?um=1&...0.17.0....0...1c.1.27.img..17.0.0.pQ3DYVoIc9s
 
I can't find the other thread, here, again, are the relevant pages out of the 74 shop manual
 

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Picture:
73-76 Proportioning Valve.
 

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The purpose of the large chamber on the master cylinder is because the calipers take more fluid than the wheel cylinders to operate. I have heard of people getting by with using the drum master cylinder.

As your front pads wear the calipers will require more fluid therefor your fluid level will drop faster. If you don't keep an eye on it and the fluid level gets too low your brakes will go to hell. Then you will be back to bleeding them again until you get all the air out.

To me that is too much trouble to even have to think about what a remanufactured master cylinder can be bought for around $20 - $25 area.

The picture with the low fluid in your master cylinder indicates that the fluid level hasn't been kept up with already.

nwid.jpg
 
Personally I believe this issue is completely overblown. I don't put a LOT of miles on my 67, but the rear disk has been under there for a couple of years. I would say if you just check (and maybe top) the fluid every year, you'll have no issues.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
The purpose of the large chamber on the master cylinder is because the calipers take more fluid than the wheel cylinders to operate. I have heard of people getting by with using the drum master cylinder.

As your front pads wear the calipers will require more fluid therefor your fluid level will drop faster. If you don't keep an eye on it and the fluid level gets too low your brakes will go to hell. Then you will be back to bleeding them again until you get all the air out.

To me that is too much trouble to even have to think about what a remanufactured master cylinder can be bought for around $20 - $25 area.

The picture with the low fluid in your master cylinder indicates that the fluid level hasn't been kept up with already.

nwid.jpg
Click to expand...
The low fluid is being caused by the cap not being clamped down enough because the bail is shot.
 
I kind of went through this with my 67 with K/H disc brakes. I went through catalogs at work looking for the right master for my car. A reman I got two different part numbers one for disc one for drum, but when I looked up a new one they had the same part number for either drum or disc. So I got the one that was easiest to access which happily was also the most affordable also.
I agree with Del don't sweat it especially if your not having issues.
One thing you didn't mention and is probably the most important - you haven't complained about having any brake problems with your current setup. The prop valve looks correct for a later model. Mine just has the distribution block and it works just fine.
 
iw378 said:
I think that I have a proportioning valve. Would you guys agree ??
8ga2.jpg
Click to expand...


Yes. If it gives you any trouble, I'd get it out of there or figure a way to disable it (might be able to gut the one end) and add an adjustable one.
 
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