Help me sort out a 10 second build

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Mean416

Mean416

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Hey guys. Lofty ambitions but I'm thinking about this a lot lately. Have a new gig so financial situation is hopefully going to be stabilizing so I can think about a proper buildup again.

I'd like to use as much of what I have on hand as possible, but I'm not opposed to changing parts out to make a better combination. My goal is mid to high 10s with a rowdy car that I can also cruise around town in, drive to work on Fridays etc.

Here's what I currently have.

72 dart. It's pretty stock and unadulterated right now. I'm open to chassis changes as required. I obviously will need to make changes there. Open to suggestions.

I have a nicely machined 340 block, and a balanced Scat reciprocating assembly. 4" stroke. It's at a 4.080 bore. Align honed, cylinders honed with a deck plate, set up for studs etc. Works out to 418".

Forged icon flat top Pistons. It works out to almost 12:1 compression. I may need to run e85, will cross that bridge....

Edelbrock RPM heads. they're pretty much OOTB right now but I realize I will probably need work there. Open to your specific suggestions.

I have a m1 single plane. Pretty much untouched. I also have a RPM air gap, also stock.

I have a 727 with a cheetah reverse manual VB. I know it's not ideal but I'll probably stick with it and add a trans blanket for safety.

Currently have a 4200 stall converter from Hughes converters. I'm open to having this adjusted as required.

I currently have a hydraulic flat tappet voodoo cam 60405 but I'm assuming this isn't going to cut it. Solid roller required?

Hughes 1.6 rockers. Hedman 1-7/8 husler headers. 4.10 gears.

These are all things I currently have, open to suggestions on what needs to change. Just looking to get solidly into the 10s and have a crazy street car to cruise in sometimes.

Let me know what details you need.
 
Engine wise 10.50’s with a small block stroker is a cakewalk now. But you better make sure the suspension is up to it. 8 3/4 minimum with hopefully something like a 4.10 gear. Caltracks with Rancho shocks and 90/10’s in the front work for my son at 3200 pounds. Don’t baby out with a street converter jumping up to a 5400-5600 will get you there with a nice cooler bypassing the radiator. 727 or 904 with the usual good parts and a nice 1 7/8 header. Nice 850 plus E85 carb feeding ported Edelbrock heads and ported Victor340 intake. .620-.640 roller cam would be my go to if it was doing street duty. Frames tied, roll bar, then fasten your seatbelts and hold on. You should be faster than your target unless you are racing At Denver.
 
I'll leave the granular details to people with a lot more experience in this department, but I'm guessing straight away that you'll need about 500hp which that 418 with a solid roller and the bevy of other parts you have should be able to do.

shouldn't need to get to exotic on the suspension either.

sounds like a cool build that would be fun on the street
 
I'm running 5.80's 1/8 mile which calculates to 9.20's 1/4 mile. Car is 2500lbs with driver, suit and 5 gals of fuel. Running 1/8 mile with 416 stroker, 5.13 gears in a Dana 60 with double adjustable coil overs and double adjustable ladder bars on 10.5 x 29 tires. My avatar picture is my car, just FYI.
 
Mean416 said:
I'd like to use as much of what I have on hand as possible
Click to expand...

There are sufficient examples of guys with solid 10 second strokers here to have a good idea of the general range of cam needed. I’d look for a cam with about 255°@.050” and all the lift you can fit, solid flat or preferably a roller. Do some basic port/plenum work on the M1, and try the 4200 converter
I don’t think you need to change anything other than your cam for now. Certainly could go bigger on cam and converter if you’re being greedy. :lol:
 
You need to lighten up the car seeing it's stock now. Fiberglass hood, decklid and bumpers. If you are going to street drive it leave the heater and wipers on it, trust me. Is the windshield out? When you are working on the interior look at all the small spots and lighten as you go. You could also do the Hemi Dart front door glass with the seat belts and remove the guts on the rear windows. Lightweight front brakes work well. Lightweight wheels are a must. Motor looks good. Last but not least have FUN and go Fast!
 
You don't need a solid roller to run 10's with a small block. My 408 was 10.8-1, 260/264° @ .050", .628/.633" flat solid with 1.6 rockers, ported Edelbrocks, port matched Victor, 727, 9" converter that flashed 5400, 4.10 gears and a 325 radial, Cal-Tracs and split monos. It ran 6.57 @ 104 in the 1/8 on pump 93 @ 3240#. At the time I had Rancho 9 ways on the rear and CE 3 ways on the front. I'd recommend a decent set of double adjustable shocks if the budget allows.

If it were me, I'd tie the frames, 6 or 8 point roll bar, move the springs inboard and mini tub it. I had to move my rearend back on my 69 Dart 1" to clear the 28" tire, the other option would be to section the wheelwell opening and move the front section forward, 72's may be different though.

Light cars are easier on parts and easier to make fast.
 
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Mean416 said:
Hey guys. Lofty ambitions but I'm thinking about this a lot lately. Have a new gig so financial situation is hopefully going to be stabilizing so I can think about a proper buildup again.

I'd like to use as much of what I have on hand as possible, but I'm not opposed to changing parts out to make a better combination. My goal is mid to high 10s with a rowdy car that I can also cruise around town in, drive to work on Fridays etc.

Here's what I currently have.

72 dart. It's pretty stock and unadulterated right now. I'm open to chassis changes as required. I obviously will need to make changes there. Open to suggestions.

I have a nicely machined 340 block, and a balanced Scat reciprocating assembly. 4" stroke. It's at a 4.080 bore. Align honed, cylinders honed with a deck plate, set up for studs etc. Works out to 418".

Forged icon flat top Pistons. It works out to almost 12:1 compression. I may need to run e85, will cross that bridge....

Edelbrock RPM heads. they're pretty much OOTB right now but I realize I will probably need work there. Open to your specific suggestions.

I have a m1 single plane. Pretty much untouched. I also have a RPM air gap, also stock.

I have a 727 with a cheetah reverse manual VB. I know it's not ideal but I'll probably stick with it and add a trans blanket for safety.

Currently have a 4200 stall converter from Hughes converters. I'm open to having this adjusted as required.

I currently have a hydraulic flat tappet voodoo cam 60405 but I'm assuming this isn't going to cut it. Solid roller required?

Hughes 1.6 rockers. Hedman 1-7/8 husler headers. 4.10 gears.

These are all things I currently have, open to suggestions on what needs to change. Just looking to get solidly into the 10s and have a crazy street car to cruise in sometimes.

Let me know what details you need.
Click to expand...
Why don't you start with what you got work out the bugs for best performance then figure out next steps to reach your goal.
 
Because I know that the combination of parts I have laying around is not the best for what I want to achieve. I do have some very nice capable stuff but I want to do this once if possible. It's cheaper to do it that way.
 
Mean416 said:
Because I know that the combination of parts I have laying around is not the best for what I want to achieve. I do have some very nice capable stuff but I want to do this once if possible. It's cheaper to do it that way.
Click to expand...


That’s why I suggested a few overkill ideas. If it went 10.50 I know you would want to go faster. Lol
 
Mean416 said:
Because I know that the combination of parts I have laying around is not the best for what I want to achieve. I do have some very nice capable stuff but I want to do this once if possible. It's cheaper to do it that way.
Click to expand...
I just figured be nice to work from a baseline then dial it in, I'd probably just port the heads the run the rest as is and play with cam, intake, gears, stall etc.. until I got it where I want it, but each to his own.
 
The first thing that needs attention is the heads and intake. they need to be opened up.
 
273 said:
I just figured be nice to work from a baseline then dial it in, I'd probably just port the heads the run the rest as is and play with cam, intake, gears, stall etc.. until I got it where I want it, but each to his own.
Click to expand...


I like simplicity. I took a fresh engine to the track last year with a brand new carb on it that I lowered the jet size three sizes as delivered. I ran 6.06 or 6.07 on its first pass. I never changed a jet or timing all year. Only once did I have to adjust the valves. I’m not a test n tuner, change parts and test again so I want to do it right and only once. I monitor things at home during the week from my RacePak recordings.
 
If you're not fast at Denver, you're not fast enough. kidding of course.
We have a guy here in Idaho that dyno's his engines at 5,000 ft. lol
 
pittsburghracer said:
I like simplicity. I’m not a test n tuner, change parts and test again so I want to do it right and only once.
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I’m sure you didn’t arrive at your combo day one, wouldn’t be the accumulation of your years racing and when you build a new engine any changes would be based off your experiences to allow you to get it right in first go?

I threw my 2 cents in the OP can do whatever he wants.
 
I'm all about leveraging the experience of those who have done it. I don't have the money and especially don't have the time to be juggling parts around. For example changing a cam out from a flat tappet hydraulic setup and upgrading to a solid roller setup is something I want to do before the engine is in the car. And I for sure don't want to have to drop the transmission to swap a torque converter if I don't have to. Better to get the stuff done up front.

I don't have a need to experiment. All this stuff has been done before and I have nothing to prove. I just want a very fast car and I'm okay with following an established recipe to get there.
 
Mean416 said:
I'm all about leveraging the experience of those who have done it. I don't have the money and especially don't have the time to be juggling parts around. For example changing a cam out from a flat tappet hydraulic setup and upgrading to a solid roller setup is something I want to do before the engine is in the car. And I for sure don't want to have to drop the transmission to swap a torque converter if I don't have to. Better to get the stuff done up front.

I don't have a need to experiment. All this stuff has been done before and I have nothing to prove. I just want a very fast car and I'm okay with following an established recipe to get there.
Click to expand...
I'm Not trying to convince you otherwise do what you want. I've got nothing further to add.
 
Mean416 said:
I don't have a need to experiment. All this stuff has been done before and I have nothing to prove. I just want a very fast car and I'm okay with following an established recipe to get there.
Click to expand...
All I gave was a suggestion take or leave it, I really don't care, no need to be condescending.
 
273 said:
All I gave was a suggestion take or leave it, I really don't care, no need to be condescending.
Click to expand...
Well, if you had been there and done that it would be one thing but reading your replies assures everyone that your just adding in two rotten cents of nonsense advice and suggestions that have no place in the thread.

Mean416 is asking those that have been there and done that not what you would do since you haven’t been there and are not helping. He has a targeted goal with a no nonsense mind set that bothers you.

Seems like it’s time for you to move on.
 
Mean416 said:
Hey guys. Lofty ambitions but I'm thinking about this a lot lately. Have a new gig so financial situation is hopefully going to be stabilizing so I can think about a proper buildup again.

I'd like to use as much of what I have on hand as possible, but I'm not opposed to changing parts out to make a better combination. My goal is mid to high 10s with a rowdy car that I can also cruise around town in, drive to work on Fridays etc.

Here's what I currently have.

72 dart. It's pretty stock and unadulterated right now. I'm open to chassis changes as required. I obviously will need to make changes there. Open to suggestions.

I have a nicely machined 340 block, and a balanced Scat reciprocating assembly. 4" stroke. It's at a 4.080 bore. Align honed, cylinders honed with a deck plate, set up for studs etc. Works out to 418".

Forged icon flat top Pistons. It works out to almost 12:1 compression. I may need to run e85, will cross that bridge....

Edelbrock RPM heads. they're pretty much OOTB right now but I realize I will probably need work there. Open to your specific suggestions.

I have a m1 single plane. Pretty much untouched. I also have a RPM air gap, also stock.

I have a 727 with a cheetah reverse manual VB. I know it's not ideal but I'll probably stick with it and add a trans blanket for safety.

Currently have a 4200 stall converter from Hughes converters. I'm open to having this adjusted as required.

I currently have a hydraulic flat tappet voodoo cam 60405 but I'm assuming this isn't going to cut it. Solid roller required?

Hughes 1.6 rockers. Hedman 1-7/8 husler headers. 4.10 gears.

These are all things I currently have, open to suggestions on what needs to change. Just looking to get solidly into the 10s and have a crazy street car to cruise in sometimes.

Let me know what details you need.
Click to expand...
No cam suggested here as the ones offered are good enough. Check the stickies up top the racers forum.
For sure, get the heads very well ported along with the intake which should be the M1. You’ll have enough cubic inches to use it well on the big end.

FWIW, I love @pittsburghracer ’s sons car combo.
Also, FWIW, don’t be scared of a big cam and converter. Get yourself (AKA - Spend the money) on a really good converter for this endeavor. It’ll make the world of a difference.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Well, if you had been there and done that it would be one thing but reading your replies assures everyone that your just adding in two rotten cents of nonsense advice and suggestions that have no place in the thread.
Click to expand...
Did I recommend any parts I left that in the people in the know
rumblefish360 said:
Mean416 is asking those that have been there and done that not what you would do since you haven’t been there and are not helping. He has a targeted goal with a no nonsense mind set that bothers you.
Click to expand...
I seen something from a different angle he may not thought of, it's fine if it's something he's not interested in, I don't care, no need to be a dick.
rumblefish360 said:
Seems like it’s time for you to move on.
Click to expand...
I f$#king post what when I want and I'll keep responding if feel like doing so.
You guys' are ridiculous this really didn't need to be an argument.
 
@273 I'm not trying to be condescending or anything. I appreciate your input. It's just that I barely have time with everything going on. I can't afford to experiment.
 
273 said:
Did I recommend any parts I left that in the people in the know

I seen something from a different angle he may not thought of, it's fine if it's something he's not interested in, I don't care, no need to be a dick.

I f$#king post what when I want and I'll keep responding if feel like doing so.
You guys' are ridiculous this really didn't need to be an argument.
Click to expand...
Then why reply?
Mean416 said:
@273 I'm not trying to be condescending or anything. I appreciate your input. It's just that I barely have time with everything going on. I can't afford to experiment.
Click to expand...
That much was obvious to all but him.
 
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