Help with carb flooding.

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plym69

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Sometime ago I was having a problem with the carb seeming to be boiling when I shut off the engine and then it was difficult to start. So I had the carb professionally rebuilt - fixed the heat riser { new spring and it works smoothly } Removed the intake manifold and cleaned out the crossover exhaust ports - moved the fuel filter away from the carb to an area near the fender well. And after all that I still have the same problems plus a slight hesitation when I step on the gas at cruising. I'm at a loss as to what to do next. A friend said attach clothes pins to the fuel line. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks Ken
 
66340SEDAN said:
What brand carb?
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Eddie obviously. :D
Maybe not, but where have we heard this before? :)

Cleaning the crossover out made it worse probably, as the crossover needs to be blocked off to keep the temps down at the carb.
If you don't have it, a nice big phenolic or wood spacer helps a lot.

The problem with the clothes pins idea is that the fuel is boiling after it's in the carb bowls and the clothes pins used to be used for vapor lock in the fuel lines.

Building a fuel circulation/return system can help a bit, but it does not address fuel temps after the fuel is in the carb already.
It just makes it where the fuel that goes into the carb is cooler that it would normally be from sitting in the fuel lines under the hood before it goes into the carb,
 
The carb is a carter 2brl b&b. Before the crossover was cleaned the paint had burned off the intake manifold around the choke. Now it shows some degree of high heat but the paint has not burned away. Ken
 
plym69 said:
The carb is a carter 2brl b&b. Before the crossover was cleaned the paint had burned off the intake manifold around the choke. Now it shows some degree of high heat but the paint has not burned away. Ken
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Probably the quickest least expensive way to solve the problems then would be an insulating spacer and making sure the fuel lines are clear of high heat areas or wrapped or covered.

Stopping that hot exhaust from crossing through the intake would be a huge help, but that can be done later when you can or want to.
 
Thanks. Do you think if I double the gasket that it might help?
 
What gasket do you have now? It should be about 5/16 " thick from the factory.
 
you're right mguner, it should have the thick gasket. Also you should check the air cleaner hot air system. It's the pipe that comes off the exhaust manifold and attaches to the air cleaner snorkel. In the snorkel there is a metal flap. That flap should be closed when engine is cold and open when air is warm enough. There is a sensor on the underside of the air cleaner that senses air temp, I may not be functioning properly. To test your problem try running an open air cleaner to see if it still does it. Other thing I've done is install a metal sheild between the carb base gasket and the carb. Some 60's - 70's cars had the shield in from the factory. If you can't find one just make one useing the base gasket for a template. Ive worked on these cars when they were new and usually it's the sensor. A lot of them did not work properly. Good luck!
 
If you do block that crossover, make sure to also block that heat riser wide open. Otherwise, you will create even more problems! Plus your choke (assuming stock) won't work right either with the crossover blocked.

Insulate the gas lines, & keep them away from heat if possible. Thick (1/2" or more) phenolic spacer under the carb would also help.

Clothespins aren't going to help. They never did.
 
plym69 said:
Thanks. Do you think if I double the gasket that it might help?
Click to expand...

A scoop would pretty much fix it.
JK:D

I never saw the answer if you did, about the gasket or insulator you have now.
Is it just a gasket, or a half inch thick thing and can you tell what it is made of?
 
Having trouble logging in. The carb gasket is 3/8 " thick and there is no snorkel valve. Most of the gas line is metal with the fuel filter moved to the area opposite the rt. wheel inner fender. Perhaps that is getting heat from the exhaust manifold but now being far from the carb I'm thinking that it shouldn't affect the flooding condition. At a loss. Ken
 
I did a rebuild on my carb and failed to properly tighten the new seats. Fuel was leaking past the threads even when the floats were all the way up. The engine would run, but if I let it idle very long at all it would flood. I could look down the throat and see fuel dripping. Even if that's not your problem you might want to check your fuel line pressure.

Do you have any trouble idling, or only after you shut if off. This advice would be applicable if you were having trouble idling. Otherwise sounds like a heat problem. Carter/Edelbrock carbs are known for that. But do the 2bbl's have that problem?
 
Had this problem with my 'teen / Eddy combo. I could hear the fuel boiling it seemed.
I replaced the spacer that was between the intake and the carb. It had a 3/8" and I went to a 1/2", new gaskets on top and bottom.
Next I used this:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/32090/10002/-1
on the fuel line from where it comes into the engine compartment to the fuel pump.
I did this section since it runs along the inside of the fender well near the header on that side. Next, I did from the bottom of the firewall about 2' towards the rear of the car. That is where the steel fuel line is near the exhaust collector.
I have not had the problem again, even driving in 100* + weather.
No hot start issues, No vapor lock during extended idle, No boiling sound from the Eddy, and No fuel dripping into the carb throats.
Best $20 buck I have spent in a long time.
I am not sure about the /6 but I think your fuel pump is on the passenger side and the fuel line runs up from that side of the fire wall then crosses up over the motor to the carb. I would want to sleeve that line, replace it with braided SS or a combination of both.
Todays blended fuels boil at extremely temps and when you are under light load, ie. idle, slow cruise in a residential neighborhood etc, there is not enough fuel flowing through the line to keep it cool.
Good luck!
Let us know how it all works out.
 
Thickest base spacer gasket you can find. I got approx' half inch listed for 75 model.
Then I needed to readjust the choke heater link. Also important is the bowl vent. If the vent doesn't open the vapor has nowhere to go except down the intake.
 
Ordered heat sleeve suggested by Swies. Hope it makes a difference. Ken
 
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