HELP!! Wont start fo break-in!

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I'll try putting the battery back in the trunk now that it's broke in and maybe loosened up a little. If it still doesn't work, I guess I'll have to replace the cable. The cable I used came with the battery relocation kit from Summit. It's B.S. that they would include cable that doesn't work.
 
I used welders cable also, and I ran a ground of the same gauge to the engine.

Are you using 1 cable or two? Are you grounding the engine to the battery ?

Measure your voltage at the starter both during cranking and not.
If there is too much voltage drop during cranking, then you need more cable or a better connection somewhere.
 
trapster said:
I used welders cable also, and I ran a ground of the same gauge to the engine.

Are you using 1 cable or two? Are you grounding the engine to the battery ?

Measure your voltage at the starter both during cranking and not.
If there is too much voltage drop during cranking, then you need more cable or a better connection somewhere.
Click to expand...

I have the engine grounded to the right frame rail with 4 GA fine strand cable. The Battery is grounded to the right frame rail in the the rear with the Summit Supplied 1 GA cable (I have subframe connectors welded in, so there should be continuity).

I haven't measured voltage drop at the starter during cranking yet (didn't want to crank too much before break-in). Now that I got the initial break-in done, I'll try that.
 
Didn't look at that tonight. I adjusted the rockers and buttoned up a couple other things. Is it normal for roller rockers and beehive springs to make some noise? Doesn't sound like anything bad, just sounds like them going up and down.
Just thought of something, maybe a couple pushrods are rubbing the guide plates. Don't know, never had roller rockers or guide plates. They are magnum heads, with a set of roller rockers from Hughes (not the aluminum ones on their website, they are stainless PRW rockers) with beehive springs. Cam is a Hughes 3742AL, so with the 1.65 rockers, the lift is at .607/.612 and 237/242. The cam has more lift than any cam I've had too, so I don't know if the sound is normal. It's not a tapping or ticking, kind of sounds like a bowling ball rolling across concrete or something. Hard to explain.
 
That is a lot of lift for the duration of the cam. Lots.

Heck sure it make great power if the cam lives.

I'm old school. I found an older nos Crane cam, at 230 it has .465 lift with 1.5 rockers. Might not be very powerful to other 230 cams but I got a feeling 5 years later the lobes on the cam will all still be there.
 
The big lifter size in Small Block Mopars makes them so a shorter duration cam with more lift can be used. The lobes are also not symmetrical, so the angle of the lifter going up isn't bad. A Comp or Crane cam with that kind of lift would probably have around 260 for duration (@.050), probably 290 advertised.

I sure hope it's got power. I've pouring money into it for almost a year and a half now.
 
Put the battery back in the trunk today, and everything works. I didn't do anything different, unless a connection wasn't tight the first time. Don't know what it was. Now I have to figure out how to get the carb tuned.
 
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