HELP!! Wont start fo break-in!

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Ok, with #1 at the top, and dist pointing to #6, when I turned the engine, the #1 intake valve started opening. So is it right, or is it 180 off?
 
toolmanmike said:
Did you say the timing marks on the cam and crank are both at 12:00?
The cam mark should be at 6:00 and the crank gear mark at 12:00. they should be pointing at each other.
Click to expand...

When you install the cam, you match the marks up, crank at 12, cam at 6. This is to line it up, but it's actually TDC for #6. To get to to #1 TDC, you rotate the crank one full turn, which rotates the cam 1/2 turn, and puts #1 at TDC (both marks at 12:00).

See end of page 4 and bottom of page 6 of this:
http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/New_Camshaft_InstructionsMar2010.pdf
 
crackedback said:
both at 12 is #1 firing.

If you put it at crank 12, cam 6 it's #6 firing.

Guess where the cam timing dot is when you rotate the crank 1 revolution?

Watch the #1 intake valve when you roll over the engine, when it starts to close, look for the timing mark/cover, it's on compression that time by.
Click to expand...

Both marks pointing up and not pointing at each other you are at #6 tdc. The marks should be pointing at each other....Crank mark straight up @ 12:00 and the cam mark straight down @ 6:00 to be timed at #1.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong:
If the intake valve is just starting to open, then the exhaust valve just closed, which means the rotor should just be passing #6.
If this is correct, then I have it installed correctly.
 
toolmanmike said:
Both marks pointing up and not pointing at each other you are at #6 tdc. The marks should be pointing at each other....Crank mark straight up @ 12:00 and the cam mark straight down @ 6:00 to be timed at #1.
Click to expand...

Um, both #1 and #6 are BOTH at TDC when the crank dot is up...

Firing if the cam dot is at 6 it's #6 firing and at 12 it's #1 firing. I just did this last week on a 340.
 
64physhy said:
Correct me if I'm wrong:
If the intake valve is just starting to open, then the exhaust valve just closed, which means the rotor should just be passing #6.
If this is correct, then I have it installed correctly.
Click to expand...

Just bump the engine until #1 intake closes up, that's #1 firing as the balancer mark comes to the cover timing mark. NO BS about cam crank dots or anything else.
 
64physhy said:
I'm positive that the distributor is in the right way. When I had the timing cover off, I put it at TDC (cam and crank timing marks both at 12 O'clock) and lined up and marked the distributor then.

I was a bit startled when physhy said the marks were both straight up when he had the timing cover off and wondered if it was timed correctly. For #6 yes but not for #1. Mike
Click to expand...
 
crackedback said:
Just bump the engine until #1 intake closes up, that's #1 firing as the balancer mark comes to the cover timing mark. NO BS about cam crank dots or anything else.
Click to expand...
Exactly. I never even need to pull the valve cover. I just bump the starter till it tries to blow my finger off the number 1 hole with the plug out. then with a socket and breaker bar align damper and cover marks at tdc.Doesnt matter how cams phased. Then turn distributor till rotors pointing at number 1. Do you have points? if so make sure they are opening and closing.
 
crackedback said:
Just bump the engine until #1 intake closes up, that's #1 firing as the balancer mark comes to the cover timing mark. NO BS about cam crank dots or anything else.
Click to expand...

that is correct...watch #1 intake close...then as the balancer comes around it is no 1 firing.....
 
Ok. So my distributor is good. Seems like I'm not getting spark. Also, the engine turns over really sluggishly when I'm cranking it, like when you have a dead battery or weak starter, but both are new. I noticed that it seems like the oil pump is tight when I was doing the pre-lube. It turned easy at first, but then got stiff, and my old drill was struggling to spin it. I twas thinking it was just because of the heavy oil in it since it turned easy at first. The starter and battery are new. I've tried hooking up with jumper cables to my truck, and that didn't make a difference.
 
This man knows his stuff, both at 12 o clock is # 1 fire or as daredevel said will also work, problem so far is no spark so use the technique I described to verify when you have that problem corrected, then as 68 runner suggested look for all grounds to be clean(wire wheel the bolt's,tap the threads where the bolts go,check for ground from body to engine cleaning every connection as you go) if the air gap inside the distributor is to wide this can be a problem check factory service manual for proper air gap and testing of the pickup. and from what you said.....no problem with the oil pump it will be harder to spin after it starts pumping oil
crackedback said:
both at 12 is #1 firing.

If you put it at crank 12, cam 6 it's #6 firing.

Guess where the cam timing dot is when you rotate the crank 1 revolution?

Watch the #1 intake valve when you roll over the engine, when it starts to close, look for the timing mark/cover, it's on compression that time by.
Click to expand...
 
Which ignition do you have? I've had the box go bad on a mopar elect. ign.when I did an engine swap. The car wouldnt start, swapped boxes,fired up..
If you were 180 out and it was sparking it would be trying to do something,,shooting flames threw the carb..lol

coils go bad to,,not often but it happens
keep plugging away,you;ll get it!!!!!!!
keep lubing the motor to
 
There is power to the coil. I tried Waggin's advice on turning the distributor with the ignition on to see if I was getting spark, and I was not, so i checked for power from the coil to the cap, and there's power going to the cap. Then I ran a jumper from the coil wire terminal inside the cap to the terminal for the number 1 plug wire, and got power to the end of the plug wire. The ground points are good. I sanded down to bare metal on them before I ever tried to fire it up. I used new bolts on them, so there's no corrosion issues. The only thing I can think of now is maybe the rotor contact is not close enough to the plug contacts. Like i said, it worked before ( a few days ago) so i don't know why it wouldn't now unless I bumped it or something. How close should it be? The instructions that came with the MSD didn't say.

I have an MSD E-Curve that I tried out on the old engine before I pulled it so that if there were any problems, I could take care of them before I ran into problems during break-in. It worked then, so I don't know why it's not working now.
 
green1 said:
Do you have power to to the coil in crank?
Click to expand...
good question.

did you say when you ran the jumper wire there was power to the plug?
did you try to start it? (if that was said, I didnt read it clearly)

this isnt an insult ,,,but,,, do you have any friends around with equal or more experience, a fresh set of eyes
 
I got it going! I moved the battery back to the front because I was thinking maybe there was too much draw coming from the trunk and also swapped out the coil. Not sure which it was, but suspect the draw from the battery. Now that it's had the initial break-in, I can troubleshoot and figure it out without worrying as much. I was NOT 180 off on my timing (which I lined up with both marks at 12:00). This thing is a BEAST!! My ears hurt. It sounds like I need to adjust a couple valves and make some carb adjustments, but otherwise, sounds great!!
 
Cool you got it running. Always a relief when you can get through break in.
 
Great to hear you got it going. Too bad we all didn't know about your trunk mounted battery. Our diagnosis would have gone in a different direction from the start. Lots of things don't work properly when your ground runs to a bolt in the trunk.
 
I thought I mentioned the battery in the OP. Maybe not, I also posted on Moparts, and posted in the OP there. It is a great relief. The timing was almost balls-on when I got it going. Need to make some carb adjustments and Valve adjustments. It wasn't the coil, I swapped back and it started up again, so it had to have been the battery relocation. How is that overcome? Do you need a battery with 1000 cranking AMPs, or what? The one I have is 935 cranking Amps and 750 CCA. I have 1 gauge cable from the battery to the starter (from the trunk). Stock is only 6 gauge. Maybe the cable I got from Summit has too much resistance. Don't know. Any ideas?
 
I used to use the same cable as welders used and I bought it at the welder supply stores, can't remember what size, and you want the fine wire, not positive why but I think it was that the fine has less voltage drop than the coarse over the same length. The ends I also got pressed on at the welding shop to make sure they were perfect and solid.
 
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