Hemi 5.7 swap, engine angle/pitch/tilt?
- Thread starter cudalord
- Start date
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Joe Dokes
Well-Known Member
Seems to have a bit more tilt than some of the ones I've seen, but it's hard to tell from the pic. Post a few more pics. Are you using spool mounts or the biscuit type? Biscuit insulators vary in overall thickness so trying a different one might tilt the engine a little.
To prove that the trans is level throw an angle finder on the output shaft of the transmission to make sure the trans is level. If the trans checks out, then I'd relax, because what you're really concerned about is driveshaft angle.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
To prove that the trans is level throw an angle finder on the output shaft of the transmission to make sure the trans is level. If the trans checks out, then I'd relax, because what you're really concerned about is driveshaft angle.
Regards,
Joe Dokes
Furious65
C-body Guy
How can your trans be level yet not the engine? I just can't see how that is possible.
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Thats simple, motor mounts could be angled, loose, just not right, the list goes on. As Joe Dokes said, I would check the output shaft on the trans, if its right, then dont worry cause a efi motor will run upside down...for awhile anyways. Also use a level on the intake ports on the heads to check your level and angle.
For all intents and purposes, most engines are at somewhere around a 3 degree angle (+/-). It's is as Joe sezs, to maintain driveline angles. Check a carburetor intake and you will notice that the carb pad angles down to the front in relation to the intake ports.
Furious65
C-body Guy
Yes, I understand that the engine/trans may be installed at an angle from the factory but I don't see how one can be level and not the other as they bolt together. If your trans is level then your engine should be as well.
Hi Cudalord , the part where you metioned 518 got my attention , As you would already know the 518 trans requires some tunnel mods , is it a possability that the rear of the trans is not high enough .
Years ago I put an A500 OD into an A body which required major tunnel mods including cutting out and re- fabbing centre of torsion bar cross member and making new trans member.
Years ago I put an A500 OD into an A body which required major tunnel mods including cutting out and re- fabbing centre of torsion bar cross member and making new trans member.
Guys, thanks for all the feedback, that really helps. Mo-Cars, I was able to trim some of the casting off of the transmission so that it fit the tunnel just fine. I only had to make one cut in the floor so that the overdrive/lockup switches that I put in had clearance.
After seeing your suggestions, most of them suggesting this is NOT normal, I looked closely around the entire engine to see if there may be any obstructions,and the exhaust manifold was slightly touching the power steering box, and one of the bolts on the a/c was touching the kframe. Just a tiny bit, but enough to maybe hang it up there. So, the engine and tranny are coming back out so that I can do a little more modification to get it to fit.
I also checked with a level on the trans, but I was using the pan as a reference. The trans has to come up maybe 1/4 inch, but that won't bring the motor to level, as it sits, once I get it tucked in there. I'll use the output shaft to check to see if its level when I crawl under there tonight.
I talked to another guy doing an identical build, and he said that his engine was on a slight angle as well, so I think I'm OK once I make a few more modifications. Just posting this for future reference for others.
Thanks guys!
After seeing your suggestions, most of them suggesting this is NOT normal, I looked closely around the entire engine to see if there may be any obstructions,and the exhaust manifold was slightly touching the power steering box, and one of the bolts on the a/c was touching the kframe. Just a tiny bit, but enough to maybe hang it up there. So, the engine and tranny are coming back out so that I can do a little more modification to get it to fit.
I also checked with a level on the trans, but I was using the pan as a reference. The trans has to come up maybe 1/4 inch, but that won't bring the motor to level, as it sits, once I get it tucked in there. I'll use the output shaft to check to see if its level when I crawl under there tonight.
I talked to another guy doing an identical build, and he said that his engine was on a slight angle as well, so I think I'm OK once I make a few more modifications. Just posting this for future reference for others.
Thanks guys!
Furious65
C-body Guy
Hmm, I was under the impression that you couldn't fit a 3rd Gen with the PS gearbox. Are you saying you can get it to work? I ask because I would like to keep my PS if I ever get around to doing a 5.7 swap in my Duster.
Mr.Ed
Swollen Member
It's an E-body 'Cuda.
Furious65
C-body Guy
Ah, I thought this was an A-body swap. Makes sense now.
lxmodguy
Gen3 Hemi Guru
The drivetrain angle depends on the rear end type. If you have a solid rear axle you need your angle set between 3-6 degrees. I personally set mine at 3 degrees for now. That give the rear end flex room as you apply the power to it. Now if you are running a stock 5.7 hemi you probably aren't going to move it nearly as much. We set the rear end first, and then lined up the trans and motor.
I am going to probably convert my car to a challenger IRS in the future, at that point since the rear end is a floating center that doesnt move, it will be set at a zero angle.
I am going to probably convert my car to a challenger IRS in the future, at that point since the rear end is a floating center that doesnt move, it will be set at a zero angle.
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