Here we go again, WHAT SPARK PLUGS

-
1wild&crazyguy just likes to stir the pot. No worries. The only stupid question is the one not asked.
 
AdamR said:
1wild&crazyguy just likes to stir the pot. No worries. The only stupid question is the one not asked.
Click to expand...

not too much, and yes I agree the only stupid question is the one not asked.
I guess to me It's how you go about asking it and how many times.lol
jmo8)


I still 'like my original post' recommend to start with stock heat range plugs for a 340.
 
AdamR said:
which would be an autolite 65
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm just not gonna reference any brand as so 'She'[now that I caught her groin kick about boy intimidated by girls thinger] can make a decision in this too.:cheers:

cross reference it to the brand of your choice op'r

happy motoring:glasses9:
 
I haven't been terribly impressed by the Autolite plugs. My favorite is the NGK GR4GP or "G-power" plug. The slightly more expensive V-power plugs burn up too quickly, but run extremely well before they do. NGK plugs are available everywhere.
 
drive48 said:
thanks for the lack of bashing
i guess the boys are still intimidated by girls
Click to expand...
Dont worry,being a guy,I feel I sometimes ask questions that I should know also,its all relevant.:toothy10:Ive worked on and been around older cars my entire life,I dont know everything about them but I love learning.
But as to your question,I put Autolites in my 360 Duster and runs very good(gapped at .35)
Sparkplug.gif

And as far as Champion plugs go,Ive used them in my GLH Turbo,a bit colder ones for the 6 years Ive owned the car and never had problems.I guess its a matter of personal preference maybe?By the way,nice Dart you have ,you did a nice job
Good luck!:cheers:
 
mopardude318 said:
I've never had a problem with NGK. They are a good plug.
Click to expand...

ANY Suggestions to those who've experienced this? I MAY BE IGNORANT BUT STILL LEARNING.

i put ngk gr5's in today.
when i snap the throttle from idle (around 900rpm), the time between the second i snap the throttle and the rpm takes off is a good 1 second or more. the fuel is shooting in good from the nozzles as the eye can see.
what should i be checking ANY ORDER TO START?

IT IS A 340 with 4 speed 484 PURPLE CAM
holley fuel pump regulator set at 7 psi
i'm running the msd non vac mechanical dist. msd7al-3 with coil.
holley 650 cfm now , but not sure if that is my problem
i set initial timing to 18-20 degrees and 750-900 rpm. ran it 8-10 minutes.
hit WOT then shut it down. the new plugs are white all aroung except where its rather dark brown near the stem/electrode.
almost as if it's too rich. there are some eye burning fumes from the tailpipes. Stock jets in the 650 cfm double pumper.
 
It sounds to me as though the idle mixture is too rich and the squirters are too small. First I would adjust the idle mixture when warm and in gear to the highest possible vacuum reading. If you have have to screw the idle mixture screws almost all the way in, you may have a blown power valve.

Next, if it is bogging at no load, I would bump up the squirter size and see how it runs off idle from a dead stop. Then comes top end WOT throttle testing in a safe place.... This will be how you determine your main jet size.
 
I personally am not a fan of autolites as i have seen the porsalin that surrounds the electrode literally fall off into a cylinder and I have also seen the electrodes burn off completely after a few miles in a ford ranger.....(given it was a ford LOL and to top it off it was the 8 spark plugged 4 cylinder mazda contraption ford decided to use in there rangers) .

BUT alot of people like autolites.

I personally have ALWAYS ran champions in my chryslers, motorcrafts in my fords , ac delcos in my GM's and Bosch in my more foreign crap and NGK's in my four wheelers and dirt bikes and what not.

but to each his own, I say a champion will do you good though!
 
Alright everyone, let's keep it cool and not hi jack the thread with arguing lol. Everyone has an opinion on spark plugs and enough opinions have been given that I am sure you should have no problem finding the right plug for you!.

P.s. I can't stand when people stereo type people as stupid or lesser than just because they wouldn't make it far in a spelling bee.

Anyhow.... With that said, maybe everyone can go back to the original subject
 
ramcharger said:
It sounds to me as though the idle mixture is too rich and the squirters are too small. First I would adjust the idle mixture when warm and in gear to the highest possible vacuum reading. If you have have to screw the idle mixture screws almost all the way in, you may have a blown power valve.

Next, if it is bogging at no load, I would bump up the squirter size and see how it runs off idle from a dead stop. Then comes top end WOT throttle testing in a safe place.... This will be how you determine your main jet size.
Click to expand...
i will start there and update where how i make out.
 
ramcharger said:
It sounds to me as though the idle mixture is too rich and the squirters are too small. First I would adjust the idle mixture when warm and in gear to the highest possible vacuum reading. If you have have to screw the idle mixture screws almost all the way in, you may have a blown power valve.

Next, if it is bogging at no load, I would bump up the squirter size and see how it runs off idle from a dead stop. Then comes top end WOT throttle testing in a safe place.... This will be how you determine your main jet size.
Click to expand...

Does your Holley have a 2 or 4 corner idle mixture? If you have the 4 corner setup, it can be a little tricky to set and you might be rich. Also, (maybe I missed this in the thread) do you have the gap on your plugs (whatever brand) set wider than normal? The MSD can be set much wider than a stock ignition.
 
spankmeister7 said:
I haven't been terribly impressed by the Autolite plugs. My favorite is the NGK GR4GP or "G-power" plug. The slightly more expensive V-power plugs burn up too quickly, but run extremely well before they do. NGK plugs are available everywhere.
Click to expand...

you know what, this is bs.

amazing how my original quoting of your post disappears, and yours you edit.

whats really going moderators.

good bye.
 
Justin, The only thing I deleted was totally off topic. We all know your strong opinionated, Just try to be a little less harsh and cut throat to others. Thats all I ask.
 
I'm gonna echo Adam here and suggest similar advice but not just towards you Justain, but to everyone not directly helping the thread.
 
I believe I´ve read on the NGK site that for every 70-100 you increase the power you should be 1 step colder on the plugs.
Also read that it´s safer to start with a too cold plug than a too hot..if you´re not sure what to use.
Anyone more experienced than I who can confirm or deny...?
I´m running NGK R5670-6 in my 383, 10.2:1, MP 284/484 cam.
 
I've never been "impressed" by a sparkum plug. plugs don't make power. engines do. all a plug...any plug can do is spark when the current comes down the wire. i always just get whatever's on sale at wal mart. I've run on the street that way, raced at the track that way. I've run some high nines with wal mart champion plugs that were on clearance for 89 cents each. the only thing fancy plugs like platnium or irridium and the like can do is maybe last a little longer. that's ALL. these companies spend BILLIONS.....lemmie say that again......BILLIONS on marketing and hype to make you think that you cannot live without their "superior" plug and that it will out perform all the others. I've been wrenchin on cars professionally since 1974. the only ONE thing I have seen, witnessed and DONE myself that adds power concerning spark plugs is indexing them. and that is minimal.....but there IS gain to be had there. when you're talking about .100 of a second in a drag race that can be the difference between a win or a loss. you'll have people on here sayin how they feel more power with this plug and that......but honestly, you think anybody wants to say their stuff is "normal" and just like everybody elses junk? fact is a plug is a plug is a plug. always has been always will be. all the rest is just a bunch of frikkin BS. i say run the Champions. why? they were good enough for the factory to put um in 340s 440s and Hemis. that's good enough for me. they are also cheap and readily available. somebody says champions dont run good is full of a load. they had somethin else wrong that they'll never admit to. it wasn't the plugs fault.
 
swedefish said:
I believe I´ve read on the NGK site that for every 70-100 you increase the power you should be 1 step colder on the plugs.
Also read that it´s safer to start with a too cold plug than a too hot..if you´re not sure what to use.
Anyone more experienced than I who can confirm or deny...?
I´m running NGK R5670-6 in my 383, 10.2:1, MP 284/484 cam.
Click to expand...

it's not necessarily the power level. it's the compression ratio. More compression=a colder plug. more compression doesn't always equal more power. and vice versa.
 
Mopar used champions at the factory because they had the contract with them..if any other maker was cheaper they would have put their plugs in,knowing mopar...
 
About the only thing a spark plug does is serve as a ground for an electrical current that is generator elsewhere in the electrical system, it has no moving parts to go bad, no oil to change, no tires to rotate etc etc. Spark plugs is pretty much spark plugs.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I'm gonna echo Adam here and suggest similar advice but not just towards you ''Justain'', but to everyone not directly helping the thread.
Click to expand...

thanks slob, I mean rob.:toothy10:

btw.. it's more like Justincredible=P~'joke'


I think and recommend, at/or below 10.5 comp, to always start out with a standard/stock heat range spark plug.

I agree with most on this topic here, it's just a plug..
BUT since everyone has their preference, so do I=NGK, but really...only cause the color/anodizing of the plug makes it easier to see timing color marks,base ring color and 2 threads heat discoloring-it's just easier to read, but thats it..to me the brand does not really matter, beside iridium plugs I challenge ANYONE here to dyno with diff plug brand of the same spec/heat range.

I hope this make the op's decision simply cut and dry.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top