On the intake side, it looks like incoming air is going to ramp up into the guide. Exhaust, looks like air needs a ladder to climb out and slide down the hill out of the port.
Here we go again
- Thread starter pittsburghracer
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duster 344
Well-Known Member
I’m no expert on head porting. And picture sometimes hard to decipher, over all looks like a lot of potential but I would never bolt them on out of the box the way they are. A lot like everything else now days they’re just kicking them out as fast as they can. Some one not knowing what there looking at and just bolt them on, would spend a lot of money for heads and not gain a whole lot. I’d be interested to see if they flow close to the advertised cfm
Not to be silly but have you lined up head/exhaust/intake/valve cover gaskets to make sure bolt holes are in the right spots? 
Do have a real question though... i saw a video saying how W2 heads are the greatest thing to ever exist and the upgraded exhaust port makes the world a happier place.. if the W2 port is so much better why do aftermarket guys use a stock shaped port?
Do have a real question though... i saw a video saying how W2 heads are the greatest thing to ever exist and the upgraded exhaust port makes the world a happier place.. if the W2 port is so much better why do aftermarket guys use a stock shaped port?
Not to be silly but have you lined up head/exhaust/intake/valve cover gaskets to make sure bolt holes are in the right spots?
Do have a real question though... i saw a video saying how W2 heads are the greatest thing to ever exist and the upgraded exhaust port makes the world a happier place.. if the W2 port is so much better why do aftermarket guys use a stock shaped port?
Edelbrock heads and Speedmaster heads are and have always been built for the street, street strip guys which is smart. They want to pull off their stock exhaust and install them and easily bolt a header on. W2 heads wisely moved the bolt holes out so they had more room to shape a port. But how many sets of used W2 headers do you see out there. I would like to talk to this know it all and have him explain how I can run 9.30’s with Edelbrock heads maybe 9.20’s with Edelbrock heads. It’s not all about flow numbers on the exhaust side.
AHHHHH... that's right.. he did mention the moved exhaust bolt to make the port wider.. i should have known from that.. sorry i'm having a dumber day than normal
AHHHHH... that's right.. he did mention the moved exhaust bolt to make the port wider.. i should have known from that.. sorry i'm having a dumber day than normal
All questions are good questions. We all learn.
Wow not much interest or feedback here.
From my uneducated and untrained eye, I don’t like the look on the underside of the seat, I don’t know the correct terminology for it. Also the exhaust port looks like a hole in a right triangle, doesn’t seem conducive to flow. Feel free to call me a dummy, the contents of this post may well be worth the cost to post.
Ok I think most of you guys see the big issue on the exhaust shortside. If you were here to run your fingers over is what you would feel is basically it’s worse than a 90 degree angle. This would have sounded like a garbage disposal on my flowbench and acted like one too. Before and after pictures of something you could do at home. It’s not done yet but this would work night and day better. This took under 4 minute to do.
Ok you all see the ugly plung cut. Well the pinch as delivered measured .900 and after a 5 minute clean up and putting a nice radius on it now measures .985 the length op the pinch. That’s a lot of area to gain in five minutes. Mine after tubing and kissing the tube measure 1.020-1.030.
psi_duster
Member
It's sad that the China heads actually look better but I bet these will be great when you're done with them. Thanks for the tip on cleaning up the radius in the exhaust port.
Nothing to add but 
fastmerc
Member
OK, first, I missed the second page of replies! Quite the pictures of castings close up!!! So if any of my comments are "outdated" my bad. I can see that there are definitely "some" impediments to flow, that need to go! S
Looks like a set of "you finish" heads..... With no valves, I'd bet $.03 that the intent was for the new owner to finish as needed.
Plunge cuts in the intakes/exhausts look like simply remove the sharp edges from surfacing, and provide a slight "porting" of the ports.
I took a HP engine building class at a JC near here and learned a lot about porting and such and how to do it wrong! Typically the experts were saying that unless you were spinning the moon, porting the entire passage of a port didn't really buy you anything except for making a port that will condense fuel mixture on the walls of the ports! "Leave the bumpy texture" to provide some turbulence to keep the fuel off the walls. If you are port matching, you really only need to go into the port no more than about a half inch!
The other BIG thing about porting below the valve seats was to be careful...... SOMETIMES, that recess under the seat is providing for better flow due to the venturi effect than if you were to cut it all away and smooth it all down........ BUT, you'd need to experiment with the ports and a flow bench to figure out the characteristics of your particular head.
That said, can Edelbrock provide any flow characteristics for these castings????? Any one else?
I can see where cutting the valve guide protrusion into the ports could help a little.....but again, flow bench testing here will tell the tale. Flow results as cast or delivered, would certainly help to know if you "need" to do any more to provide more air at your proposed operational RPM range!
Big pictures always show more boogers...... just don't slide these around on your old metal work bench with all of last weeks project still embedded in the surface......!
Be sure to post some assembly pic's when you start putting it all together! I'd like to see the piston/rods how they will come together with all! Great project!!!
Cheers!
Steve
Looks like a set of "you finish" heads..... With no valves, I'd bet $.03 that the intent was for the new owner to finish as needed.
Plunge cuts in the intakes/exhausts look like simply remove the sharp edges from surfacing, and provide a slight "porting" of the ports.
I took a HP engine building class at a JC near here and learned a lot about porting and such and how to do it wrong! Typically the experts were saying that unless you were spinning the moon, porting the entire passage of a port didn't really buy you anything except for making a port that will condense fuel mixture on the walls of the ports! "Leave the bumpy texture" to provide some turbulence to keep the fuel off the walls. If you are port matching, you really only need to go into the port no more than about a half inch!
The other BIG thing about porting below the valve seats was to be careful...... SOMETIMES, that recess under the seat is providing for better flow due to the venturi effect than if you were to cut it all away and smooth it all down........ BUT, you'd need to experiment with the ports and a flow bench to figure out the characteristics of your particular head.
That said, can Edelbrock provide any flow characteristics for these castings????? Any one else?
I can see where cutting the valve guide protrusion into the ports could help a little.....but again, flow bench testing here will tell the tale. Flow results as cast or delivered, would certainly help to know if you "need" to do any more to provide more air at your proposed operational RPM range!
Big pictures always show more boogers...... just don't slide these around on your old metal work bench with all of last weeks project still embedded in the surface......!
Be sure to post some assembly pic's when you start putting it all together! I'd like to see the piston/rods how they will come together with all! Great project!!!
Cheers!
Steve
PRH
Well-Known Member
The “bare” heads come unfinished.
That means unfinished guides, seats, bowls.
It is not really the same thing as an “assembled” head with the parts taken out.
The first thing I do with the bare heads is fit the guides and cut the seats.
I dont know enough to comment. But Im reading Sir.
fastmerc
Member
OK, how dare I forget "port matching"!
This was a Ford Racing (Edelbrock) head that I matched to a RPM intake for a 331 build. Quite the mismatch going INTO the head! Pulled over 300HP at the rear wheels at a modest 4000ish rpms, a very well mannered street engine. Hoping to do similar for my 340, so this is a good post to see some results hopefully!!!
Apparently my camera broke before I could take pictures of the finished intake port, OR the exhaust ports.....sorry, no pic's there!?? I think my brain broke.....duh! To much aluminium dust....
Steve
This was a Ford Racing (Edelbrock) head that I matched to a RPM intake for a 331 build. Quite the mismatch going INTO the head! Pulled over 300HP at the rear wheels at a modest 4000ish rpms, a very well mannered street engine. Hoping to do similar for my 340, so this is a good post to see some results hopefully!!!
Apparently my camera broke before I could take pictures of the finished intake port, OR the exhaust ports.....sorry, no pic's there!?? I think my brain broke.....duh! To much aluminium dust....
Steve
PRH
Well-Known Member
All assembled RPM heads I’ve ever had here, for any make engine, have had “some” minimal amount of blending in the bowls.
The pinch often have gotten some attention too, but not always.
The E Street heads get no blending.
The pinch often have gotten some attention too, but not always.
The E Street heads get no blending.
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fastmerc
Member
Are there any published flow rates for stock 340 heads of the various castings and valve sizes???
Next would be.... how about mildly worked, ie first half inch into the ports, not really messing with bowls yet....?
Cheers!
Steve
Next would be.... how about mildly worked, ie first half inch into the ports, not really messing with bowls yet....?
Cheers!
Steve
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
A couple pics of the ported SB RPM heads currently on my 360 from about 5 years ago when I first got them back from the shop after porting, seats cut, new valves, springs, hardware. Angles aren't really great for seeing the bowls and I didn't feel like removing the valves to see from that side but I figured I'd post to view as a comparison and maybe get some opinions. Guy who did them (Bret Bowers at Atlas Perf Machine in Longmont, CO) said he felt like they'd barely flow better than stock 340 heads if these hadn't been ported lol. The engine made 286 HP uncorrected at the wheels at 5000' elevation with a 222/226 @ .050", ~.550" lift on 110 LSA hydraulic roller cam with RPM intake, 750 cfm Street Demon carb and Hedman shorty headers going into 2 1/4" downpipes with tight-radius bends to clear steering linkage. Short block is a stock 5.9L Magnum with .027" head gaskets so compression is only about 9:1 and it is hooked to a 904 with a cheap 2600 RPM stall converter. Now here at basically sea level I'd bet it's closer to 350-370 WHP. Also have a set of Doug's D-453 headers I hope to put on at some point that I think will free up a good bit of power.
MidnightSwinger
Well-Known Member
Im sorry man, I ain’t smart enough to articulate my thoughts on this type of stuff. I just saw a lot of sharp angles and what seemed like raw surfaces that could have easily been cleaned up. Watching and learning as always.
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