high water temp issues

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solracmopar

solracmopar

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So I finally installed a decent mechanical water temp gauge. Drove the car in FL traffic today and I'm up there. Like 220-230 up there.

I'm not running a fan shroud because I don't have one. Looking at new ones they run about $169. Wondering if I should spend the cash on a shroud and run my old rad or go for an alluminum rad?
 
You are running warm in stop and go traffic. That is likely an airflow issue.

A shroud and good fan are a better bet than a radiator.
 
A shroud is an absolute must for in town driving no matter what type of radiator your running. Can't comment on whether or not you need a new radiator since you didn't describe your current one but if you were thinking an aluminum radiator by itself will solve the problem without a shroud my guess is I highly doubt it. Remember, air movement is what cools. If your putting in slow traffic your not getting much air flow through the radiator, even if you have a fan.
 
A part by part listing, of your cooling system would help. Running hot in stoplights/traffic,points to no velocity at that speed. Fishy's dead on. Measure your radiator core,hit the junkyards. A 2300 pinto,fit my big block chevelle radiator. Cost: 10 bucks.
 
fishy68 said:
A shroud is an absolute must for in town driving no matter what type of radiator your running. Can't comment on whether or not you need a new radiator since you didn't describe your current one but if you were thinking an aluminum radiator by itself will solve the problem without a shroud my guess is I highly doubt it. Remember, air movement is what cools. If your putting in slow traffic your not getting much air flow through the radiator, even if you have a fan.
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The radiator I'm running now is the original one that came with the car 1972. When I measured it its close to 22" wide by 21.5" top to bottom. The shroud I have is 26". Air flow makes sense. Guess I'm on the hunt for a shroud.
 
What temp are you running going down the highway at 55-60 if your still warm than the schroud wont help at those speeds. A good radiator flush might not hurt.
 
tekslk said:
What temp are you running going down the highway at 55-60 if your still warm than the schroud wont help at those speeds. A good radiator flush might not hurt.
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Problem is I have a solid 3-4 miles of stop lights before I get to the highway and thats where it warms up. Once I get on the highway I'm at about 190 and then it slowly creeps up from there.

I just checked and this is the rad I have: 3574658 1972 A 22" 318 340 Both A/C
 
solracmopar said:
I get to the highway and thats where it warms up. Once I get on the highway I'm at about 190 and then it slowly creeps up from there.

I just checked and this is the rad I have: 3574658 1972 A 22" 318 340 Both A/C
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Heating on the highway is not a shroud problem. Water flow or not enough radiator

Dirty block, heads, radiator. Something with the water pump. T stat not opening.
 
How long have you had the car, and how long have you had the issue?
I just made a fan shroud and it helped a whole lot...
C
 
fishy68 said:
Hope you get a straight one. I ordered one and it was twisted when I got it and I'm sure it didn't happen in shipping. Got stuck paying $28 to ship it back so I could get my purchase price back.:wack:
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I hope alot of things with this Champion rad. Did you end up getting another one?
 
67Dart273 said:
Heating on the highway is not a shroud problem. Water flow or not enough radiator

Dirty block, heads, radiator. Something with the water pump. T stat not opening.
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I thought the same thing so I popped the 160 Tstat out and tested it in a pot of hot water, thing works great. My water pump is brand new as is my motor. Its a fresh build with 200 miles on the motor. I made some improvements like #302 swirl port heads with a ton of head work, Lunati cam, stiffer springs, double roller timing chain, and also installed a 2500 stall.

This is my first time having a mechanical water temp gauge so I'm not used to seeing exactly what my motor is doing. In the past I gauged hot by a certain point on the stock gauge, now I can properly see what temp I'm at.

The radiator in the car is the original stock one so I'm guessing 40 years old? Guys at Champion said to start off with the rad and go from there.
 
solracmopar said:
I thought the same thing so I popped the 160 Tstat out and tested it in a pot of hot water, thing works great. My water pump is brand new as is my motor. Its a fresh build with 200 miles on the motor. I made some improvements like #302 swirl port heads with a ton of head work, Lunati cam, stiffer springs, double roller timing chain, and also installed a 2500 stall.

This is my first time having a mechanical water temp gauge so I'm not used to seeing exactly what my motor is doing. In the past I gauged hot by a certain point on the stock gauge, now I can properly see what temp I'm at.

The radiator in the car is the original stock one so I'm guessing 40 years old? Guys at Champion said to start off with the rad and go from there.
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A 160* thermostat seems low. Is it possible the coolant in the radiator isn't sitting in there long enough before the t stat opens?

Are you using a clutch fan, pulley mounted, or electric?
 
Nobody mentioned this so I will.....What is your timing set at? Initial, all in etc

Post up the specs of your motor. Carb etc too
 
If it cools down on the highway, it's not the radiator.

Air flow at low speeds is your issue. If using a clutch fan, is the clutch in good shape? A shroud will help pull air through the radiator like the fan was designed to do.
 
My guess is the new radiator will help. Running at 190 degrees on the highway seems warm to me. One way to know if it was the rad is to have it checked out by a rad shop - they're not easy to find nowadays.....
 
Get a Chevy HHR fan....probably the best 50 bucks I ever spent on my car. This fully shrouded electric fan pulls a ton of air (over 3000cfm) for cheap....and it fits a 22" radiator perfectly. I just had to do a light trimming to clear the water pump. I got mine through Rockauto.com.
 
Mad Dart said:
Nobody mentioned this so I will.....What is your timing set at? Initial, all in etc

Post up the specs of your motor. Carb etc too
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Mad Dart, motor set up is stock 318 short block, #302 heads, port matched, polished and shaved .30.chamber volume around 54cc. 340 springs, dual roller timing chain. Lunati Voodoo cam duration: 262/268 lift:475/494, eddy rpm intake, eddy 600cfm carb, dougs headers. Running a clutch fan, pulley mounted w/ 7 blade set up.

I have the timing set between 14-18 at idle.

Takes the car about 2-3 miles driving distance to reach 190 degrees. Once it gets up there it does not cool down no matter how much wind blows thru the radiator. I.E. 50-60mph. Buddy of mine thinks there might be junk in the radiator from the fresh motor build (200 miles since build). The radiator is the original one I've had for years.
 
crackedback said:
If it cools down on the highway, it's not the radiator.

Air flow at low speeds is your issue. If using a clutch fan, is the clutch in good shape? A shroud will help pull air through the radiator like the fan was designed to do.
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Crackedback, I'm using a clutch fan, its brand new. Issue happens at all speeds, not just stop lights.
 
I would agree with running and hotter thermostat such is a 195. it allows more time for the coolant in the radiator to dissipate heat
I re read your original post I have not seen whether or not you have a shroud around your fan. A shroud will greatly improve your fans ability to pull air across the surface area of the radiator. I would try the thermostat first its the cheapest and easiest.
 
67Dart273 said:
Heating on the highway is not a shroud problem. Water flow or not enough radiator

Dirty block, heads, radiator. Something with the water pump. T stat not opening.
Click to expand...

I agree. Obviously the engine is fresh so it shouldn't be restricting flow. I think your radiator is the limiting factor here. You will see....

Don't wanna bum you out, but I hope there wasn't any "corn flakes" in that radiator that went into the small coolant holes in your motor......I doubt it, you should be fine.
 
cudavert said:
I agree. Obviously the engine is fresh so it shouldn't be restricting flow. I think your radiator is the limiting factor here. You will see....

Don't wanna bum you out, but I hope there wasn't any "corn flakes" in that radiator that went into the small coolant holes in your motor......I doubt it, you should be fine.
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I've heard of shavings from the machine shop plugging coolant ports in fresh engines
 
cudavert said:
I agree. Obviously the engine is fresh so it shouldn't be restricting flow. I think your radiator is the limiting factor here. You will see....

Don't wanna bum you out, but I hope there wasn't any "corn flakes" in that radiator that went into the small coolant holes in your motor......I doubt it, you should be fine.
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Hopefully your right. Either way the new 3 core Champion rad is on its way. In the meantime I'm planning on a coolant flush to see if anything comes out. Jeff at Ledfoot said it was a good idea before installing the new radiator. Maybe I can save the old one while I'm at it.. We'll see..
 
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