let me know how you make out, im having an issue with my sons 416 Duster, fresh engine with Champion 3 core alum radiator with their shroud and 2 10" fans, car warms up really fast and climbs to 195 went to a cruse night on Monday and it got hotter and hotter the whole way there, got to over 220 ! im at wits end and need to figure out whats going on, it was only a 3 or 4 mile ride and outside temp was around 75 or so
high water temp issues
- Thread starter solracmopar
- Start date
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fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Flushing it is a good idea Solracmopar.. That should get any crud out of the block so it doesn't plug up the new radiator.
cudavert
DARTAHOLIC
There's.....lack of air flow, lack of water flow and undersized radiator. On those giant cubic inch small blocks, I have to wonder that the water jackets and cooling passages, as originally designed, are insufficient for that many cubes.
I'd go with a full-flow oil cooler system as well (with the cooler mounted somewhere OTHER than in front of the radiator!) I did it when I had a built 340 in my A-100 and it dropped a good 20-something degrees off the coolant temps.
I'd go with a full-flow oil cooler system as well (with the cooler mounted somewhere OTHER than in front of the radiator!) I did it when I had a built 340 in my A-100 and it dropped a good 20-something degrees off the coolant temps.
Something else is up with your stroker. For what its worth, my 10 second 410 stroker street car has a small Becool radiator, Chevy HHR fan, and a Milodon mechanical water pump...I can drive in 95° weather without a problem (other than sweating to death).
Some possibilities:
1. Timing is retarded too far (will cause excess heat).
2. Water pump not up to the task. I have this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-16250/overview/make/chrysler
3. Bad thermostat.
4. Air bubble in system.
5. Plugged up block.
6. Crappy fans that don't pull enough air...and yes they should be pulling, not pushing (fans are much more efficient pulling).
I would start by checking the cheap/free things first.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Agreed and I'll add a couple other checks. Verify that the temp gauge itself is reading correctly. I have a good laser temp gun I verify them with and check it at the intake manifold right under the thermostat housing. If you have a polished intake you won't get a good reading but you can put a piece of masking tape over where your testing and then it'll read right. Also check the temp difference between the upper and lower hoses to see if the radiator is cooling the coolant down sufficiently. Never seen anything in writing of how much they should cool it down but mine drops the temp 20-25 degrees. Again, most laser temp guns won't read correctly aimed at a shiny aluminum surface such as the radiator so you either have to put a piece of masking tape on it or go off the hoses themselves. Since your just reading surface temp it'll be less than the actual coolant temp but will give you an idea of how the system is working.
mwls73duster360
Bad as Buddy Holly
I was just reading all this and now I am a little confused. Lol my 360 duster dual core with 1" cores and flex fan has always ran around 195-200. I thought this was OK? I can stop and check fluid without it boiling out on me. Was in stop and go traffic for 2 hours in Portland never got passed 201 and it was like 75-80 out. I'm not running a shroud but I thought around 200 was where LA blocks ran.
younggun2.0
Well-Known Member
I just got my brand new motor going this spring. when i fired it up the first time the water turned a rusty brown instantly. i had all new parts and when i fired it up it flushed all kinds of **** out of the block. i have since completely flushed the system twice and there is still a small amount of crap floating around. I will be flushing it again this weekend. that being said when you have the old radiator out i would pull the thermostat run your garden hose down into the top radiator hose and let it flush out the bottom hose till the water comes out clear. then install the new radiator.
after that your going to need a shroud. no way of getting around it. you need it to make the fan pull air thru the core.
after that your going to need a shroud. no way of getting around it. you need it to make the fan pull air thru the core.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
IMO if it's not going over 200 your fine. Heck some new cars are set up to run at 210-215 but I think that has to do with emissions and fuel economy. I prefer mine not to go over 190 because the engine makes a little more torque and doesn't spark knock on 89 octane. You got extremely lucky you don't need a shroud. Most cars do or they'll run hot in traffic. Being an LA has nothing to do with what the temp runs. The radiator size, fan type/size, water pump capacity, and thermostat all dictate what temp it runs. Most racers set their up to run 160. Some less, some more, but that's an average from what I've seen.
Gator
Mopar or No Car
1. Double check your timing
2. Get a shroud and put back in your 180 degrees therm, SB mopars like to run from 180-195 degrees for optimum performance.
3. Move your fan farther back from the rad to allow for more air flow over a wider area, you'll be surprise how much that helps. I also had a heating issue and once I installed a shroud and moved the fan back about .750 no more heating issues...
2. Get a shroud and put back in your 180 degrees therm, SB mopars like to run from 180-195 degrees for optimum performance.
3. Move your fan farther back from the rad to allow for more air flow over a wider area, you'll be surprise how much that helps. I also had a heating issue and once I installed a shroud and moved the fan back about .750 no more heating issues...
solracmopar
Well-Known Member
Got my Champion radiator a few days ago. First reaction was nice value for the money. Once I started fitting the radiator in I noticed the holes weren't lining up. Even tho I ordered the stock replacement size 22" the Champion brackets were off. Had to take a cutting wheel to the bottom bracket holes in order for everything to fit correctly. I also had to install some 1/8 to 1/4 threaded barbs for the tranny coolant lines. There was also little room between my fan clutch set up and the radiator so it took me a bit to get it all in there.
Drove the car today in traffic and it didn't get above 185-190 vs. my prior temps of 230+ driving in the same traffic scenarios. Did it work? You betcha. I think my stock rad must of had who knows what clogging it up. The new rad is well lets just say "new".
I'm not debating either a shroud, shroud + electric fan set up, or one of those Mopar viscous fan set ups. Has anyone on here messed with those? Here's the link - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4120758
Drove the car today in traffic and it didn't get above 185-190 vs. my prior temps of 230+ driving in the same traffic scenarios. Did it work? You betcha. I think my stock rad must of had who knows what clogging it up. The new rad is well lets just say "new".
I'm not debating either a shroud, shroud + electric fan set up, or one of those Mopar viscous fan set ups. Has anyone on here messed with those? Here's the link - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4120758
solracmopar
Well-Known Member
Here are some pics
Dragonbat13
Well-Known Member
I like the setup. I suppose your radiator was going south.
I would slap an electric fan on it if it was mine. Why? Cause smallblocks with no fan on the front look smoking in my book. The looks are enough for me to justify an electric. And I dont normally worry about the looks department too much.
Looks good.
I would slap an electric fan on it if it was mine. Why? Cause smallblocks with no fan on the front look smoking in my book. The looks are enough for me to justify an electric. And I dont normally worry about the looks department too much.
Looks good.
MoparDaddy
Damn Right I Carry!
Purdy shiny! Glad you got it fixed
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
I might be wrong but I don't believe the Mopar viscous fan is much different from your normal clutch fan like you have on the radiator. Some clutch fans have a thermostatically controlled spring, some don't. My Cuda had a Mopar viscous fan on it when I got it. ran it until I changed the radiator and it wouldn't clear so I had to find a shallower clutch. When comparing them side by side I saw no obvious difference. Viscous is just a fancy way of saying "fluid coupled".
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
There's 2 issues when considering an electric fan.
1. space available. If you'll look at Solracmopar's setup you'll see he barely had room to squeeze the clutch fan in. Most good high perf. electric fans are on the order of 4+ inches thick. On my Cuda I only had 2-3/4" between the water pump and radiator. Could only find a couple lower perf. fans that would fit and I tried the best one I could find and it didn't cool as well as a clutch fan with a shroud.
2. Make sure your electrical system is up to snuff when you install an electric fan or you'll have at least a melted wiring harness, at worse a fire. The fan I tried on my car only pulled 14 amps yet that was enough to melt the factory connector where the fusible link connects. The wiring harness was almost new too, not an old piece of junk. The factory harnesses that directs alternator charging power through the bulkhead to the ammeter then back through the bulkhead to the fusible link then to the battery is a weak system. Too many connections with light duty parts but when these cars were new they didn't have much current draw on them so it was sufficient. I do agree that it looked much better with an electric fan setup and if it would have cooled as well I would have upgraded the wiring like the mod on www.madelectrical.com shows.
solracmopar
Well-Known Member
I fully agree with you Fishy68. I still don't know how I managed to get the stock fan clutch set up to fit. The old radiator was 2 core and this one is 3 so there's even less room than before. I'm going to call Geoff at Ledfoot to see if they sell a shroud that would work with my 7 blade fan. I think that would just about do it. No telling what the car will do when summer officially arrives in central florida. Humidity + Heat can cause triple digit numbers that I'm guessing my car shouldn't be part of anyway.
Drove the car again this morning on my usual route to drop my daughter off at school. What would of normally been a 220 temp at stop lights I was running 175-180.
As far as installing an electrical fan to my stock harness set up, I think I'd rather save it for my end goal which is a vintage air system.
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