Holley 1850 fuel transfer tube seals??

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Well I am now but the seals look more robust so I thought I'd try them, maybe they just won't work on the older 1850 series? The o-rings didn't leak last time so I guess I'll just do it they way I did before.
 
mopar56 said:
Well I am now but the seals look more robust so I thought I'd try them, maybe they just won't work on the older 1850 series? The o-rings didn't leak last time so I guess I'll just do it they way I did before.
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You got me wonderin now if the tubes aren't different lengths on them.
 
Well thats what I was thinking, the Holley kit i got fits a multitude of applications and it came with the seals AND o-rings, i remember I couldn't get the seals to fit the first time but I thought I'd try again, i mean I'm a 210 pound guy and I used all the force I had pushing against that bowl, I honestly thought the tube was going to bend, if you find out I'd like to know but for now the o-rings are in.
 
mopar56 said:
Well thats what I was thinking, the Holley kit i got fits a multitude of applications and it came with the seals AND o-rings, i remember I couldn't get the seals to fit the first time but I thought I'd try again, i mean I'm a 210 pound guy and I used all the force I had pushing against that bowl, I honestly thought the tube was going to bend, if you find out I'd like to know but for now the o-rings are in.
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They almost have to be. I've never had a problem with the cup type seals. I have a QFT 450 on Vixen and that's what's on her carburetor and I've changed them before. Easy peasy. So I bet that's what it is.
 
mopar56 said:
Yes, that is what I did today AND previously when I assembled it and installed it, no fuel leaks at all, Just flooding.
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Flooding is either a needle and seat issue of a bad float.... Bad brass floats are easy to spot, it'll have gas in it... Nitrophyl check the weight compared to a good float

On the needle & seat, unscrew it from the carb, look for debris in the needle & seat, also check the o ring on the , a tiny nick will cause flooding...

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1wildrt , yesterday I pulled both the float valves because I was watching a YouTube video stating that sometimes the o-rings that seal them in the bowl leak and can cause flooding so i started second guessing if I missed one, but they were ok as was the float valve itself, I took both the floats and submerged them in water weighted down for about 5 min then checked against each other for weight and shook them, they both seemed fine, I really feel a float must have either just been hung up or I had the leval wrong. I'm going to give it another go when I have the opportunity on a weather break.
 
When you reinstall the needle & seat assemblies lube the o rings, then screw them in deep enough that the nut barely has anything to grab... That way when you start the engine you'll know the fuel level should be low.... So, with the sight plug out and a screwdriver & 5/8 wrench you can slowly raise the level... If your careful you can do it with the engine running, back the lock screw off slightly so fuel weeps but not so much that it becomes a serious leak... Turn the nut one flat & snug the screw... Let the fuel level stabilize... Repeat till the fuel level is at the point it just trickles from the sight plug hole....
 
1WildRT said:
When you reinstall the needle & seat assemblies lube the o rings, then screw them in deep enough that the nut barely has anything to grab... That way when you start the engine you'll know the fuel level should be low.... So, with the sight plug out and a screwdriver & 5/8 wrench you can slowly raise the level... If your careful you can do it with the engine running, back the lock screw off slightly so fuel weeps but not so much that it becomes a serious leak... Turn the nut one flat & snug the screw... Let the fuel level stabilize... Repeat till the fuel level is at the point it just trickles from the sight plug hole....
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Thankyou, i did watch several videos on this, a couple were from a Holley executive, but what I understand is that the start point is to set them static with the bowl inverted and the float level with the bottom, ( well top actually as it's upside down at this point ) of the bowl, which is what I have done however if I understand you correctly you are suggesting otherwise, doing it your way will there be enough fuel in the bowls for the engine to start and run while I do the adjustment?
 
mopar56 said:
Thankyou, i did watch several videos on this, a couple were from a Holley executive, but what I understand is that the start point is to set them static with the bowl inverted and the float level with the bottom, ( well top actually as it's upside down at this point ) of the bowl, which is what I have done however if I understand you correctly you are suggesting otherwise, doing it your way will there be enough fuel in the bowls for the engine to start and run while I do the adjustment?
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If your pulling the bowl off then yes, flip it and look at the float, however I tend to intentionally set it a touch low so I know I need to rise the level when the engine is running....

The other method is when you leave the bowl attached to the carb and just pull the needle/seat....

Either way if you know you have the float level set to low and it's still flooding you need to take a close look at other possible causes...
 
1WildRT said:
When you reinstall the needle & seat assemblies lube the o rings, then screw them in deep enough that the nut barely has anything to grab... That way when you start the engine you'll know the fuel level should be low.... So, with the sight plug out and a screwdriver & 5/8 wrench you can slowly raise the level... If your careful you can do it with the engine running, back the lock screw off slightly so fuel weeps but not so much that it becomes a serious leak... Turn the nut one flat & snug the screw... Let the fuel level stabilize... Repeat till the fuel level is at the point it just trickles from the sight plug hole....
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You said lube.
 
Beavis & Butthead... The ultimate stupid childish humor.... Man I loved that show.... :lol:
 
RustyRatRod said:
You got me wonderin now if the tubes aren't different lengths on them.
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They are...the tube on certain Holleys is too long to fit with the seals...you have to use the o-rings...

...and yes, the o-rings on the needle-seat assembly need to be replaced if hard...will cause flooding no matter how far you screw the assembly in...just went through this on several Holley's lately.
 
65Val said:
They are...the tube on certain Holleys is too long to fit with the seals...you have to use the o-rings...

...and yes, the o-rings on the needle-seat assembly need to be replaced if hard...will cause flooding no matter how far you screw the assembly in...just went through this on several Holley's lately.
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And there you have it! Glad I stopped pushing, lol thanks for the info!
 
Not really because it has a ridge at each end about 3/8 inch in, maybe could replicate with a double flare tool but I don't know how a aluminum tube would react, I'll just stick with the orings.
 
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