Holley EFI— start but not run
- Thread starter Taxmanth
- Start date
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tanis4457
Well-Known Member
Holley sniper?
When you mean won't run, how long does it run? What tach source are you using?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Does it fire for a brief second and immediately stop? What are you using for ignition, and have you eliminated the ballast resistor?
What have you done to troubleshoot this? You tried simply giving it some throttle?
What procedure did you follow for setup? You can download all the literature from the Holley site
What have you done to troubleshoot this? You tried simply giving it some throttle?
What procedure did you follow for setup? You can download all the literature from the Holley site
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Make sure that the wire that senses the ignition on is staying hot during cranking as well as when you let off of the start position. I know that there is a "crank" wire and "run" wire on the bulkhead connector. The crank wire supplied 12 volts directly to the the coil + went cranking and the run wire would supply voltage to the ballast resistor and the ballast resistor would supply a lower "run" voltage to the coil after letting off of the cranking position of the ignition switch (this protects the coil). Typically you would have to connect both of those wires together and use that as the ignition on sense for your fuel injection system. Ask me how I know this
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superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
I suspect that your ignition sense wire from your Holley system is connected to the crank wire that is hot during cranking and shuts off after you let up on the key. Connect the crank and run wires together and all should be good.
MomsDuster
Well-Known Member
That’s where I would start.
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Had the same thing happen with my Fitech
MomsDuster
Well-Known Member
I remember researching all the posts here (your posts) and FB as well as the web for a couple years before I was ready to install my FiTech. So when I did finally start mine it fired and ran from the get go. Thanks for all your posts, big help for sure!
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Happy to help I get plenty of help from here as well.I remember researching all the posts here (your posts) and FB as well as the web for a couple years before I was ready to install my FiTech. So when I did finally start mine it fired and ran from the get go. Thanks for all your posts, big help for sure!
No it’s a dominator.
Like it starts and the second I let go of the starter switch it dies. So like1-2 seconds.
Square waive, cd box. No timing control. There is RPM in the Holley dash. Revs to like. 250-300 rpm to start.
Yes dies as soon as I let go of the start button.
Had a Mallory dist and a 6al msd box. Ballast is long gone.
Messed with all the settings for the fuel tables. After start enrichment, after start delay. Base fuel tables. And even opening the throttle blades more and more.
Followed to Holley EFI instillation and set up guides to a T. It says to add fuel to base table. And open blades more. I get to a point of 25 lbs per hour of fuel and blades like 1/4 open and I’m like ... no way does it need that much.
Yupp the directions have you make sure you have 12v cranking. Mine is hard wired to the battery side of the shutdown relay. So it has 12v all the time.
Naw mine are on the battery. On the shutdown relay. 12v all the time unless you pull the cutoff switch.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
OK did you make sure the "small red" (red white?? forgot) swtiched by ignition is actually getting power in the "run" position.
You have an electronic tach? Watch it as it runs and dies. You can get a clue if it is getting power/ ignition triggers
You have an electronic tach? Watch it as it runs and dies. You can get a clue if it is getting power/ ignition triggers
Yea she’s getting power. I’ve seen 3,000 rpm.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
What I mean is, watch it when it dies. If the tach drops right to zero quick, you are losing your tach trigger. If it falls "with" engine RPM, then something else. Might give you a clue where to look
turbodart68
Well-Known Member
I posted a suggestion on your build thread. If you want I can talk with you on the phone and see if we can figure it out. Also I will need you to email me your current tune and see if the parameters are set correctly.
Ooh yea I see. Yea it dies die with rpm. I even made a data log of it and nothing stuck out. Rpm fuel px and batt volts all increase when it starts and it all falls when it dies.
Only thing that looked different is the afr from the O2 sensor never comes on.
Awesome!!!! Because this thing is kicking my ***! What the email!
R u running out of fuel? Pump good? Pump running while the motor runs? Kim
Lol yupp all sanity checks were completed.
Yea I did all the dummy checks. Nothing there. I don’t have a IAC. It’s a big and ugly on a 8/71. No room for one really.
Holley said I had to use a 3bar built base map. It was not good enough that I used a map and changed the sensor to a 3bar. Basically, changing the sensor in the computer, it changes the values of the Y axis on the map, but, does not change the values IN the map.
So I changed it to the 383 30psi base map. And after the third start attempt it started. But revved to 4,000 ( where I have the msd set to limit the revvs ) and stayed there.
I have no mufflers. So when it hit and went max power... I panicked ran to the back of the car and hit the kill switch.
Data logger said it took me about 4.5 seconds. From starting to killing it.
I was happy it ran but.... not like that.
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